Hogfish Bar and Grill, under a thatched palapa roof with open sides, is tucked in among boats and gulls of Safe Harbor Marina in Stock Island. In short, a meal or a drink there makes you feel like an insider, a salty local far from the crowds downtown. That in-crowd feeling is burnished on weekends, when local bands play sets, or during one of the events held by Hogfish during the season, like shrimp boils. The food is pretty simple and served simply and generously, arranged on plates crowded with side dishes. The hogfish sandwich, served fried on Cuban bread, is the stuff of late-night-post-beer legend.