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Mytiline’s Ermou Street
Ouzo is produced primarily on the Greek island of Lesvos. The lively neoclassical port of Mytilene is awash with delightful ouzeries that offer dozens of varieties of ouzo alongside saucers of salted sardines, cheese cured in olive oil, and crinkly olives. Running parallel to the harbor is pedestrian Ermou, the market street where you can stock up on all kinds of local delicacies. Squeezed in among the spice shops, cheese emporiums, fishmongers, and butchers decorated with garlands of spicy sausage are tiny time-warp shops selling buttons, embroidery, or bric-a-brac. At the north end of Ermou is Kafeneion O Ermis, a landmark restaurant run by the same family since 1922, where the ouzo-mezze are a cut above: stuffed zucchini flowers, octopus braised in wine, and marinated anchovies.