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Most people don’t think of Warmoesstraat when they plan a shopping spree in Amsterdam. But if your gift lists and desires include dildos, vibrators, S + M toys, porn CDs or kinky leather, it’s where you’ll want to head. As a hub for the city’s leather and LGBT scene, the cobbled street is lined with shops, bars and clubs catering to a gay and kinky crowd. Even if you’re straight, you might find pleasure at Nana, self-described as “the most vibrating shop in town.” Get your groove on with the store’s OmiBod toys that vibrate with your iPod playlist. If nothing but a gay boy will do, search for Mr. Right at Warehouse, The Eagle, Argos or Dirty Dicks, all conveniently lined up on this colorful street off the Red Light District. When hunger hits, head for Getto, where you can saunter through the disco lounge before finding a seat in the dining room, decorated with a chalkboard menu and funky posters. Fuel up on drag queen-inspired burgers and cocktails before heading out to get your kinky on at BoB, MrB and other options for erotic-ware and adult toys. If you’re really into the scene, plan your shopping spree for Leather Pride Amsterdam, held annually on the first weekend of November, when Warmoesstraat becomes the street where some of the town’s most brazen gays come to see and be seen.

The red-light district in Amsterdam is a very busy place with an odd mix of life in one small neighborhood. In a peculiar way it’s very beautiful—there’s so much happening both visually and mentally it takes a bit to process it all as you wander through the rouge-colored alleys. It’s hard to look at the scene without thinking “What if…” And: “How do women end up here? Do they want to be here? In another life, could I be standing in their place?” There’s so much to think about while walking through this area. Even stranger perhaps is that this area is such a major tourist attraction. If you’re looking for seedy, scary alleys, you won’t find them here. But you will see tour groups, families, restaurants, and sex shops.

Don’t dress up to visit this grunge bar tucked on Marnixgracht in Amsterdam‘s Oude West. Don’t be put off by the abundant graffiti covering its gritty exterior, either. Inside, Café Soundgarden is a welcoming, unpretentious pub with a spectacular canal-side terrace and an alternative vibe. The laid-back joint boasts a pool table, pinball machines and table soccer, in addition to a full bar. Belly up for some of the cheapest beer in town, including a wide selection of domestic and imported brands. Beyond inexpensive drinks, the real attraction of the place is an expansive rear deck overlooking Singlegracht canal. Come as you are to share a beer and a joint with locals, expats and possibly a few tattooed tourists who’ve stumbled upon the gezellig terrace, offering a view of passing boats and the Nassaukade street scene. Stay for live music and party like a rock star while DJs spin techno-tunes late into the night.

It was a late Saturday afternoon in Amsterdam. The sun was almost piercing and locals were joyous, thronging cafés and shedding layers. After all, they had suffered weeks of spring’s damp and gray homecoming. Knowing the extents to which I will go and the lengths I’m willing to travel for a good sandwich, my friends took me straight to Small World Catering whose unalloyed success keep the small space thrumming with customers at all hours of the day. Make your own sandwich or choose between a variety of warm or cold combinations on different types of bread (go with the brown!) proposed by the Australian owner and his convivial staff. And if you’re not in a sandwich kind of mood but find yourself in the neighborhood, the freshly-pressed juices, locally-roasted coffee, vibrant salads and delectable desserts should do the trick. If there aren’t any available seats - which is likely - take your meal to go and head for the canal.

Unexpected surprises abound in Amsterdam. On the city’s east side, you’ll find one denoted by a tall windmill: Brouwerij ‘t IJ (the IJ Brewery), a small brewery and pub situated in the former Funen bathhouse, next to the De Gooyer windmill. Opened in1985 by former musician Kaspar Peterson, Brouweij ‘t Ij prides itself on a large selection of unfiltered, non-pasteurized beers and seasonal offerings. All are certified organic and made on the premises. Belly up to the bar next to the big mill and order your beer from a chilled tank. Follow the scent of hops onto the large outdoor terrace, where you can enjoy your brew with an order of peanuts, boiled eggs, abbey-made cheese, salami, ossenworst from Slagerij de Wit or Skeapsrond cheese from Dikhoeve Farm. The adjacent pub serves more substantial meals, as well as drinks and snacks. In addition to beer, Brouwerij ‘t Ij’s menu includes wine and non-alcoholic beverages. Guided tours are offered on weekends.

It’s a single street after Amsterdam‘s Negen Straats (Nine Streets), but Hazenstraat, the Tiende Straatje (Tenth Street), rates a ten in serious shoppers’ books. Lined with boutiques, cafés and galleries, this cobbled strip in the Bohemian-chic Jordaan begins starts at Lauriergracht, where French urban artist Invader installed one of 26 mini-mosaics inspired by Space Invaders characters. Highlights include: The English Bookshop, as much a literary gathering spot as a place to buy books and DVDs made from them; Petsalon, a hat shop that’s been a Jordaan fixture for 25+ years; Brown Clothes, featuring Kings Road-inspired couture; Joep Buijs’ art studio, with paintings of colorful women, children and dogs; Olivaria, Holland’s oldest olive specialty shop; Coffeeshop Biba, a back-to-the-60s-style smoke shop that’s grown up with the flower children; Chocolátl, a chocoholic’s Nirvana; Cats ‘n Things, for all things feline; Saarein. a bar for all “queer minded people"; La Festa Pizzeria/Bed & Breakfast; ‘t Stuivertje, serving continental cuisine; and Flamework, Daniela Malaica’s glass jewelry shop proffering vibrant necklaces and other contemporary accessories inspired by her African-Italian roots.

Cocktail bar-restaurants typically excel at one or the other, rarely both tipple and nibble. Four month old Tales & Spirits, located in the beating heart of Amsterdam, manages to succeed on both fronts. The cocktails are both creative in name and flavor (I opted for a Fallen Lady with vodka, deep fruit flavors and a dusting of chocolate and pepper), affordable and strong for the initiated cocktail lover. Spa still water is offered on the house with each drink ordered- a nice touch when the alcohol bill starts climbing. While I enjoyed my drink, it was the food menu that caught and held onto my attention. My truffle and wild sautéed mushroom risotto was impeccable in taste and size, leaving me sufficient room to test out one of their desserts of the moment. Most of the dishes on the menu are small so prepare to order several to share. And, of course, given the spot’s short order popularity, it’s wise to book ahead.

The atmosphere is heavy, the decibel level very low, and the wooden decor both comforting, and inviting. People in this café are either locals reading the newspapers while sipping a cappuccino, or, like me, tourists who just visited the Anne Frank House - which is just around the corner - and need a down time to collect their thoughts. The Café de Oude Wester is a natural stop after an emotionally-draining couple of hours, which puts in perspective everything we know about the atrocities of World War II. How some lucky people live through it, how the city was affected by it. Was this very café the scene of nazi meetings, did it participate in hiding Jews? What these walls must have seen and heard throughout these years. The warm smiles of the staff and the aromas emanating from the kitchen are a welcome invite back to the 21st century - as if they knew exactly what was on the minds of customers.

It has been a decade since the major museums on the Museumplein—a grassy square connecting Amsterdam’s main art centers—have all been open at the same time. Here’s what to check out at the Van Gogh Museum. Sunflowers, The Bedroom, and The Potato Eaters are just a few of the masterpieces on display as part of the “Van Gogh at Work” exhibit.

The central hub of downtown Amsterdam is Dam Square, and it’s been at the heart of the city’s history since the 13th century. Today, the open-air public space is ringed by shops and restaurants and packed with people, including street performers and tourists en route to nearby attractions like the Royal Palace, the National Monument, and the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church), where you can catch a horse-drawn-carriage tour of the city.

One could argue that the Pulitzer Amsterdam isn’t actually one hotel. Before 1960, each of its 25 buildings was an individual, 17th- or 18th-century merchant canal house. Painstaking renovations over the years have guaranteed that each room feels distinct, maintaining original architectural details from each house, such as arched windows, exposed beams, and friezes. And, from the outside, each house still looks separate, so that the glamorous, art-filled hotel blends right into its surroundings, seeming to be just another of the neighborhood’s picturesque historic buildings.

The recently restored hotel has entrances on and views over two of the city’s main canals—Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht—with a tranquil garden in the middle. The 225 guest rooms blend traditional and modern Dutch craftsmanship and service, while the authentic restaurant and bar showcase local flavors. Located in the heart of Amsterdam’s historic city center, the hotel is within easy reach of the Rijksmuseum, Stedelijk Museum, Van Gogh Museum, and the Anne Frank House. It’s also a quick walk, bike, or boat ride to the fashionable Nine Streets, the quaint shops of Jordaan, the flower market, and the Royal Palace.

Originally a 15th-century convent, followed by stints as the headquarters of the Dutch Admiralty and Amsterdam’s town hall, the Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam—or simply, The Grand—presides over the heart of the old city. With its imposing brick facade flanked by canals and its location within a stone’s throw of Dam Square and De Oude Kerk, The Grand would be a legend even without Sofitel’s designation. The majestic entrance courtyard hasn’t changed since its construction in the 17th century—a fact that’s reinforced by the hotel’s horse-drawn carriage, which offers guests a different way to explore the city center—and even before the building became a hotel, landmark figures in European history stayed on site, including William of Orange.

While today’s interiors are starkly modern, the designers alluded to the hotel’s storied past in the decor and textiles featured in the 177 rooms and suites, which overlook either the interior courtyard and gardens or the canals, and come with touches like rainshowers and signature MyBed mattresses. The private Canal House Suites—especially popular with the dignitaries and celebrities who frequent the hotel—may appear boldly contemporary, but accents like round windows and wood-beamed ceilings hint at their past as the private homes of Dutch admirals. The hotel’s five dining options include the Michelin-starred Bridges restaurant—set in what was once the town hall’s canteen—as well as the casual, all-day Bridges Bistro, traditional Flying Dutchman café, sophisticated Library D’Or lobby lounge, and peaceful Garden Terrace. The two-floor SO Spa houses a gym, heated indoor pool, wet area with Turkish hammam, and treatment rooms for French-inspired services.

It was the fifth of seven food stops on our Jordaan Food Tour (http://www.eatingamsterdamtours.com/jordaan-food-tour/), a four-hour gastronomic adventure through one of Amsterdam‘s most scenic and historic neighborhoods. We’d already devoured apple pie, Indonesian sandwiches, ossenworst, raw herring and lightly fried kibbeling. But could we find room for something sweet? Enter Mariska Schaefer, owner of Het Oud-Hollandsch Snoepwinkeltje, an old-fashioned candy boutique that harks back to a simpler time, when kids saved pennies for a trip to the local candy store. As we might have expected, a child about ten was using his birthday money to buy a bag filled with his favorite sweets on the day we visited. “No pictures of children,” ordered Mariska, then turned her attention to the kid’s selections. “I opened the candy shop because I really like Dutch old-fashioned shops; they have so much more atmosphere than the big chain stores,” she reflects. Inspired by her grandmother, she stocks drop, the national sweet, in dozens of flavors in her small shop—some sweet, others salty, still others downright inedible for some.

Among the most popular attractions for kids of all ages on the Scheveningen esplanade is SEA LIFE, home to more than 200 sea creature species and over 4,000 individual aquatic animals. At an interactive rock pool, see sharks, turtles, stingrays, clownfish, jellyfish and dangerous piranhas up close and personal. Touch live anemones, hold a hermit crab, and see stars at a collection of knobbed, chocalate chip and sunflower starfish. Discover what other creatures inhabit waters along the Dutch coastline, including dolphins, otters and rare turtles. In 2013, SEA LIFE Scheveningen was honored with ZooSite’s “most special birth” award, recognizing the arrival of Titulus, a black tip reef shark who now swims around in a special cage in SEALIFE’s ocean tank. The aquarium is a pioneer in seahorse breeding, having spawned nine different species over the past two decades. Exhibits are stocked with starfish bred in the park, so none are ever taken from the wild for exhibition purposes. Through extensive breeding, SEALIFE aims to save starfish and other endangered sea creatures from extinction. With its sister brand, Seal Sanctuaries, it annually rescues, cares for and returns more than 100 orphaned, injured and sick seal pups to the wild.

Recognizable by the gaggle of camera-toting tourists who routinely gather to gawk at one of Amsterdam‘s funniest shop windows, The Condomerie proffers colorful condoms and other contraceptive methods in all shapes, sizes, flavors and colors, as well as a selection of erotic paraphernalia. To celebrate holidays, sports matches and other special events, fancy condoms are sometimes displayed as soccer teams and in other unlikely scenes. You’re in luck if you want your dick to look like a black cactus, Santa or the Statue of Liberty. Purchase a Fun Pack or other sexy souvenir for that boyfriend back home or pick up a Trial Pack to experiment with different condom brands, sizes and textures. Size does matter here, and you can order custom condoms based on measurements you submit of your erect penis (directions available online). Set on Warmoesstraat just off the famed Red Light District—where much of the erotic action happens—The Condomerie was founded in 1987 by two savvy women concerned about the spread of HIV/AIDS and other sexually-transmitted diseases. The shop’s knowledgeable sales people contribute to a fun approach to responsible sex that makes it a pleasure to play it safe between the sheets.