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  • Expect to find much more than pommes frites, moules, and Brussels sprouts at the restaurants and bistros of Brussels. Belgian cuisine picks up traditions from the tables of its neighbors, France and Germany, as well as reflecting the cuisines of its international population and the bounty of local farms, ocean, and gardens.
  • Split! Eight Quirky Border Towns
  • AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent writer Susan Orlean on a spontaneous journey to Denmark.
  • Seeking the wonderfully disorienting effect of travel, writer Taras Grescoe ventures to Budapest, where bewilderment ensues.
  • Berlin, the capital of European start-ups, sometimes seems fueled entirely on caffeine. Club Mate, a caffeinated soda beverage, is the popular drink of choice for many Berliners, but when something hot is needed, it’s all about the coffee. Berliners tend to have their favorites for coffee and will defend their local café against others.
  • A weekend trip to visit Berlin offers just enough time to explore some of the city’s history and cultural hotspots, and, of course, tuck into some German cuisine and street food (hello currywurst). If it’s a meet the locals sort of weekend you’re after, pick a few neighborhoods to focus on: perhaps the restaurants, street art, and galleries of Mitte and Friedrichshain? Don’t miss the East Side Gallery. And, on Sunday, Prenzlauer Berg for its open air flea market. A perfect weekend indeed.
  • Berlin has long had a reputation as one of the world’s best cities for nightlife. If anything, the scene gets better with every passing year. Whether you prefer a relaxed evening at a high-end dimly-lit cocktail bar; a craft beer in a club that includes a top-notch grungy backyard hangout; live music, a dance floor, and shots shots shots; or the ever-so-Berlin combination of a trippy art installation, beer garden, and dance club, the city serves up the good times.
  • Though Berlin’s late nights make sleeping in the next day all too tempting, the city’s shops and farmers markets are very good reason to get up and out. If you need a clothing store for your next out-to-the-clubs outfit, bikini berlin is definitely worth a visit--it’s the go-to department store for fashion-forward and design-minded types. A more traditional but equally stunning shopping center is the century-old Kaufhaus des Westens. But if you really want to mix with locals, the city’s outdoor markets of both the flea and farmers varieties are truly memorable stops. Shopping local culture your thing? The city’s record and book shops provide hours of entertainment.
  • Writer Lisa Abend discovers that Malta is a dream of Europe past, all faith and firepower.
  • Rosenthaler Str. 1, 10119 Berlin, Germany
    In a sprawling white building on a bustling square in Berlin’s Mitte district, the Circus Hotel offers crisp design and easygoing service at shockingly affordable prices. The owners also run a popular hostel across the street. In 64 airy rooms, suites, and apartments, dark oak floors and funky splashes of red, mint, and hot pink accent a minimalist aesthetic. Offbeat amenities include access to the house Smart car, Segway scooters, bikes, and local cell phones. Make sure you ask for a room on the courtyard: Rooms facing the street can be noisy because of the rattling trams outside.

    This appeared in the May/June 2010 issue.
  • Inside the city’s most innovative restaurants, maverick chefs are defining modern Czech cuisine.
  • West Germany is great for enjoying both urban life and nature. Bonn, the former West German capital, is a small town with lots of parks and hip pedestrian streets. Cologne, one of Germany’s largest cities and a host to carnival, has a cosmopolitan population that enjoys both tradition and modernity.
  • On Ruth Reichl’s recent trip to Frankfurt, Germany, there was one constant: Everybody knew of the best cider tavern she just had to visit. Out of the dozens of options, four stellar blends of the traditional and modern stood out.
  • Linienstraße 160, 10115 Berlin, Germany
    It might be small and simple—conspicuously bare white walls, just a smattering of handmade wooden tables topped with flower arrangements, and a few barstools—but the updated German cuisine at Lokal is far from basic. With a commitment to local and organic ingredients, the kitchen draws on classic carnivore favorites like offal and game, making them look and taste completely unique. There are usually a couple of equally tasty dishes for vegetarians, also created using ingredients sourced from farms around Berlin. The atmosphere is generally quiet and pleasantly refined.
  • Germany’s oldest and most famous university town, Heidelberg is known for its striking Old Town, beautiful setting on the Neckar River, and evocative hilltop castle. Destroyed by French troops in the 1690s, rebuilt during the 18th century, and miraculously unscathed during World War II, it’s proved a source of inspiration for everyone from Goethe to William Turner to Mark Twain. Equally romantic is the surrounding valley, full of forests, fortresses, castles, and charming villages like Bad Wimpfen.