Sail along the eastern edge of Admiralty Island, which has more bears than people, to find the north end of Stephens Passage and a choice. Head west for the sheer wild of Glacier Bay, or head almost due north into the Lynn Canal, North America’s longest and deepest fjord. The canal, high-sided and capped by glaciers, once held the attention of the world: At its head lay Skagway and Dyea, the starting points for the overland trip north to the Klondike Gold Rush. Dyea is a ghost town now, but Skagway still glitters in the golden light of its 1890s glory days.
