Amorgos is one of the few Cycladic islands where kafenio culture continues to thrive. Every village has at least one kafenio, the traditional café-cum-grocery-cum–community center, where old-timers play cards or argue about politics over ouzo mezes. O Prekas, on the waterfront of the port of Katapola, even serves as a travel agent. The decor has barely changed since it was founded in 1950, with its patterned floor tiles, neat rows of tin retsina jugs, black-and-white photographs, and a collection of vintage radios. It’s the perfect spot to share heaped plates of crunchy whitebait and grilled octopus as you watch the fishermen and ferry boats come and go.