Search results for

Take it from a local: If you’re looking to bond with the locals and enjoy some simple fare with lots of taste, drive down to Williche. The family-owned sandwich shop in a street corner in Cabo Rojo is just a block from the town square and a fifteen-minute drive from a couple of beaches.


Williche, a small building with pictures of old Cabo Rojo and slogans proclaiming a love for Puerto Rico, serves you cafeteria-style. It offers juices, different kinds of sandwiches, and milkshakes that are just the right amount of dense. My mom and grandparents started taking me there when I was a kid and I’ve been enjoying their bocadillos ever since. You would expect little (seeing as how they’re basically bread, ham, cheese, onions, tomatoes, and ketchup), but that makes their immense flavor all the more satisfying.


I’ve been living outside of P.R. for more than six years, but every time I come home, I ask my family to stroll down with me by the dominoes-playing older men and to Williche. It’s almost always packed, but I and everyone else know the woman behind the counter (the founder’s daughter). It means we can talk and laugh with her, and get to know anyone else who happens to wander in.


Forget Olive Garden. When you’re in Williche, you’re family.

An easy, 10-minute trail leads to these paired cascades on the west side of the mammoth Morne Trois Pitons National Park—the higher, lefthand fall is known as Father (279 feet) and the smaller as Mother (131 feet). While the path stops at the viewing platform, visitors often descend and bathe in the pools, moving cautiously over the slippery rocks.

The mallorca (“my-your-cuh”) is the iconic Puerto Rican sandwich that’s typically eaten at breakfast, washed down with a cup of coffee. When I was in Old San Juan, I had more than my fair share at Cafeteria Mallorca. The mallorca is a soft, buttery bun that’s classically sliced in half, both sides generously buttered and then the sandwich is pressed between the hot steel plates of a griddle. Before serving, it’s generously dusted with powdered sugar. Oh yum! How can you go wrong with butter and sugar? It took me one bite to get hooked and before you know it, I had ordered another one but this time – jamon y queso….ham and cheese. It too came with a generous dusting of powdered sugar. Ham, cheese, sugar. I know, it sounds like an odd combination but don’t knock it til you try it because it’s good, so good, it’s addictive! The bread was slightly crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside. The mallorca was warm, buttery, sweet and savory, every bite made my tastebuds sing with joy! If you decide that mallorcas are not your cup of tea, the menu also offers up eggs, pancakes and cereal along with coffee, tea and juices. Conveniently located in the heart of Old San Juan, Cafeteria Mallorca is a homey and unpretentious place that’s a throwback to the simple cafeterias of days gone by. Great place to bring the kids!

Housed in the former archbishop’s palace, the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Tours features one of France’s most extensive art collections, with works by everyone from Rubens, Rembrandt, and Rodin to Monet and Degas. Outside, the courtyard is dominated by a splendid cedar of Lebanon, planted in 1804, and Fritz, a stuffed elephant who was killed in 1902 after a bout of madness during a Barnum & Bailey circus parade in the streets of Tour. After you’ve seen the museum, from its Italian, French, and Flemish galleries to its modern art collection, head across the park and refuel with a coffee and pastry at Aux Délices des Beaux Arts.

Established in 2001, Snæfellsjökull National Park—the first ever national park created in Iceland—covers an impressive 65 square miles around the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, which itself extends some 44 miles into the sea from Iceland’s west coast. The park is dominated by the Snæfellsjökull volcano, whose 4,741-foot-high ice cap—made famous by Jules Verne’s novel Journey to the Center of the Earth—is sometimes visible from Reykjavík. The volcano remains one of the main draws of the park, thanks to its opportunities for climbing, sledding, and skiing, but the rugged coastline of the peninsula is also dotted with picturesque fishing villages and full of native birdlife and lava fields such as Búðahraun, a designated nature reserve, ripe for exploration.

Husband and wife Gil and Rebecca Gutiérrez run the ranch known as Zandunga, some twenty minutes from central San Miguel. Every Sunday—and only on Sunday—the family-friendly ranch opens its gates to visitors and guarantees fun, in everything from live jazz and blues to outdoor dining and dancing, plus impressive country-style buffets groaning beneath grilled meats, tacos and other regional delights. The gringos love it, but you’ll see locals and Mexican tourists there, too. A day in the country that won’t bust your budget.

Just a mile off Messinia’s coast is the beautiful Proti Island, which is said to resemble a crocodile in shape, and is a haven for history buffs. On land, you’ll find archeological sites and ruins from ancient temples and citadels. Additionally, Proti Island is great for diving due to its clear visibility, 15 dive sits and mix of reef, cave, wall, wreck, canyon, and drift diving. As you swim through turquoise Mediterranean waters, keep your eyes peeled for blue-spotted rays, painted combers, damselfish, sea turtles, and myriad colorful corals and sponges. One company that can take you diving off Proti Island is Navarino Sea by Aqua Divers Club, a Padi Five-Star IDC Resort.

In the Akihabara neighborhood, giant anime billboards, towering Sega arcades, and electronics shops dominate the streets. The area’s denkiya, or electric appliance stores, boast an unparalleled selection of gadgets for gear geeks. The giant among them is Yodobashi-Akiba, an electronics megastore located directly east of Akihabara Station. Yodobashi-Akiba has nine levels of appliances, electronic toys, sports gadgets, and travel items. Check out 700,000 yen (about $7000 USD) Leicas as well as the many non-electronic offerings: lightweight kimonos known as yukata, anime figurines, bicycles, and books. The first and eighth floors offer sustenance and a break from shopping, with restaurants serving up ramen, tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet), soba, and sushi at any hour from the popular Tokyo chain Sushi Zanmai. The ninth floor is devoted to golf and baseball, complete with a driving range and batting center.

Right on Evergreen Road in the middle of Southfield, in a busy section of office buildings and hotels, the Mary Thompson Farmhouse and still-working farm presents a chance for the visitor to imagine exactly what life was like before the skyline became dominated by steel and glass. For many years, Mary was a school teacher in New Jersey and Florida. However, later in life, she lived in the farmhouse and it was bequeathed to the city upon her passing, with the stipulation that it be forever preserved. It’s truly unusual for a historical site because of the working nature of the property and its proximity to such a thriving urban center. Tours are available and more information can be obtained by calling (248) 354-4711.

La Isla de Guilligan (Gilligan’s Island, though not the one from the television show) is a popular hangout for Puerto Rican locals. I myself am only home for several weeks a year and I still go once or twice every year. The island is sometimes isolated and sometimes crowded. It boasts snorkeling (I’ve spotted many anemones, fish, crabs, starfish, and barracudas), calm water perfect for floating and swimming, and several trees from which you can jump into the water. It’s off the coast of Guanica, and there are two ways to get there. Either take a ferry (call 787-821-5706 for more information) or rent a kayak from Mary Lee’s by the Sea. If you choose to do the latter, you might want to take your kayak to Isla Ballena (see my highlight “Kayaking and Snorkeling and Hoping for Whales”). This tends to be a day trip, so I suggest you have some food. You can either pack up your own or, if you take the ferry, place an order before embarking and tell them when you’d like to have it delivered. There are picnic pavilions that you can claim if it’s a calm day or you get there early.

Suppose I told you there was a small, remarkably idyllic and fairly unpopulated island in the Caribbean just a short distance from the mainland United States, an island so immaculate, plans were in the works to make it a National Wildlife Refuge, an island with a beach rated one of the best beaches in the world, an island where you could basically do whatever you wanted along its iridescent shores with little chance of being interrupted by prying eyes.... What’s the first thing you’d do? Well, if you were the U.S. military back in 1901 and the destination in question was the island of Culebra, you’d blow it all to hell! For nearly 75 years, bombs pounded Flamenco Beach on Culebra, la “Última Virgen,” while the U.S. military used it for target practice. Protests drove the Navy away, but some relics remain on the once pristine sands as a reminder of how never to treat one of the best strips of beach in the world. During the weekends, Flamenco Beach can get fairly crowded with “mainland” Puerto Ricans taking the ferry over for a day in the sun, so I recommend you make time during the week for a more secluded experience. There are vendors nearby, but not too near, to make your stay a pleasant one with local cuisine and plenty of ice-cold beer.

A short drive outside the town of San Pedro de Atacama, Tierra Atacama has wonderful views of fields and Volvano Licancabur. The hotel is part of the Tierra hotel group owned by the Chilean-American Purcell family (who also own Tierra Patagonia, Tierra Chiloé, and Ski Portillo). The property originally served as a cattle corral, but Chilean landscape artist Teresa Moller has transformed the grounds, preserving the ancient algarrobo and chañar trees and restoring the adobe walls.

The bedrooms are decorated in natural colors, with local touches like ceramics marching along the sills of the extra-large windows. Animal-skin rugs and alpaca throws provide a touch of warmth for the cool desert nights. You can see the incredible silhouette of Volcano Licancabur from all the rooms, but the Poniente rooms are slightly larger and have better views. There is a friendly communal vibe at the hotel, and upon arrival guests meet with the head guide in the main lounge to choose from the range of group activities on offer each day.

Turkey isn’t known for its beer, with most menus dominated by the serviceable yet flavorless Efes. The craft beer movement has been gratefully welcomed (especially by expats), and a few breweries have popped up in Istanbul in recent years. The Populist brewery is part of Bomontiada, a massive complex of art and performance spaces, shops, restaurants, and nightlife on the site of the former Bomonti Beer Factory, which closed in the 1950s and was abandoned for several decades. Populist’s food menu is standard pub fare, with a few surprises like a lamb burger with Carolina mustard sauce and a flatbread pizza with kokoreç (better-than-it-sounds grilled lamb intestines). The rotating selection of 12 beers on tap might include a Belgian Turkish wheat with anise and a hoppy IPA. To reach Bomontiada, take the metro to Osmanbey, and from there it’s a 10- to 15-minute walk through a historically diverse and rapidly changing neighborhood.

Chez Baptiste has been open since 1922 and although it recently underwent a rejuvenating identiity change, it still holds that old-world mystique that only places this old can have. Times have changed. Fashion has changed. Residents have changed. And the people to go into Baptiste too. Especially those who are hockey fans -- hockey players are now paid millions, and they even wear a mask. To think of how different things were when Baptiste open is mind-boggling. But one thing I’m certain is that the staff still serve the finest brews with the same sincere smile at their predecessor. Often described as a “best friends hangout”, the watering hole is mostly frequented by regulars, groups of friends that simply want to grab a few pints and make new world domination plans together (that’s what friends do, right?) At Baptiste, the stress is left out of the door and that’s when the fun starts. Good times ahead, folks.

This 248-room hotel in one of the city’s tallest skyscrapers—Roppongi’s glass-sheeted Tokyo Midtown—offers some of the best views in the city, but the interiors are just as eye-catching. The property starts on the 45^th floor and espouses classic European decor, with four colorful abstract works by California painter Sam Francis, each 12 feet high, dominating the lobby. Rooms and public spaces look onto Mount Fuji, the Imperial Palace, and Tokyo Bay; inside delicate woodwork, hand-tufted carpets, patterned chiyogami wall coverings, a lobby waterfall, and Murano chandeliers set the scene. The hotel proudly touts the most expensive guest room in Japan, the Ritz-Carlton Suite, yours for the princely sum of $16,200 per night.