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A city built on seafood and rice, Charleston remains focused on its abundance of local fish and produce, especially as its restaurant scene continues to boom. This once sleepy Southern town is now an international dining destination.

With lots of locally brewed beers and bartenders famous for their finely concocted cocktails on every corner, rooftop lounges, candlelit bistros, and deliciously divey bars, you’ll never be far from a drink in Charleston.

Okay, some of these restaurants are technically still in Charleston, but what they have in common is food that merits a trip outside the well-trodden tourist area. Get there however you can, but don’t miss the extraordinary things—soul food, Chinese food, barbecue, French-accented local, whatever!—being cooked up in these remarkable South Carolina kitchens.

Food-lovers and chefs flock to Charleston and many limit their visits to the dining rooms of the latest thing, the just-minted award-winners, but locals (and regulars to town) know that the true taste of Charleston can be found in restaurants that cook from old recipes, making dishes from memories of hot nights, small kitchens, and big flavor.

Eating oysters in Charleston can be a delicate affair, of course, with open shells served on beds of ice with lemon wedges, but it’s more likely that you’ll be served up a cluster of steamed oysters, pried open in front of you, ready for the slurping. Find the refined—and the local Lowcountry—bivalves at our selection of great restaurants for oysters.

At this Charleston hit, James Beard Award–winning chef Sean Brock reinterprets traditional Southern dishes with a steadfast commitment to local and regional ingredients—the restaurant even has its own garden. Constantly changing, the menu is filled with inventive new takes on Southern cuisine, such as pig’s ear lettuce wraps done up “buffalo” or “Kentukyaki” style.

Don’t miss the Carolina Grouper—it’s one of the most beautiful dishes at this establishment, and a regional classic you have to try while visiting Charleston.

Note that the restaurant also has locations in Nashville, TN and Savannah, GA.

Restaurateur Brooks Reitz built his name with this chicken-and-oyster joint that feels old-school despite its carefully crafted ambiance. On a first visit, it’s sinful not to order the perfectly salted, crispy/juicy fried chicken amalgam shellacked with a glaze of Old Bay and cayenne suspended in melted lard. That necessitates a second visit to gorge on the poached char-grilled lobster and sausage, or the Leon’s Fish Fry, a platter of shrimp, oysters and catfish. Leon’s was the first to open way-Upper King, now the restaurant hotbed, and it’s held onto its cool status thanks to its thoughtful buildout in a restored auto body shop, retaining the exposed rafters and a rollup garage door that opens to a patio out front.

The Thoroughbred Club is in the lobby of Charleston Place hotel, right in the middle of downtown Charleston. They serve up classic cocktails (try their gussied-up negroni) and also have a great tea service, with live music every afternoon and evening.

Just across the Ashley River from the Charleston Peninsula, Charles Towne Landing marks the site of the forerunner to Charleston, Charles Towne. Settlers from Barbados founded the town in 1670, though after ten years—and a series of attacks by French, Spanish, Native Americans and pirates—they wisely decided to move to the easier-to-defend Charleston peninsula and start over. A recreation of a 17th-century trip, the Adventure, and replica of a colonial home provide insights into life in the earliest years of colonial America.

With its Spanish moss-draped oak trees and beautiful stucco buildings, the College of Charleston‘s campus is long on atmosphere and makes a great place for a stroll. Randolph Hall, a magnificent edifice built in 1828 and one of the six college buildings on the register of National Historic Landmarks, has appeared in movies from The Patriot to Dear John, and in the Civil War miniseries North and South. Also of note, the President’s House, once the parsonage of St. Philip’s Church, is the oldest building on campus.

Once the center of commerce in Charleston, the City Market is now the heart of tourism. Although its location near the cruise terminal can make it feel like a kitschy open-air market in the Caribbean, the tackiness is part of its charm. Yes, you’ll find Christmas ornaments painted with Rainbow Row and enough cutely packaged pralines to give you a stomachache, but you’ll also see Gullah artisans weaving the finest examples of sweetgrass baskets available. Peak season brings 140 different merchants, and weekends include live music and food vendors. The market’s a requisite stop for any visitor and a one-stop gift shop for loved ones back home.

The largest luxury hotel in the city, the Charleston Place takes up a full city block with entrances on King and Meeting streets; the latter leads to the grand lobby, with its imperial open-arm staircase, 12-foot crystal chandelier, and Italian marble floors. Its 433 large guest rooms have old-fashioned Southern details like mahogany and damask furnishings. The hotel’s lower level houses fine-dining restaurant Charleston Grill, an attractive hotel bar, a large indoor saltwater pool with a retractable glass roof, and a shopping arcade with designer stores. The hotel recently began a $150 million renovation but will remain open as the property is upgraded from stem to stern.

The Gin Joint opened in 2010 and was Charleston‘s first real dedicated craft cocktail spot. Five years later, it’s still going strong with its creative drinks menu (including a “bartender’s choice” option for the patron who wants a surprise) and great bites, from gourmet soft pretzels to “cornbread and milk” for dessert.

With its pressed tin ceilings, exposed brick walls, and extensive cocktail menu, The Belmont could easily be mistaken for a bar in Brooklyn. But the laid-back vibe is pure Lowcountry. The Belmont is one of Charleston‘s first craft cocktail bars, and it’s still one of the best. No reservations.

Waterfront Park runs a picturesque half-mile along the Cooper River, from an exuberant fountain at its north end (near the cruise ship terminal), to North Adgers Wharf at its southern border. There is much to recommend a stop in this small eight-acre space: a great path for running or strolling with expansive views of ships moving in and out of the harbor; a fountain topped with a pineapple sculpture that splashes water into a small wading pool where children are permitted to play; and, also welcome on hot Charleston afternoons, a tree-shaded promenade lined with benches for those in search of a sea breeze.