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Everyday Universal Experiences: Audrey Scott and Dan Noll, Uncornered Market

Chris Colin experiences a Caribbean paradise from both sides of a resort’s walls.

Why we love it: A secluded safari camp offering Old World luxury and connections to the local community

The Highlights:

• An ideal location for witnessing the Big Five and Kenya’s famous wildebeest migrations
• Classic safari style that recalls Out of Africa
• Access to bush walks, hot air balloon safaris, community excursions, and other unique activities

The Review:
Romantic and luxurious, this tented camp transports guests to the Kenyan safaris of the 1920s and 30s. On the edge of the gorgeous Masai Mara, the secluded property was completely renovated in 2018 and now comprises two camps, each with nine tented suites featuring polished wooden floors, en-suite bathrooms with indoor and outdoor showers, and copper bathtubs with views of the night sky. Classically elegant, the tents also come with private wooden verandas overlooking the vast, game-filled plains; personal butlers who attend to every whim; and thoughtful details like handcrafted artifacts, map-inspired wallpaper, yoga mats, and a butler hatch for delivering morning coffee or tea.

Elsewhere on site are two swimming pools; a common sitting area outfitted with leather Chesterfield sofas and fine antiques; a state-of-the-art gym with views of the Mara; a massage room; a gift shop stocked with local handicrafts; and a stylish bar for Kenyan coffee and top-shelf gin. Of course, guests are really here to see the Mara’s magnificent wildlife, and while they can spot several animals on site, they also enjoy twice-daily game drives, as well as night excursions and bush walks (permitted because the lodge is on a private concession). Additionally, guests have access to breakfast and sundowners in the bush, Maasai talks and fireside dances (much of the staff is from the local Maasai tribe), the educational WILDChild program for kids, and visits to nearby schools or villages for an authentic look at life in the African bush.

If you only have time to shop one place while in Cape Town, make it the Watershed market on the V&A Waterfront. A magnet for, well, virtually everything, the stalls and shops feature all the classic South African goods, from gorgeous green malachite bowls and bracelets to souvenirs made of springbok hide, recycled bottle caps, and even pressed protea flowers. There are also outposts of beloved local brands like Skoon (for sustainable beauty products), plus art (both affordable and aspirational), East African kitenge fabrics fashioned into simple Western styles, adorable baby clothes, and hand-painted leather clutches that are guaranteed to get compliments no matter where in the world you take them.

The winelands of the Western Cape offer an assembly of reds, whites, and bubblies unlike anywhere else in the country. In fact, thanks to the region and its ideal growing conditions, South Africa is now the ninth-largest wine producer in the world. Here, vines grow deep in ancient soil, moisture from the Atlantic Ocean sweeps through the valleys, and historic farms with whitewashed, Cape Dutch–style buildings dot the mountainous landscape. Time your visit to annual festivities like harvest season (late January through mid-March) and Bastille Day (July).

There’s a really good selection of vegetarian options on most menus at Nairobi restaurants due to the large population of Indian vegetarians living in Kenya. While the only completely vegetarian restaurant is Chowpaty—which serves utterly delicious Indian food—each of the other restaurants on this list offers some of the best veggie fare in town. Expect freshly filled wraps, inventive salads, and tasty pizzas, often served in a fun and funky rooftop location.

Cairo Beyond the Headlines

Making a new luxury lodge in Africa stand out is challenging, but Xigera Safari Lodge, on the Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana, hits all the high notes as the shiniest new offering in a rising African destination. Run by the Travel Corporation’s Tollman family, the sustainably built lodge has design inspired by the Okavango Delta spearheaded by Toni Tollman, director of design, and the first Tata Harper spa (known for nontoxic and organic products) in Africa. Each of the 12 suites—including one two-bedroom family suite—and public areas will feature artwork by leading African artists. The entire property will sit on two small islands, floating slightly above lily-filled lagoons. And the Tollmans really do take sustainability seriously—they built the Xigera Energy Centre to meet more than 95 percent of their energy needs. The Travel Corporation, today with 42 travel brands, including Red Carnation and Contiki, started in Africa, and it has been the Tollmans’ lifelong dream to open this lodge—a full-circle coming home story for the family and brand. International air travel will open to Botswana as of December 1, and travelers must present a negative COVID test taken within three days of arrival.

Passionate Mexico City foodies are rediscovering and reviving Mexico’s rural culinary delights.

Palermo, Sicily’s capital, is a marvelously jumbled, crumbling blend of old and new—a canvas upon which the region’s complex and ever-shifting history has been painted. Over the centuries, the port of Palermo was controlled by forces from the far corners—from Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans, to Arabs from North Africa, and then Normans from France, who oversaw a renaissance during which many of Palermo’s iconic landmarks and modern tourist attractions were built.

To see some of the vestiges of ancient empires, take a day trip from Palermo to the Valley of the Temples at Agrigento, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its Greek and Roman ruins, including the Temple of Concordia, remain wonderfully intact. Within the city itself, explore the attractions in historic neighborhoods such as the Arab district of La Kalsa, home to the finery-filled Palazzo Mirto. The Quattro Canti (Four Corners) lies in the heart of the old city, with Piazza Pretoria on the corner. From there it’s only a short distance to Palermo’s Norman Palace, another UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Palermo’s star attractions, which houses the Palatine Chapel, famous for its intricate mosaics.

Palermo is also a perfect jumping-off point for sightseeing excursions to the idyllic beaches of Mondello, the medieval coastal town of Cefalù and the mountain village of Monreale, which is known for its exceptional Norman cathedral.

Hemingways is a new hotel in Karen, which is sort of the equivalent of Atlanta’s Buckhead in Nairobi. It is near the Wilson airport, where so many of the domestic Kenya flights fly out. Traffic is a huge issue in Nairobi and cars creep both by day and night, so being in this area puts you near many of the best restaurants and shops like Anna Trzebinski’ s studio. The Giraffe Manor and the Sheddrick orphanage, where one can adopt a baby elephant, are also nearby.


If you arrange your trip to Kenya with Betty Jo, she can arrange upgrades at Hemingway’s, private visits to the elephant orphanage and Trzbenski’s studio, as well as private local drivers and drinks with a local Kenyan personality. “I can basically do whatever anyone wants,” says Betty Jo. “All bespoke.” Contact her at [email protected].

Diani Beach is a 25km strip of pale, sugary sands backed by the cerulean Indian Ocean. As one of the more developed towns on the Kenyan coast, there’s a great variety of restaurants, cafés, bars and shops here. Also on offer are activities from horse riding to kite-surfing and tours of the ancient Kaya Forest. Popular haunts in Diani include the Forty Thieves Beach Bar - renowned for their fun beach parties and tasty pizzas, as well as Ali Barbour’s restaurant – set inside a candle-lit cave which opens out onto the starry night’s sky above. However you choose to spend your time in this idyllic costal location, one thing is for sure: as the sun sets, castling a golden glitter on the sea below, and the beach-front restaurants lay flickering lanterns on the sand, there are few other places in the world you will want to be.

Surrounded by bold artwork inside and magnificent ocean views outside, guests are never quite sure where to direct their gaze when they arrive at Ellerman House. A stay here is a bit like visiting an elegant and attentive friend, starting with the complimentary airport pickup straight through all the thoughtful, personalized touches (guests might find a bottle of their favorite vodka already stocked in their room). The hotel owner is a well-known aficionado of South African art, and his private collection graces the walls of the guestrooms and public spaces. True art fans should be sure to visit the on-site gallery to view masterpieces by Louis Maqhubela, Wayne Barker, and Angus Taylor. If it’s not occupied, also sneak a peek at the breathtaking wine gallery, which features a wall made of soil from the Cape Winelands and a spiral-shaped wine rack modeled after a corkscrew.

Sitting on the edge of a cliff, this luxuriously appointed hotel makes for one of the best spots in Cape Town for a sundowner. Have a cocktail on the terrace while watching the fiery African sun meet the tumultuous Atlantic waves.

The new crown jewel of the Cape Town hotel scene, The Silo is housed in an old grain elevator, perched above 42 cement silos on the V&A Waterfront. The silos, which extend outward below the hotel, are home to the world-class Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art, opened in September 2017. Inside the hotel, owner Liz Biden seamlessly blends her penchant for bold colors and animal prints with some of the best in contemporary African art. The 28 guest rooms feature handmade headboards and Egyptian crystal chandeliers; concave, floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the city or harbor; and deep-soaking tubs in the bathroom.

On the sixth floor, you’ll find the concierge (Hoon Kim, one of only 12 South Africans to hold the coveted Crossed Keys—a distinction from the prestigious hotel concierge association Les Clefs d’Or), the Granary Café, the Willaston Bar, and several private meeting rooms. Also on-site is a spa, gym, and rooftop infinity pool and lounge with views of Table Mountain. If you’re visiting over New Year’s, head to the rooftop—or book a west-facing room—for spectacular views of the V&A Waterfront fireworks.

The Singita Mara River Tented Camp sits amidst the 98,000 acres of northern Tanzania’s Lamai. It is one of the few permanent sites for travelers in this triangle of land sandwiched between the Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya and the Mara River in the south. Singita, however, still mimics the adventurous vibe of a mobile safari: Its tents are outfitted with everyday African objects that have been reimagined by local craftspeople. For example, decorative wire baskets mimic the shape and design of the ones traditionally used for sorting grain, and textiles with Maasai-inspired patterns in red, black, and blue add interest to the predominantly neutral interiors. And everything, from the pool pump to the cordless hair dryers, runs on the latest renewable-energy technology (the camp is completely off the grid).