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One of the more jarring building styles you’ll find in the city’s architectural mishmash is brutalism, and Argentina’s National Library is an iconic example of the movement. The imposing structure rises like a mammoth tree in the park that surrounds it, and its design seeks to suggest expansion: A root-like system of underground book depositories can be enlarged without changing the building’s intended aspect. When readers request titles, these come up through the building’s central trunk to a fifth-floor reading room, open to the public and featuring an unobstructed view of the Recoleta neighborhood and the river. Check the library’s website for information on talks, concerts, and events.

Built in the 1930s as a private villa, this boutique hotel was renovated in 2012, but still makes guests feel as if they’re staying in someone’s home. Perched on a steep hillside across the bay from the Old Town, it features stone terraces, vine-covered pergolas, and colorful gardens, all of which offer breathtaking vistas of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik’s signature tiled roofs. The 13 rooms—all but one with sea views—have high ceilings and arched windows lined with white shutters to soften the afternoon sun, while modern bathrooms come stocked with plush bathrobes and decadent Bulgari amenities. When not enjoying their daily delivery of fresh fruit or cookies, guests can head to the bathing platform at the bottom of the stone stairs, the outdoor pool at the neighboring Grand Villa Argentina, or the spa at the Hotel Excelsior.

To get from point A to B on the river delta, you’ll need to board a water taxi. These polished wood boats cruise the canals day and night, dropping passengers off and picking them up at rental houses, cabin complexes and restaurants along the way. The ride, of course, is part of the fun. Board one at the harbor - and make sure you know where it’s going before you sit down, or it might be awhile before you find yourself back in civilization.

The work of septuagenarian silversmith Juan Carlos Pallarols has earned him an international following. (Recently, the artist crafted a papal chalice for his friend Francis.) Visit the studio/showroom in the modest San Telmo neighborhood to see and perhaps purchase some of his complex, finely wrought pieces. A set of silver-handled steak knives makes a great souvenir.

The same people who brought you the parrilla at La Carnicería are bringing you Chori. This restaurant, named after the term for choripán, which is essentially an Argentinean hot dog, is located in Palermo Soho in Buenos Aires. There’s no table service at this casual order-at-the-bar spot, instead, the attention is on the choripán, with five different chorizo sandwiches, one morcipán (blood sausage), and a vegetarian sandwich with eggplant.

Guests at this 13-room retreat in Costa Rica’s central highlands can tour the estate’s 36 acres of coffee fields. After the walk, try a “cupping,” or tasting, of the shade-grown organic blends. End with a soak in your suite’s jungle-view tub. From $250. (305) 395-3042


After a couple days resting up at The Retreat Costa Rica, I was off on my next adventure. Finca Rosa Blanca, which doubles as a boutique hotel and coffee plantation, proved the perfect setting for exploration both near and far. I stayed in the La Guaria junior suite—each has it’s own name—this one named after a local flower. Having come from New York where apartments are cramped, I was pleasantly surprised by the spacious layout of the villa. The entrance leads into a circular area, with sky lights above that form a sort of dome. There’s a separate kitchen and dining area, a bathroom complete with a whirlpool, and a separate bedroom featuring a kingsize bed. My favorite part of La Guaria were the two balconies. There’s a small one right off of the bedroom, where I’d usually listen to the rain falling hard against the roof in the afternoon. In the mornings and again in the evenings, I’d make myself a cup of coffee and catch up on my emails outside on the larger terrace. It overlooks a large grass farm, as well as the flowers that grow on the property.


Speaking of coffee, Finca Rosa Blanca, is also a coffee plantation. On my first full day at the hotel, I signed up for their guided coffee tour, where I learned the ins and outs of coffee-making in Costa Rica—things like how Arabic coffee is the only type of coffee grown here and how the blonder the roast, the more caffeine it has; I always assumed the opposite. Our tour group was small but we had a guest appearance by the finca’s two adopted dogs—aptly named Finca and Rosa. It’s a mother and daughter, and I loved watching them run around the plantation and play in the little waterfall separating one bank from the other. The second part of the tour was an actual coffee tasting, where we sampled a “good” cup of coffee and an “over roasted” cup. I was surprised how many flavors and aromas I could pick up despite always claiming that I have a poor sense of smell...and silently resolved to skip the milk and sugar next time.


As for the food and lounge areas, there are some really creative spots. The El Tigre Vestido restaurant has both outdoor and indoor seating; I mostly ate in their open-air sections but definitely took advantage of the fire crackling in the evenings. It can get a little chilly there at night. On my last full day at Finca Rosa Blanca, I went all out. First up was a scenic (and very uncrowded) hike to Barva volcano. I learned that, while a national park, it’s one of Costa Rica’s hidden secrets. There were few tourists along our path, allowing us to feel like we had wandered into an enchanted forest out of a story book. Back at the finca, I indulged at their spa, with their Pura Vida Coffee Detox Package: a Swedish full-body massage, a coffee and chocolate body scrub and a refreshing facial. After a challenging hike that morning, it was just what the doctor ordered. Fun fact: There’s some great art here and I’m not just talking about the murals on the walls (there are some super colorful ones at the pool); One of the owners, Glenn, is an artist by trade and he designed all the metal work seek throughout the property, right here on-site.

At three times the size of the Big Island of Hawaii, this is South America’s largest island. Split almost equally between Argentina and Chile, Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego is divided from the mainland by the legendary Strait of Magellan that saved sailors the long, treacherous route around Cape Horn. The Argentine town of Ushuaia, on the island’s southern coast, is a launching point for journeys that take travelers through the Strait of Magellan and past the glacier-covered 2,438-meter-high (7,999-foot-high) Mount Darwin off of the Beagle Channel.

The traditional life of the gaucho (cowboy) still thrives on estancias (cattle ranches) in modern Argentina. To see for yourself, pay a visit to Estancia Santa Susana, which sprawls over 1,200 hectares (3,000 acres) just outside Buenos Aires. The best part is getting to watch the gauchos show off their horsemanship in events such as the sortija, a high-speed ring-grab. You can also view dancers performing the tango, tour the manor house with its period furnishings and lunch on grilled steak. If you have time to spare, you can even go horseback riding yourself—or, if you prefer taking it easy, hop a ride in a horse-drawn carriage.

Buenos Aires is so grand that the El Centro (city center) district alone has more historic sites than many world cities. As you stroll, you’ll view the iconic Obelisk, which overlooks the main Avenue 9 de Julio, and the Plaza de Mayo, where Evita addressed throngs of her followers from the balcony of the Casa Rosada. The churches are works of art—the Baroque Basilica of San Francisco is only one example—and even the office buildings are worth seeing (check out the elegant Palacio Barolo). In all, the architecture rivals that of any city in Europe.

One of Guadalajara’s hippest bars stocks an awesome collection of agave-based spirits, with a focus on mezcal. In fact, its full name, Pare de Sufrir Tome Mezcal, means “to end suffering, drink mezcal.” Although it’s tucked away on a quiet street in Colonia Americana, the bar bursts with bright murals, string lights, and the sound of live bands or DJs playing everything from cumbia to rockabilly. Owner Pedro Jiménez Gurría also runs a local nonprofit called Mezonte, which promotes small producers making agave-based spirits in the traditional style.

We were lost. My driver had picked me up from Hotel Alvear in Buenos Aires two hours ago, maybe more. It was hot in the car; the A/C had only two settings “off or ice blast.” I opted for a rolled-down window. We were on a jutted, dusty road that went on for several miles with no signage. He pulled the car over and made a call to Buenos Aires for clarification. After a rudimentary exchange with me in Spanish we continued slowly. Teens in a car behind us, not happy with our progress, tooted and gave us the universal sign of displeasure as they passed. My driver found the estancia La Bamba de Areco gates and after announcing ourselves at the intercom, were told to wait. In a few minutes, what a sight coming at us through the allée of plane trees; a gaucho galloping full speed on a beautiful mount. Still astride, she dispatched the gate and motioned for us to follow by car as she loped ahead. It was to be an amazing day. I was told that the owners, a French couple (a Parisian designer and an owner of an English Polo Team) purchased the crumbling estate five years ago carefully restoring and re-imagining the estancia. A series of superbly decorated rooms and suites offers entre to this privileged Argentine lifestyle to visitors. Love for polo or riding is optimal, not required. But a love for peaceful luxury, inspiring location, attentive staff, appreciation of the opportunity to be a part of a disappearing culture, and love of fabulous wines and food is a must here.

La Boca’s Don Carlos is heaven for the indecisive. Since there is no menu, the restaurant’s namesake owner sizes you up and intuits what you need. The idea is to feel like you’re at home, where the whims of whoever’s cooking determine what comes out of the kitchen. Everything is made from scratch, in-house, and reflects what you’d get in a typical Argentine household: pastas, Spanish tortillas, vegetable croquettes, juicy grilled meats. Plates come out in quick succession until you say uncle. Wash them down with a bottle from their impressive wine list; you’ll leave with a full belly and a smile. Closed Sundays and Boca soccer match days.

It would be easy to walk past this tiny, unassuming joint in the Recoleta neighborhood. But those in the know flock to La Cocina, which is still run by the Catamarca Province family that opened it 40 years ago (the owners’ grandson answers the phone and wraps up lunch orders nonstop). La Cocina’s famous empanadas are oven-baked (as opposed to fried), and this lighter take on the Argentine staple feels like something you could eat every day. Go early for lunch or dinner, as the tiny place fills up at peak hours; don’t miss the picachu, a spicy cheese-and-onion empanada. Open Monday through Saturday from noon to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Argentina is too vast a country to see on just one trip. But there’s a taste of real gaucho (i.e., Argentine cowboy) culture at the Mataderos Fair on the edge of town. For many, the main attraction is the various food stalls that hawk yummy, traditional comfort food. Try different versions of the ubiquitous empanada alongside delicacies from the provinces you won’t see on many in-town menus, like locro, a hearty stew with beans, corn, squash, and meat; or humita, a kind of Argentine corn-and-cheese tamale steamed in a corn husk; or the more familiar tamal, with meat instead of cheese. The fair runs on Sundays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. most of the year, or on Saturday nights starting at 6 p.m. in hot, sunny January and February.

Like any great city, Buenos Aires has its Museum Mile. For art, standouts include the National Fine Arts Museum (MNBA), with its mix of Argentine and European pieces, as well as the Buenos Aires Latin American Art Museum (MALBA), highlighting the works of Latin American artists. Walk the boulevard between the MNBA and MALBA to see some of the city’s most luxurious real estate. From the MNBA, cross Figueroa Alcorta and swing by the University of Buenos Aires Law School and Floralis Genérica, a 65-foot, stainless-steel kinetic sculpture representing a massive flower. Follow Figueroa Alcorta to Castilla, then turn left into Grand Bourg Park, a stately, if petite, plaza surrounded by imposing palaces, or take a right into Palermo Chico with its circular streets, grand mansions, and palaces.