When it opened 20 years ago, El Lagarto was a humble beach bar, with a thatched roof, breezes blowing in from the ocean and simple food made on a grill set over a bonfire. As the spot became increasingly popular, the owners had to expand, building a bigger grill and a more varied menu, which now includes stuffed squid or whole lobster—both grilled, of course—as well as pork, chicken and steak.

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