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  • Calling all dumplingholics—bite into the culinary backstory of manti, delicious dumplings filled with spiced meat. Plus: where to eat the best manti in Istanbul.
  • The Bosphorus has always defined Istanbul. Now the villages that line its European and Asian shores are injecting a new spirit into the city.
  • 36 destinations to kick-start your travel dreaming and scheming.
  • Free layover tours at increasingly popular Asian and Middle Eastern hubs now allow connecting passengers to explore the city beyond the airport in-between flights.
  • A journey through one of the world’s last, best travel secrets.
  • Tomtom Mahallesi, Kumbaracı Ykş. No:66, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Turkey
    Just off of Istanbul’s pedestrian shopping street, Istiklal Caddesi, Yeni Lokanta opened in 2013. Yeni means “new” in Turkish and the menu ventures in unexpected, surprising, and delicious directions, even if the décor, with its tiled floors and white washed walls, may look like that of many other restaurants in Istanbul. The sea bean salad is given a sour kick with the addition of green plums; the manti (Turkish ravoli) are prepared with a dried eggplant filling rather than minced meat; and bulgur salad takes on a red hue and fresh flavor with the addition of sour cherries. Order one of the meze selections to sample three dishes, in servings generous enough for two to share. Save room for dessert or you may miss your chance to try smoked buffalo milk ice cream—an unusual salty-sweet companion to the kadayif custard fritter.
  • 1 Yeni Cami Caddesi
    I had just left the Spice Bazaar behind me when I noticed the entrance to Yeni Camii (New Mosque). It was late afternoon, and I was already exhausted from a very long day of sightseeing. I wanted nothing more than to call it a day but I was already here so I thought I would just quickly dart in and out. One foot inside and the plan changed—the domed interior is an intimate space with a stunning design. As in the Blue Mosque, calligraphic discs hang from just below the edges of the ornately painted domes and soaring sections of walls are covered with beautiful Iznik tiles. Gold paint and thick wool carpeting create a luxurious, inviting feel. As tired as I was, I didn’t want to leave anytime soon. I discovered that Yeni Camii has a visitors’ section and found my spot on the carpet and discretely watched a slice of local life unfold before me—men and women praying, people having conversations in hushed tones, and a few tourists milling about. Enveloped by the quiet of this serene space, I felt rejuvenated in no time.
  • Eminönü Otobüs Durakları Yolu
    Arriving in Eminonu is chaotic. Whether arriving by foot, by boat, or by tram, expect an onslaught of sounds, scents, and movement. People congregate in groups outside Yeni Cami - the New Mosque. The Galata Bridge, Istanbul‘s iconic bridge that connects Sultanahmet to Beyoglu, hosts traffic, famed fish restaurants, pedestrians, and fishermen. The dock just to the west is bustling with floating fish restaurants serving up local fish and delights at plastic tables. If you love chaotic city scenes, this is one of the best in Istanbul.
  • Rüstem Paşa, Yeni Cami Cd. No:3, 34116 Fatih/İstanbul, Turkey
    Visiting a mosque, to me, is always the strongest display of one’s faith. I’m not Muslim, but every time I see the devout take some quiet time and create their own Oasis, I feel compelled to pause and contemplate.
  • Tomtom Mahallesi, Yeni Çarşı Cd. No:44, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Turkey
    This tiny hybrid wine shop–cum–wine bar has impressed many local vino lovers with its intimate ambience, tasty mezes, and friendly service from general manager Suleyman Er and his team. It has imported and local wines available to consume on-site or take away at discounted prices, and it’s perfect for a late-afternoon escape from the crowds of İstiklal Avenue—just 300 feet away—a pre-dinner drink, or a nightcap.
  • Istanbul, Turkey
    If you’re in Istanbul and interested in Turkish music and dance, then you should shimmy along to a Turkish Night. Favorite venues are Sultanas (www.sultanas-nights.com) and Karavansaray (www.kervansarayistanbul.com) in Taksim or Gar Gazino (www.garmuzikhol.com) in Yenikapi (near Sultanahmet). Most programs boast a bevy of talented belly dancers, folkloric dancers, and performers who re-enact cultural celebrations such as regional and Ottoman-style weddings. On occasion, you may see a comical performance by a flirty duo, Aşuk and Maşuk, who frolic with one another and the crowd in a dance of playful love. The show generally culminates in a program of party anthems from around the world sung by a pitch-perfect multilingual singer. Tickets include transfers to/from your hotel, three-course meals, and drinks (local alcohol only). The top belly dancers at these venues do teach and perform worldwide, so the standard of performance is high. Hodjapasa (www.hodjapasha.com) is also a favorite for its ambience and performances set in a 550 year old hamam in historic Sirceki. However, tickets do not include dinner, only soft drinks, tea, and coffee. Shows generally start around 9pm and finish by 11pm. Always confirm the program upon booking, and if you’re interested in busting some moves, don’t be shy—most audience members from the Balkan and Middle Eastern countries perform their own national dances once the curtain comes down on the show.
  • Apolloniou 11, Rodos 851 00, Greece
    The emphasis on the contribution of the Knights of Saint John to the culture and history of Rhodes Town makes it easy to forget that Rhodes was under Ottoman rule for hundreds of years. Of the remaining treasures of the Ottoman era, the most prominent is the Suleiman Mosque with its unmistakable pink walls and tall minaret. Opposite the mosque, the Hafiz Ahmed Agha Library has a collection of medieval manuscripts and Korans. The 16th-century Ibrahim Pasha Mosque is still used by the Muslim community today, but the 1558 Turkish baths—the Yeni Hammam—are closed indefinitely.
  • Efeler Mh. Liman Yolu 1376 Sk., Yeni Mahallesi, Sun Gate Complex A Block No:3/1, 09310 Didim/Aydın, Turkey
    Roughly an hour south of Kuşadası, Miletus has a long history. The earliest settlement was in the Neolithic period, roughly 3500 to 3000 B.C.E. The most impressive buildings and art, however, date from three different golden ages. In the 6th century B.C.E., Miletus was the wealthiest Greek city-state and a center of learning; then in the Hellenistic period it rose to prominence again. Finally, under the Byzantines it was an important city and the home of the architect of the Hagia Sophia. Excavations in the 19th century were led by German archaeologists, and while some artifacts were shipped to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin, there is still much to be explored here.
  • Yeniköy Mahallesi, Köybaşı Cd. No:93, 34464 Sarıyer/İstanbul, Turkey
    The castles, bridges and palaces overlooking the Bosporus may be impressive, but it’s the smaller yalılar (waterfront mansions) that whip many people into a photo frenzy on a Bosporus cruise. These ornate multimillion-dollar Ottoman mansions are hot properties, with prices for prime estates starting at $20 million. Buying one is no easy feat. Sales are conducted in the utmost secrecy as many high-profile owners seek to avoid gossip and prefer anonymity.