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Wandering Chef: Michael Lomonaco in Rome

We asked one Roman local how to experience the best of his city.

This 1st-century wonder will take your breath away. Not only is it one of the city’s most ancient sites, it’s been in continuous use for centuries. Originally built as a private temple, today it is a Catholic church and the resting place of Italian kings and the artist Raphael. Make the most of a wet day in Rome and watch as the rain falls through the center oculus.

Overview

The precise formula for a perfect day in Rome is highly personal, but visitors hoping to make the most of a single day in the Italian capital should start with an early morning visit to the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel, followed by a peek inside the Pantheon on the way to the Forum and Colosseum. Rome is stunningly gorgeous at night, so use your last bit of energy to chase panoramic views and to soak in the atmosphere of the historical center’s piazzas and fountains.

Armando Al Pantheon is right around the corner from the Pantheon, but it feels a world away. The interior is small, warm and inviting. They have many classic Italian dishes and a few specials of their own. The wine list is reasonable and intriguing. Get the bruschetta with lard, quail egg, and truffle and the spaghetti alla Griscia.

Opened in 1926, the National WWI Museum and Memorial is the only American museum exclusively dedicated to remembering, interpreting, and understanding the Great War and its enduring impact. Upon arrival, visitors are greeted by the Liberty Memorial Tower, an Egyptian Revival–style obelisk built in the early 1920s as a lasting monument to the men and women who served in the war. Take an elevator followed by 45 steps to the top of the tower, where an open-air observation deck offers sweeping views of the Kansas City skyline, then head underneath the monument to the state-of-the-art main gallery. Here, interactive displays, deeply touching films, and personal testimonies help guide visitors through the world’s largest collection of World War I artifacts, including several important documents. You’ll also want to save time to visit Exhibit Hall (which once served as the main museum for the Liberty Memorial and now hosts limited-run exhibitions) and Memory Hall (home to a portion of the Panthéon de la Guerre painting and bronze tablets honoring Kansas Citians who died in World War I).

In the 20th century, the Church of Santa Engrácia was converted into the national pantheon, in which important Portuguese personalities are buried. The first stone of the present building was placed in 1682; it was the first baroque-style building in the country. The work lasted so long that it gave rise to the popular expression “works of Santa Engrácia” to designate something that never ends. It took 284 years to complete the church, finally finished in the year 1966. Inside you will find the interior paved in colored marble, and outside you can’t miss the giant dome. There is a terrace at the top—you only have to climb 187 steps—but then you can enjoy the wonderful view over the river and the city itself. Among the illustrious personages buried here is the famous fado singer Amália Rodrigues. Sundays and public holidays are free until 2pm. To get there, take Bus 734 (at Martim Moniz) or Tram 28.

Just behind the Pantheon hides the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a gem in its own right. The only Gothic church in Rome’s center, it’s a breath of fresh air from over-the-top Baroque opulence. Plus, it has gorgeous frescoes by Filippo Lippi (an early Renaissance master), the body of Italy’s patron saint Catherine of Siena, the tomb of painter Fra Angelico, and a statue done—at least partly—by Michelangelo himself.

Some of Mexico‘s most famous artists, musicians, charros, mariachis, and politicians were born in the state of Jalisco, and they are honored in perpetuity at the Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres (the Pantheon of Illustrious Jaliscans). Urns in the center of the monument contain remains of the people whose memories and contributions to Mexico are enshrined here. Among them are muralist José Clemente Orozco and architect Jacobo Gálvez.

TIME2GIVE is a designer shop of souvenirs in the Alfama neighborhood. You can easily find nice souvenirs with several themes like sardines, Galo de Barcelos, Tram N 28—all in different forms like magnets, tiles, bags, mugs, and postcards. To get there: From the metro to Santa Apolónia, go up Calçada Forte, or if you are at National Pantheon, look for Calçada do Cascão and head down the street.

Santa Luzia offers you a panoramic view over Alfama, where you can make out the Alfama labyrinth. From here, you can see Santa Engrácia Dome (also known as National Pantheon), Santo Estevão Church, and the two white towers from São Miguel Church. Here you can also find two tile panels, one from Praça do Comércio (before the earthquake) and the other one with Christians attacking São Jorge Castle. Stone benches offer a place to sit and enjoy the views while someone plays music nearby. Or you can appreciate the paintings for sale, usually with trams as themes. Also, you’ll find a restaurant with a terrace. To get here, catch Tram N28.

One of the first commercial buildings in Portugal that uses two kinds of material characteristic in Europe in the second half of XIX century: iron and glass. The project was developed by the architect Emiliano Augusto de Bettencourt and it was inaugurated on the 7th October 1877. At the beginning, it was used for fresh food sale; nowadays in the central area of the market, there is a Center for Culinary Arts and at the side stores you can find different types of crafts, antiques, and also some eateries. The market is near S. Vicente de Fora Church and also Santa Engrácia Church (more known as National Pantheon). There is a small park in front with a kiosk where you can seat and enjoy the river views. Also on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the Ladra Fair takes place, just some meters from the market.

At the base of the Sierra de Guadarrama is the famous Monastery of El Escorial, sitting in splendor amongst a zig zagged green backdrop. After getting off the train, keep your eyes on the prize as you make the long walk up to the monastery. Once inside, it does not disappoint. Be prepared to stretch your neck in the library, the ceiling is a breathtaking masterpiece, reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel. Statues punctuate the property, and it’s far too easy to get lost in the grandeur of it all. Marble fans, take note of the Pantheon of Kings; home to many generations of Spanish kings for eternity. The intricate statue in the entryway is a truly impressive piece of talented art and dedication to perfection. If you have the time, a visit to Valle de los Caidos (Valley of the Fallen) where a 500 foot free standing cross guards over the graves of the lives lost in the Civil War. Photo by Marco Chiesa/Flickr.

While a lot of people would go see the Sistine Chapel when visiting Rome, fewer travelers venture out to this grand church at the Piazza di San Ignacio near the Pantheon, which features an almost equally beautiful painted ceiling done by Andrea Pozzo, a Jesuit Brother. Here, you’d admire the grand dome not knowing that it is just a painting that makes it look like a real, three-dimensional one (shown in the middle of the photo above). Simply amazing! As someone familiar with the teachings of St. Ignatius of Loyola, it was even more special and meaningful to unexpectedly drop in on this particular church celebrating the life of St. Ignatius through the paintings on the frescoes. We were also able to catch a children’s choir practicing in one of the side chapels, filling the church with enchanting Christmas melodies. If you’re in Rome, do drop by this church. Although not as widely known, it is a very beautiful church that many travelers also discover along the way, and you don’t even have to pay to go in.