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The big advantage of Topo, on the sixth floor of a shopping center on Martim Moniz Square, is its top-level location with views of the castle, Mouraria neighborhood, and more. Outside on the terrace, grab one of the wooden benches and linger over a cocktail accompanied by tasty Portuguese appetizers.

France’s chic, budget-friendly hospitality chain has gone Brazilian with this boutique hotel in Rio’s Santa Teresa neighborhood. Rooms are on the petite side, ranging from 160 to 280 square feet, but have whimsy to spare, with graphic rugs, minimalist furniture, and cheeky mirror messages scrawled over king-sized beds. Mama Shelter properties aim to be welcoming and lively, a fact that’s especially evident in the common spaces. The on-site restaurant features communal tables, stepped seating, and a menu that encourages sharing, while the Portuguese-tiled bar brings guests together over creative cocktails. While Mama Shelter isn’t on the beach, it does offer a lovely courtyard for lounging in the sun, as well as terraces with beautiful city views. It’s also right in the middle of one of Rio’s most happening neighborhoods, putting guests within walking distance of several trendy restaurants and bars.

Perched on a steep hill in the lovely neighborhood of Alfama, you will in no doubt leave with a great souvenir or gift. Sellers throw down blankets or rugs in rows and sell a variety of hand-made goods, antiques, books, clothes, military objects, etc. I took home two wonderful brass bottle openers and a couple of old world maps. Getting to the market is easy and the trip there is quite beautiful; take the Tram 28, or Tram 12 up the hill through the tight, and narrow neighborhood streets (becos). After you’ve spent all of your Euro, take a short walk over to the Santa Engracia Church, Museum of Decorative Arts, or the National Pantheon. Oh, and don’t forget to take in the views and snap a few pictures.

Azulejos (glazed tiles) are a ubiquitous decoration throughout Portugal. They cover the facades and interiors of many houses in Lisbon, and are even used as historical markers. The Museu Nacional do Azulejo, located in a 16th-century convent, has a permanent exhibition that illustrates the heritage of these Portuguese tiles from the 16th century to the present, touching on everything from Ottoman geometry to Goan altars. Also on view here is a remarkable azulejo mural, A Grande Vista de Lisboa, which offers an idea of what the city looked like before the earthquake of 1755.

With two shops very well located in two of the most visited neighborhoods, one at Chiado and the other at Bairro Alto, Bairro Arte sells crafts and design pieces created by young artists. Many of the pieces are connected to Lisbon in some way, for example a painting of Tram 28. But Bairro Arte is also a gallery, presenting contemporary art exhibitions, with paintings, photography, and sculptures that are sold at reasonable prices.

Santa Luzia offers you a panoramic view over Alfama, where you can make out the Alfama labyrinth. From here, you can see Santa Engrácia Dome (also known as National Pantheon), Santo Estevão Church, and the two white towers from São Miguel Church. Here you can also find two tile panels, one from Praça do Comércio (before the earthquake) and the other one with Christians attacking São Jorge Castle. Stone benches offer a place to sit and enjoy the views while someone plays music nearby. Or you can appreciate the paintings for sale, usually with trams as themes. Also, you’ll find a restaurant with a terrace. To get here, catch Tram N28.

The Pestana Hotel Group has a knack for turning historical properties into luxe hotels; the Pousada de Lisboa is no exception. Situated on Lisbon’s grandest square, the Praça do Comércio, the 90-room property inhabits the elegant former home of the Ministry of Internal Administration. Furnishings combine clean, modern lines with ornate wall moulding and a neutral color scheme dominated by pale greens and whites. Choose one of the mezzanine rooms for views of São Jorge Castle; the high-ceilinged Suite Praça do Comércio offers sweeping vistas of the square and River Tagus from two large windows. The hotel’s RIB Beef & Wine restaurant caters to the expense account crowd, specializing in premium cuts of meat aged for 14, 28, or 60 days and served with a regional touch: Lodosa piquillo peppers. There’s also an indoor pool lined with loungers, and a spa offering a full range of treatments, including a body scrub inspired by the scents of Madeira and the Algarve.

The Castelo de São Jorge, is one of the Alfama neighborhood’s most historically significant monuments. Plan a visit late in the afternoon so that you can explore every nook and cranny and learn about the castle’s abundant history. Stay for golden hour so that you can capture the light as it dances on the castle walls, and later to watch the sunset dip below the horizon.

Driving down an old dusty dirt road near Vila Verde da Raia in the area of Tras-os-Montes in northern Portugal I could imagine the area in the 19th or 20th century.The region probably hasn’t changed very much. I have seen pictures of this road from the 1940’s and I can’t see any difference. The road was not paved then and still isn’t. There are no modern homes or strip malls. I loved the natural vegetation and the peaceful vista. After following the road for about 10 minutes, it curved to the right.There were huge sycamore trees on both sides of the road leading into a tiny tucked away village that dates back about 1,000 years or so. The village of Vilarinho had a small plaza and a well. There was a post office on one side of the square, a beautifully restored church ( I wished that I could have seen the original), and many whitewashed granite and concrete homes. I saw that most homes featured modernized interiors. Past the church was the cemetery and large fields of many crops. At first, the residents were very curious but warmed up and became very friendly offering stories of the village, the farming, and tales of the relatives buried in the cemetery. As I walked the village and farm grounds they kept their eyes on this “stranger”, but they were very happy when I expressed such interest in their lives, homes, and their lovely village. A side trip is always a travel bonus and is one of the rewards of going off on your own to mix with the locals.

When hotelier Sean MacPherson opened the Ludlow he totally nailed the unique spirit of Manhattan’s Lower East Side. The 175-room hotel is the perfect mix of gritty and stylish, cool and calm. Rooms are done up in that signature MacPherson style with unique artisan touches including handmade silk rugs, artisan—crafted Moroccan pendant lamps and Indo-Portuguese-style beds. The “and” factor amenities include bathrobes from cult Paris fashion label Maison Martin Margiela and a Rockstar suite with a 1,100-foot terrace with Williamsburg Bridge views. The lobby is always abuzz, no matter what the hour and features a rotating selection of art curated by Vito Schnable as well as an outdoor “secret” garden that’s perfect for hiding away with your laptop or a good book. Breakfast is included for guests and the warm pastry basket should not be missed. Perhaps the highlight of any stay is the fact you’re right above Dirty French, one of NYC’s buzziest restaurants. Being an elevator ride away from the complimentary herb-seasoned flatbread is reason alone to book a stay.

A residential neighborhood with traditional commerce, and considered to be the most peaceful in Lisbon, this neighborhood brings together the best of life conditions to those who call this home. Taste a chocolate cake at the pastry shop which sells “The Best Chocolate Cake in the World” (Rua Coelho da Rocha, 99, next to the market). Then walk off your calories by visiting Santo Condestável’s Church, an emblematic monument which was designed by Vasco Regaleira, the architect of the “new churches.”

Decorated by Luís Pinto Coelho, who also decorated “A Paródia” and “Pavilhão Chinês,” this historic bar is 40 years old. With an art nouveau décor, the space is very cozy. A piano serves as a table, and shelves are full of sculptures and busts. Journalists and people with connections to politics used to frequent this place, but that was some years ago. Nowadays, it’s a good choice for a conversation with friends, without the chaos of bigger bars like the ones in Bairro Alto.

The Chapel of the Apparitions was constructed on the site of the apparitions of Our Lady at the Cova da Iria, Fatima. The original statue of Our Lady of Fatima rests on a stand ( which covers the holm oak tree on which she appeared to the children) just in front of the Chapel. Construction began in 1918. It was dynamited in 1922 and soon rebuilt. There are Masses and rosaries several times a day at the Chapel. The evening candlelight processions start at the little Chapel. You can get schedules at your hotel desk or at the information center at the sanctuary. I attended services at the Chapel several times during my pilgrimage. I felt awed and I couldn’t keep away from this important religious site.

To get to know the neighborhood and its daily life, nothing beats a stroll through Alfama’s streets. It is the oldest and one of the most typical neighborhoods in Lisbon. Here you might see two women chatting at the window (well, screaming) while hanging the laundry; people sitting outside on small wooden benches or the entrance steps to old houses; and, of course, people listening to fado. The sounds of fado can come from a fado restaurant or from an old tavern (here fado is called Fado Vadio since it is sung by nonprofessionals after drinking aguardiente). On the nights of June 12 and 13, Alfama celebrates Santos Populares, when the streets are adorned with colorful little flags, the air is aromatic with smoke and smell of sardines, the beer is flowing, and music is everywhere.

The name of this little-known Alfama gem means simply “Aunt Natércia,” and that’s exactly who will greet you if you manage to snag a seat. Here, you’ll find no-frills, home-cooked Portuguese dining, with classic dishes like bacalhau com natas (oven-baked salted cod with fried potatoes and cream), arroz de pato (duck rice), and folhado de bacalhau (salted cod in puff pastry) being upstaged only by Aunt Natércia herself. She’ll talk your ear off in Portuguese while she cooks and serves—it’s a one-woman show—but her food is so good you won’t even care. Reserve ahead.