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The actual name of the place is Adega Rio Douro (since it’s facing the river) but everyone knows it by Tasca da Piedade, named after the owner Mrs. Piedade. It’s also known for having “fado vadio” - traditional Portuguese music, here sang by non-professionals every Tuesday in the afternoon from 4pm until 7pm. While the music flows you can try a lot of Portuguese “petiscos”, such as stewed chicken guizzards, meat croquettes, “bifanas” and the crown jewel “iscas de bacalhau” - boiled codfish loin enveloped in a parsley omelette. The symbiosis between food and music is guaranteed, as everything here is done with passion. You might even be lucky to listen to the owner singing a few “fados”.

There is a fado song proclaiming that all artists and fado singers come to A Tendinha, here in one of the oldest areas in Lisbon, founded in 1840.


At Rossio, between the old cafes like Suiça and Nicola and on the other side of the D. Maria II National Theatre, next to Arco da Bandeira, you will find this little tasca. Here you can eat ham or fresh cheese sandwiches, bifana (pork sandwich) or some fried petiscos (snacks) like the Pastel de Bacalhau, a codfish cake, and shrimp croquettes. Ask for a beer or red wine from the house to accompany.

Coimbra seems to be one of my favorite cities in Portugal and in Europe thanks to its academic character. The University of Coimbra is built on a hill, overlooking the city and the students’ fraternities, called ‘Republicas’ which are all situated around and down the hill of the university. Walking around the university streets, passing from one colorful republica house to another and watching the students, wearing the typical black robe, made me feel as I was walking on the set of Harry Potter. When I’ve heard that JK Rowling was married to a Portuguese man before and used to live in Porto and visit Coimbra very often, all the pieces of the puzzle came together. The city is also known for its Fado music. ‘Coimbra Fado’ was adopted by the university students performed with the traditional Guitarra de Coimbra (a kind of Portuguese guitar originating in Coimbra). The old city of Coimbra is not that big and it can be done on foot. To have the best vista of the city, better cross the Cecil Belmond Bridge to see the city in its glory

If you are more interested in the night life of Lisbon, I highly recommend to stay in the area of Barrio Alto, known as the nigh-life and entertainment district of Lisbon. One of the most beautiful hotels in Barrio Alto is LX Boutique Hotel, which was a historic building, that turned into the current hotel. Each floor in the hotel is designed and dedicated to a concept related to Lisbon; One floor is dedicated to the fado music, another floor is dedicated to the Tagus river, and others are dedicated to Barrio Alto, the Seven Hills of Lisbon, and Fernando Pessoa, one of the greatest poets of Lisbon. If you are looking for a great night hang out, just cross the street to Pensão Amor, one of my favorite bars in the city. LX Boutique Hotel, Rua do Alecrim 12, Lisboa

Lisbon’s oldest district is known for its labyrinth of narrow streets, abundant Fado bars, and numerous historical attractions. Opened in 2015, the Santiago de Alfama is a draw in its own right: It occupies a former 15th-century palace just below São Jorge Castle and offers 19 accommodations with views of the River Tagus or courtyard garden, as well as unique configurations, including interconnecting bedrooms that would be ideal for families. Most combine traditional features such as wood-paneled ceilings and intricate cornices with modern comforts like rainshowers and bespoke linens. The property also has the amenities of a larger hotel, from a spa and meeting space to two restaurants (be sure to linger over petiscos and Portuguese specialties like oven-roasted cabrito at Manny’s Bar), yet with so few guests rooms, the staff will always know your name.

In the 20th century, the Church of Santa Engrácia was converted into the national pantheon, in which important Portuguese personalities are buried. The first stone of the present building was placed in 1682; it was the first baroque-style building in the country. The work lasted so long that it gave rise to the popular expression “works of Santa Engrácia” to designate something that never ends. It took 284 years to complete the church, finally finished in the year 1966. Inside you will find the interior paved in colored marble, and outside you can’t miss the giant dome. There is a terrace at the top—you only have to climb 187 steps—but then you can enjoy the wonderful view over the river and the city itself. Among the illustrious personages buried here is the famous fado singer Amália Rodrigues. Sundays and public holidays are free until 2pm. To get there, take Bus 734 (at Martim Moniz) or Tram 28.

Located in the Mouraria neighborhood—the birthplace of fado—this restaurant is a prime pick for sampling traditional Portuguese food. The codfish, or bacalhau, is a must here. It is served with plenty of bread to clean your plate.


In the style of a classic tasca (Portuguese tavern), the walls are adorned with blue tiles and many photos, paintings and drawings.

Take the Gloria Elevator up to this charming belvedere with a magnificent view over São Jorge Castle, Graça, downtown and the Tagus River. When you’re at the top, survey the red-roofed cityscape to identify landmarks using the map made of azulejo tiles. Have a drink at the kiosk or head across the street, where an 18th-century palace is home to the Solar do Vinho do Porto, an upscale bar serving a vast selection of port wines.

I would like to tell you about the place where you can the authentic real stuff that ordinary persons are selling on the street. An open air market called Feira da Ladra (Flee Market). It takes place around the Church of São Vicente de Fora on Tuesdays and Saturdays from 6h00 till 13h00. Here you can find everything that is characteristic about the Portuguese culture in objects, which belonged once to someone, who made it a part of their life for a number of years and now they are almost giving it away. I remember on one of my first trips I managed to grab a beautiful vintage 1940’s white linen hand braided table cloth that was custom made for the Henrique Family’s new dining room table. I got it from a middle aged woman, who went by the name of Maria Henrique who was selling a few pieces that had belonged to her grandmother. The hand sown H for the initial of the family’s last name approved for the authenticity of the item and I had no problem dishing out the incredible amount of…5 Euros.

If Lisbon has a soundtrack, it’s undoubtedly made up mostly of guitar-driven fado, the poetic hymns of the downtrodden born in 1820s Portugal. A night spent wallowing in the delicate, heartbroken melodies of the country’s national song style is certainly a quintessential Lisbon experience, but the fado houses of Bairro Alto and the Alfama can be complete tourist traps. Keep on walking to Mesa de Frades, an 18th-century chapel lined with exquisite Portuguese tiles, where just a few intimate tables are up for grabs each night. Be sure to make a reservation, and a late one at that—locals tend to go after midnight.