Search results for

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

The internationally inspired fare (Asian and Italian, mostly) at Oasis Ocean Club is good, but most guests patronize this spot for its enviable views and its lively atmosphere. Sitting right on the waterfront, the two-level restaurant looks out onto the bay and truly is one step from the beach. Live music and an exceptionally friendly staff draw repeat visitors.

As you enter Barcelona‘s famous Mercat de Sant Josep de La Boqueria from La Rambla, one of the first stalls you encounter is Tocineria Marcos, purveyors of Iberico ham and a stunning array of other cured, cooked, and fresh meats. It’s just one of the dazzling displays of delicacies in this, the most famous of Barcelona‘s 40 or so food markets. (Another favorite, and slightly less touristed, is the beautifully remodeled Mercat de Santa Caterina, short walk away.) La Boqueria dates back to 1217; a pig market was conducted here starting in 1470; and the current metal roof was built in 1914. There’s no better place to shop for a taste of Catalan culture.

Set along the sacred Ayung River, Four Seasons Resort at Sayan is a tropical paradise shrouded in giant palms and ferns. Designed by John Heah, the property was built and decorated using regional materials almost exclusively, from shells and coconuts to coveted ikat fabrics, giving guests an authentic Balinese experience just 15 minutes from Ubud. A serene lotus pond sits on the rooftop of the resort’s main building, and teakwood villas offer views of rice terraces and the longest river in Bali. Indonesian cooking classes, ancient wellness rituals, and plantings with local rice farmers are just some of the ways guests can connect with the local culture; the rest can be found in Ubud, where vibrant markets, temples, and museums counterbalance the hotel’s tranquil dining and wellness journeys.

A 1901 landmark in Hanoi’s French Quarter, the colonial-style Sofitel Legend Metropole has long been a celebrity magnet, welcoming presidents, ambassadors, and literary and cinematic royalty into its marble lobby. Somerset Maugham and Graham Greene both wrote books here (The Gentleman in the Parlour and The Quiet American, respectively); Charlie Chaplin and Paulette Goddard celebrated their honeymoon at the property; and Jane Fonda and Joan Baez took to the bomb shelter beneath the hotel during air raids (book the complementary Path of History Tour, held every day at 5 and 6 p.m., for a chance to see where they hid out).

The 364 guest rooms are divided between two wings: The historic Metropole section has decor shaped by French architecture and Vietnamese culture (think wood floors, louver windows, bird-cage lampshades, and porcelain light fixtures); the newer wing, opened in 1996 just across the traffic circle from the Opera House, has a strong Neoclassical edge with rooms in dramatic red, black, and white. With its green awning, filigree ironwork, and outdoor wood-deck seating, La Terrasse has the feel of a Parisian café, while Le Beaulieu restaurant serves classic French fare and a decadent Sunday brunch. Spices Garden showcases Vietnamese flavors, and three drinking dens—sleek Angelina, gentlemanly Le Club Bar, and poolside Bamboo Bar—appeal to every kind of spirits lover. Between the central courtyard garden and the pool sit the SoFit gym and Le Spa, with eight rooms for soothing East-meets-West treatments.

Pidgin may be known for their deceptively simple East-meets-West Asian-inspired menu with a decidedly French edge, but their cocktails are all kinds of fantastic too, and in a casual but cool spot like this, it’s most fun to combine the two. Try their addictive chicken wings finished with a gochujang-based BBQ sauce with a bourbon-based Van Horne, and the plate-lickingly wonderful smoked taramasalata with an onsen egg with their much-loved carbonated sake and gin-based Mary Ellen Smith. For dessert? Try the beautiful watermelon-infused tequila One Eye Samurai as it comes served with a spoon of silky granita.

Talk about first impressions: Carved sandstone elephants welcome guests into a two-story chandeliered lobby at this palace-style hotel. Attentive service starts at check-in, with gifts of bindis and fresh jasmine necklaces. At 550-square-feet or larger, rooms are palatial themselves, and richly decorated with oriental carpets, jacquards, and hand-embroidered brocades. Those on higher floors offer panoramic city views, but many visitors choose spaces overlooking the internal courtyard or expansive garden (and away from a 16-lane highway) for a sense of calm. The hotel’s Edwardian-inspired bar draws locals and guests alike with its 25-page whiskey and scotch menu, as does a rooftop pool with stunning vistas over New Delhi’s urban landscape. Unique amenities include an on-call astrologer and, for women travelers, the option of an all-female service staff, including butler, gym instructors, and private city guides.

Few things are gratis in Amsterdam, where you’ll probably pay for your own meal even on a romantic date. But Seasons restaurant gives new meaning to “going Dutch” with a two-for-one Early Bird Special. Set on a pretty side-street off the Herengracht, the cozy bistro is in the heart of the canal belt, near Amsterdam’s Jordaan. The menu features international cuisine, with fare like Indian Chicken Tikka Masala, Asian-inspired Miso Salmon, rack of lamb with mint pesto sauce, and an “inside-out” Beef Wellington. Even Holland is represented in the culinary tour, with a thick pea soup starter. The “buy one get one free” special is offered Monday–Thursday, 5–6pm and Friday–Sunday, 4–6pm. In addition to lowering your bill, it ensures you’ll be visiting when the restaurant is at its romantic best, before the dinner crowd arrives en masse around 8pm. Reservations are required for the Early Bird Special. Reserve online and arrive 15 minutes early to take advantage of it.

Aguas Calientes is packed with restaurants catering to tourists: the offerings are usually very similar, and the prices are often too high for the quality of the food. The Tree House, however, is worth a visit. This restaurant is known for using traditional and organic ingredients to fuse local flavors with an Asian and Italian influence. Imagine grilled alpaca served with a traditional Andean potato and regional cheese pie and organic salad, or a quinoa risotto topped with lamb meat in a reduction of Andean corn beer and cilantro. For around 40 PEN, you can buy a lunch box to take with you up to Machu Picchu.

An instant Amsterdam hotspot when it opened on Rozengracht in spring 2015, Salmuera blends flavors from many Latin countries, fusing Mexican and South American favorites as its predecessor did with Asian fare. Set in the historic building that was the original Bols Distillery, most recently occupied by Chow, the lively bistro offers lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, all featuring grilled meats and seafood, ceviches, empanadas and other specialties of Mexico, Argentina and Peru. Named after the tangy brine that flavors and tenderizes meats in Argentina, Salmuera boasts a rustic charcoal asado grill, open kitchen, and upper and lower level dining areas. Whole suckling pigs roasting over an open charcoal fire, lots of dark wood, a bar with counter seating, and flickering candles add a gezellig vibe. When the weather cooperates, the restaurant’s vine-laced terrace is a great spot for al fresco dining and watching the passing scene on Rozengracht in the trendy Jordaan. Come for a romantic dinner or cocktails and “bites” like delectable Latin cheese fingers stuffed with melted Tres Leches cheese made with cow, goat and sheep’s milk; meat empanadas; Argentinean charcuterie and a street food platter featuring spicy chicken wings marinated in coffee and chipotle, Argentinean sausage roll, Peruvian potato tart, guacamole and an array of dipping sauces.

Arguably the most luxurious yoga resort in Bali, Como Shambhala has 30 rooms, suites, and villas set on 23 acres of jungle-covered riverbank near Ubud, each with its own butler and infinity pool. Yoga programs led by visiting masters such as Rodney Yee are held throughout the year and typically include five hours of daily practice over five days. The spa offers Balinese and Ayurvedic treatments, and off-site activities range from jungle treks to visits to Ubud’s famous temples.

With Indonesian names that translate to earthy concepts like “wind song” or “forest in the mist,” the terracotta and thatched-roof residences at the 22-acre Como Shambhala Estate encourage quiet reflection. They jut from the hillsides and line the Ayung riverbed, offering refuge from the frenetic scene nearby in Ubud.

Most people come here as part of a yoga or health retreat, and everything—from the dining experiences to the custom health programs—is designed to guide guests toward reaching their wellness goals with help from a cadre of resident experts, including a dietician, Ayurvedic doctor, reflexologist, and an Oriental medicine specialist, as well as fitness, yoga, Pilates, and qigong instructors. But it’s not all work. After a day of rugged outdoor adventure—the resort can arrange for hiking, biking, and paddleboarding down the Ayung—retire to your private spring-water infinity pool and meditate on the events yet to come.

Step through a flower shop and into this swanky bar in the buzzing Gangnam area and you’ll forget you’re in a major Asian capital city—you’ll think you’ve fallen down a rabbit hole and ended up in an English country manor. With dark wood accents, chandeliers and tufted footstools, you’ll wish you had a tweed hat and a pipe, but what you can have is a fine scotch or a gin and tonic to occupy your hands. Choose a drink from the signature cocktail list, which are served in whimsical glasses, then press a button which makes another drink magically appear. It it’s a whimsical, eclectic evening you’re after, it’s time to introduce yourself to Alice. 47, Dosandaero 55-gil, Gangnam-gu

Attached to the University of Georgia Lamar Dodd School of Art, the Georgia Museum of Art was founded in 1948. It became the state’s official art museum in 1982 and has been a pillar in the local arts community ever since. The permanent collection features works of American, European and Asian art. There’s a gallery of just Italian Renaissance and another of folk artists like Georgian Howard Finster. They often feature student works as well. Best of all, it’s free to visit.

You’re planning a visit to Sonoma. Where will you stay? An inn? Typical hotel room? B & B? I have a recent find in Sonoma wine country that you might not have considered: Graton Hotel Resort & Casino. Even if your adrenaline isn’t primarily sparked by gaming, here are some reasons to stay that will open your eyes. And you just might want to play a hand of Black Jack while you are there. First it is right in Sonoma. It’s classy, clean, new and has 200 spacious, bright, stylish hotel rooms and suites. The hotel part of the resort is completely separate from the casino section with valet service and a serene waterfall feature to welcome you. The expansive lobby, beautifully decorated with wood and stone, original artwork and bright custom-loomed carpets, rivals any luxury resort hotel. The materials and color palette were specifically chosen by the Tribal Chairman of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria, Mr. Greg Sarris.“ I wanted it to be opulent, but to reflect the colors of wine country.” he says. The property is near the wonderful little Santa Rosa Airport and transport from the property can be arranged, or is an easy cab ride away, or by car from SFO in 40 minutes. The first-class Spa & Salon At Graton would be enough reason for me to stay here. This full service oasis is staffed by caring professionals and caters to both men and women. The Privai Hydra Facial which combines cleansing, exfoliation and hydration is a non-laser skin resurfacing treatment. I can attest to the exceptional results. The salon has a Walkabout Foot Love service that leaves you with soft feet and beautiful toes either with or without polish. Dining options here either come from existing local hot spots or are concepts created exclusively for Graton Resort & Casino. An Italian restaurant, by San Francisco favorite Tony’s of North Beach serves delicious artisan pizza and Italian classics. Boathouse Asian Eatery serves favorites like sushi, sashimi, Steamed Whole Fish, Chinese Duck Noodle Soup, and Beef Chow Fun made with tenderloin steak and wide flat Fun noodles. For a modern take on Asian-fusion the Jalapeno Poppers with spicy crab, cream cheese, sriracha and unagi sauce are divine. The ubiquitous casino steak house has been re-imagined here as the casually elegant 630 Park Steakhouse. Go “all in” and start with the Seafood Jumbo Jackpot a multi-tiered offering of Maine lobster, shrimp, oysters, Dungeness Crab, and crab claws. Double-down with any of their tender, aged steak cuts or the Ahi Tuna Steak, just seared on the outside and sliced for you. Don’t miss the sides like Creamed Corn (this one is special) Classic Tater Tots or creamed Spinach. There is a ballrooom and event center in a separate building with state of the art sound and lighting in a space that can be configured for a small or large event. Come for a show featuring top talent like Patti LaBelle, Art Garfunkel or Kathy Griffin. The pool area is gorgeous, reminiscent of Miami with its sun lounges and private cabanas upholstered in an eye-popping orange. “Cabo lounges” sit right in the pool so all you have to do is lie down, soak up the sun and trail your hands or feet in the water. And yes there is a full-service pool bar which also makes for a romantic spot at night when the glowing fire pits are lit up under the Sonoma stars.

If Mandapa, “temple” in Sanskrit, feels more like a community than a hotel, that’s because it is. The resort occupies 24 green acres on a property previously owned by a group of neighboring families, who retain access to the land and its on-site temple. As a result, it maintains three acres of rice paddies and a traditional rice barn on stilts, and the villagers bring daily offerings to the temple, giving Mandapa a strong connection to local culture.




The hotel’s open-air lobby sits 300 feet above the Ayung River valley, overlooking 35 hillside suites with views of the jungle and rice paddies and 25 villas along the flowing river. The suites are furnished with traditional Balinese pieces and artwork and stand-alone soaking tubs, while the high-ceilinged villas, decorated with vividly colored botanical panels, have large pools and separate master suites.





Everywhere, local materials and design elements feature prominently, from the thatched roofs to the fringed umbrellas that shade the lounge chairs by the pool. The riverside spa is another place to discover Balinese products through deeply relaxing treatments and spiritual ones with a local healer, too. Five dining and drinking outlets include fine-dining restaurant Kubu, a spot for high tea, a cocktail and dinner venue called Ambar, and Sawah Terrace, where Sundays feature a Royal Brunch. Ubud’s center is only 10 minutes by car, but the guided vintage VW convertible tours on offer are arguably the best way to get around. From $1,250