Appenzeller Cheese

Ninety minutes northeast of Zurich are the dueling cantons of Appenzell—one predominantly Protestant and the other mostly Catholic. Both are known for their melancholy yodeling, beer, and creamy Appenzeller cheese. In the village of Stein, make a beeline to the working Schaukäserei (which means "show-dairy") cooperative, cheese museum, and restaurant that plates up some of the region’s tastiest cheese dishes. Highlights include a crispy cordon bleu stuffed with ham and gooey Appenzeller Surchoix cheese, a silky Käserahmsuppe (a creamy cheese soup lighter than fondue), fork-tender Käsekuchen (cheese pie), and Chäshörnli, Alpine macaroni and cheese, which comes topped with crunchy fried onions and paired with a cool puddle of applesauce. There’s also a shop stocked with local butter, milk, shrink-wrapped meats, and cheeses.

In the northeast corner of Switzerland, the twin cantons of Appenzell somehow manage to stay off-the-beaten tourist path, at least compared to some of Switzerland's more famous destinations. Among those who know the country well, however, the region offers an opportunity to experience a surprisingly bucolic and traditional side of Swiss life where cowbells ringing in green pastures and the cobblestone streets of quaint villages are lined with historic buildings. It is also the home of many of Switzerland's most delicious foods: Appenzeller bärli-biber (a gingerbread filled with almond paste), smoked meats, siedwurst (a white sausage flavored with caraway), and, most famously, Appenzeller cheese.

The mountain herbs that grow here play a key role in many Appenzeller dishes and products, and at the Appenzeller Schaukäserei (or show dairy) you can learn not only about how they are used to flavor the local cheeses (before making your own), but also their use in syrups, liqueurs, and Appenzeller cuisine generally.

For an itinerary to the gourmet highlights of the Alps, visit AFAR Journeys.