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Built in the 1930s as a private villa, this boutique hotel was renovated in 2012, but still makes guests feel as if they’re staying in someone’s home. Perched on a steep hillside across the bay from the Old Town, it features stone terraces, vine-covered pergolas, and colorful gardens, all of which offer breathtaking vistas of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik’s signature tiled roofs. The 13 rooms—all but one with sea views—have high ceilings and arched windows lined with white shutters to soften the afternoon sun, while modern bathrooms come stocked with plush bathrobes and decadent Bulgari amenities. When not enjoying their daily delivery of fresh fruit or cookies, guests can head to the bathing platform at the bottom of the stone stairs, the outdoor pool at the neighboring Grand Villa Argentina, or the spa at the Hotel Excelsior.

La Boca’s Don Carlos is heaven for the indecisive. Since there is no menu, the restaurant’s namesake owner sizes you up and intuits what you need. The idea is to feel like you’re at home, where the whims of whoever’s cooking determine what comes out of the kitchen. Everything is made from scratch, in-house, and reflects what you’d get in a typical Argentine household: pastas, Spanish tortillas, vegetable croquettes, juicy grilled meats. Plates come out in quick succession until you say uncle. Wash them down with a bottle from their impressive wine list; you’ll leave with a full belly and a smile. Closed Sundays and Boca soccer match days.

It’s easy to get confused by all the different districts that fall within Palermo. One of the neighborhood’s most desirable areas, however, is Palermo Viejo—in fact, it is one of the most charming, vibrant and beautiful districts to be found in any Latin American city. Its cobblestoned streets are lined with London plane trees and low-rise early-19th-century houses. Along with the urban gracefulness are a slew of fine restaurants and chic boutiques, particularly in the trendy Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood areas (yes, Palermo Viejo has its own subsets).

The same people who brought you the parrilla at La Carnicería are bringing you Chori. This restaurant, named after the term for choripán, which is essentially an Argentinean hot dog, is located in Palermo Soho in Buenos Aires. There’s no table service at this casual order-at-the-bar spot, instead, the attention is on the choripán, with five different chorizo sandwiches, one morcipán (blood sausage), and a vegetarian sandwich with eggplant.

It would be easy to walk past this tiny, unassuming joint in the Recoleta neighborhood. But those in the know flock to La Cocina, which is still run by the Catamarca Province family that opened it 40 years ago (the owners’ grandson answers the phone and wraps up lunch orders nonstop). La Cocina’s famous empanadas are oven-baked (as opposed to fried), and this lighter take on the Argentine staple feels like something you could eat every day. Go early for lunch or dinner, as the tiny place fills up at peak hours; don’t miss the picachu, a spicy cheese-and-onion empanada. Open Monday through Saturday from noon to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Buenos Aires is so grand that the El Centro (city center) district alone has more historic sites than many world cities. As you stroll, you’ll view the iconic Obelisk, which overlooks the main Avenue 9 de Julio, and the Plaza de Mayo, where Evita addressed throngs of her followers from the balcony of the Casa Rosada. The churches are works of art—the Baroque Basilica of San Francisco is only one example—and even the office buildings are worth seeing (check out the elegant Palacio Barolo). In all, the architecture rivals that of any city in Europe.

The work of septuagenarian silversmith Juan Carlos Pallarols has earned him an international following. (Recently, the artist crafted a papal chalice for his friend Francis.) Visit the studio/showroom in the modest San Telmo neighborhood to see and perhaps purchase some of his complex, finely wrought pieces. A set of silver-handled steak knives makes a great souvenir.

When it comes to matters breaded, battered, and fried (a Panamanian food obsession) you’ve got to try a carimañola (a cassava-meal fritter stuffed with meat), hojaldre (pretty much fried dough), and corn tortillas and chicharrón (pork cracklings). Yes, all fried, nothing good for you, absolutely scrumptious. This is the tasty culinary tradition rooted in the customs of peasants who emigrated to the capital in search of work. It’s the kind of food you’ll find in any hole-in-the-wall, but the atmosphere at El Trapiche aims to make diners feel like they’re back on the farm. Ask for the bandeja panameña (a sampler) to try a little of everything; or go for restaurant specialties like hojaldre sandwiches or the local tamale, tamal de olla, served casserole-style.

The bricked-over windows of the bookstore/wine bar Falena may have you worrying the place has closed. But the isolation from the street that the bricks provide is part of what gives Falena the feel of a hidden sanctuary. Ring to enter and step into what could be some bookworm’s particularly inviting minimalist home. Downstairs, floor-to-ceiling shelves hold books handpicked by local independent publishers; a basement wine cellar safeguards a carefully curated selection of boutique vintages. And the rooftop terrace is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass—or pore over newly acquired volumes.

Here’s an intriguing historical fact most porteños don’t even know: Buenos Aires used to be called ‘the city of trams.” In its heyday, Buenos Aires’ tramway was the most extensive in the world, the city streets laid with 533 miles of tracks. Streetcars were horsedrawn at the end of the 20th century, then electric from 1897 onward, serving as the main mode of public transportation between the various neighborhoods and little towns of Greater Buenos Aires. By 1920, four companies ran nearly 100 routes, transporting 600,000 passengers per year. There’s little reminder of this spectacular system these days, save for a preserved section of the tramway in Caballito. Go for a ride back in time on one of the old-fashioned European streetcars, free on weekends. The car pictured here was brought over from Belgium: a gift from Brussels to Buenos Aires.

Like any great city, Buenos Aires has its Museum Mile. For art, standouts include the National Fine Arts Museum (MNBA), with its mix of Argentine and European pieces, as well as the Buenos Aires Latin American Art Museum (MALBA), highlighting the works of Latin American artists. Walk the boulevard between the MNBA and MALBA to see some of the city’s most luxurious real estate. From the MNBA, cross Figueroa Alcorta and swing by the University of Buenos Aires Law School and Floralis Genérica, a 65-foot, stainless-steel kinetic sculpture representing a massive flower. Follow Figueroa Alcorta to Castilla, then turn left into Grand Bourg Park, a stately, if petite, plaza surrounded by imposing palaces, or take a right into Palermo Chico with its circular streets, grand mansions, and palaces.

Buenos Aires is a city of readers—it supports more bookstores per capita than any other place in the world. The crown jewel of the librerías here is the Ateneo Grand Splendid. Housed in a theater where music legends such as Carlos Gardel once attracted vast crowds, the store features shelf after shelf of tempting volumes on its rounded balconies. Italian frescoes on the domed ceiling and plush red-velvet curtains are from the theater’s original 1919 design. The four-story space carries over 120,000 books and a local-music selection, and there’s a café on the erstwhile stage.

La Glorieta attends to those attracted to tango’s drama but who eschew slick, three-hour dance extravaganzas in downtown cabarets. Free and open to the public, this gazebo, in a plaza near Belgrano’s Barrio Chino, transforms on weekend evenings into an open-air gathering place for tango dancers—young and old, experienced and rookies alike. If you’re looking to learn the dance’s steps (as well as its complex etiquette), go early for classes (5–6:30 p.m.) before the dance floor opens. Dancing goes on until 11 p.m. and is canceled on rainy nights.

One of Guadalajara’s hippest bars stocks an awesome collection of agave-based spirits, with a focus on mezcal. In fact, its full name, Pare de Sufrir Tome Mezcal, means “to end suffering, drink mezcal.” Although it’s tucked away on a quiet street in Colonia Americana, the bar bursts with bright murals, string lights, and the sound of live bands or DJs playing everything from cumbia to rockabilly. Owner Pedro Jiménez Gurría also runs a local nonprofit called Mezonte, which promotes small producers making agave-based spirits in the traditional style.

Tango is as essential to Buenos Aires as pizza is to Naples, so the Anselmo Hotel is a perfect fit for the city, with its location in the heart of the San Telmo neighborhood—known for spontaneous street dancing—in a 1906 mansion once belonging to tango composer Anselmo Asiento. The hotel is perched on Plaza Dorrego, a lively public space surrounded by cafes and shops which especially gets going on Sunday, when the San Telmo antique fair and flea market spills into the street, attracting shoppers, musicians, and revelers. Clean-lined, modern furniture and black-and-white photographs of Buenos Aires compliment the building’s original wooden shutters and wrought-iron balconies. Sip a glass of Malbec in the cozy wood interior of the Acacia bar and restaurant, or take it outside into the calm inner courtyard. A small gym is available if you haven’t gotten in enough steps wandering the neighborhood’s cobblestone streets or tango dancing the night away.