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Once upon a time, Europe (mostly Switzerland, France, Belgium, and the UK) dominated the chocolate market and through aggressive marketing and downright colonialist extraction methods, became erroneously known for being the world’s experts on cacao, yet cacao came from South and Central America and didn’t grow anywhere near Europe. Recent years have seen the best chocolate rightfully return to the source where it originated—Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, and Venezuela, where a boom of quality chocolate has replaced reimported European milk chocolate sold to those cacao producing countries for generations. But Switzerland is back in the game with this excellent new chocolate shop by local food expert Dieter Meier and his patented cold pressed extraction method that brings out the botanicals and nuances of these sourced cacaos in ways other chocolate manufactures cannot. The results are Cuban, Bolivian, and Guatemalan single bean bars ranging from white to 80% dark that are unlike anything else on the market. The tiny shop overlooking the Limmat River opened in December 2017 and is not cheap, but worth every rappen for its exquisite expression of flavors.

In the heart of El Viejo San Juan, the Plaza Colón (Columbus Plaza) is so much more than a place honoring an important piece of San Juan’s history. Sure, snapping an Instagram photo in front of the bronze statue of Christopher Columbus, credited for the first discovery of the island, is definitely a “must-do.” Find a local and in your best Spanish accent say “Perdón, podría tomar una foto por favor?” Or play it safe and ask another tourist in English (they’re not hard to find!). Either way, stay and hang out. Explore the local artists’ tents (like this one, with rings and bracelets made from brightly colored ceramic beads and recycled aluminum, customized to fit). Pick out unique, inexpensive gifts for loved ones and, of course, something to remember the trip! And don’t ignore the ringing bell of the sorbet vendors selling “coco frio” for $1. Try a scoop of papaya y piña to help cool off in the heat of the Puerto Rican sun.

San Juan Cemetery lies on the coast adjacent to El Morro (San Juan’s beloved fort) and nestled in the district La Perla, a rougher part of town. Its statues and tombs make it as beautiful as a New Orleans cemetery. Exiting El Morro, head down the grassy field to your left to catch this flustering overhead view. On this day, a powerful storm was rolling in, casting everything in gray.

Shop for an authentic souvenir in Everything but Match, a store inspired by a T-shirt line designed by the owners’ 6-year-old daughter. In this shop in Old San Juan, you’ll find original art, accessories, and children’s clothing made by local artists and artisans. From unique jewelry to brightly colored throw pillows, you’re sure to fall in love with something unique to bring home in your suitcase.

New York has Ellis Island; Buenos Aires has the Hotel de Inmigrantes. The huge waterfront building, located near the old port docks in what’s today known as Puerto Madero, served as the temporary home for waves of European immigrants arriving to Argentina between 1911-53. Today, the Hotel de Inmigrantes is an intriguing (and free) museum that few tourists see: come to see photos and memorabilia representing the many immigrant groups who came through the port of Buenos Aires, plus colorful advertisements for trans-Atlantic passages and model boats.

Of the many galleries in San Jose del Cabo, Galeria Corsica is one of the finest, having been established for over a decade and with outposts in Puerto Vallarta and Mexico City. The gallery specializes in the work of contemporary Mexican artists, including renowned sculptor Jorge Marin and surrealist painter Leonora Carrington, an expat who made Mexico her home for most of her adult life. A wide variety of other artists and genres are represented as well. Seasoned collectors and beginning collectors alike will find plenty of compelling pieces.

We were lying in the sand in Vieques. We’d been told to watch out for horses, but nothing could prepare me for this. What a majestic experience to see wild horses free on the sands of Sun Bay Beach.

Built in 1919, the Condado Vanderbilt Hotel is a Spanish Revival landmark, perched majestically above the Atlantic Ocean. From its opulent lobby to its luxurious guestrooms, the property fuses its storied past—it’s hosted everyone from European and Hollywood royalty to captains of industry—with distinctly modern amenities, making for one of San Juan’s best stays. Spread over a historic building and two towers, the 212 guestrooms feature stone-topped vanities, French windows, and ocean views, while the 107 suites include separate sitting and dining areas, L-shaped balconies, and 24-hour butler service. At the beach club and four pools, guests can also look forward to cabanas, personal butlers to bring refreshments, and assistance from a tanning and hydration specialist.

When hunger strikes, the Vanderbilt is prepared with three different dining options. Hit Tacos & Tequila for escabeche pork tacos and Patron margaritas; Ola Oceanfront Bistro for Puerto Rican cuisine and water views; or, if you’re in the mood to splurge, 1919 Restaurant for sophisticated fare by Michelin-starred chef Juan Jose Cuevas. Also on-site is VC Lounge for expertly mixed cocktails, Marabar Martini Bar and Lounge for live jazz, Veritas Wine and Cognac Bar for rare vintages, and Avo Lounge for fine cigars. When you need to detox, head to the spa for indoor–outdoor treatments, rainforest showers, and hammam rituals.

Take it from a local: If you’re looking to bond with the locals and enjoy some simple fare with lots of taste, drive down to Williche. The family-owned sandwich shop in a street corner in Cabo Rojo is just a block from the town square and a fifteen-minute drive from a couple of beaches.


Williche, a small building with pictures of old Cabo Rojo and slogans proclaiming a love for Puerto Rico, serves you cafeteria-style. It offers juices, different kinds of sandwiches, and milkshakes that are just the right amount of dense. My mom and grandparents started taking me there when I was a kid and I’ve been enjoying their bocadillos ever since. You would expect little (seeing as how they’re basically bread, ham, cheese, onions, tomatoes, and ketchup), but that makes their immense flavor all the more satisfying.


I’ve been living outside of P.R. for more than six years, but every time I come home, I ask my family to stroll down with me by the dominoes-playing older men and to Williche. It’s almost always packed, but I and everyone else know the woman behind the counter (the founder’s daughter). It means we can talk and laugh with her, and get to know anyone else who happens to wander in.


Forget Olive Garden. When you’re in Williche, you’re family.

The mallorca (“my-your-cuh”) is the iconic Puerto Rican sandwich that’s typically eaten at breakfast, washed down with a cup of coffee. When I was in Old San Juan, I had more than my fair share at Cafeteria Mallorca. The mallorca is a soft, buttery bun that’s classically sliced in half, both sides generously buttered and then the sandwich is pressed between the hot steel plates of a griddle. Before serving, it’s generously dusted with powdered sugar. Oh yum! How can you go wrong with butter and sugar? It took me one bite to get hooked and before you know it, I had ordered another one but this time – jamon y queso….ham and cheese. It too came with a generous dusting of powdered sugar. Ham, cheese, sugar. I know, it sounds like an odd combination but don’t knock it til you try it because it’s good, so good, it’s addictive! The bread was slightly crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside. The mallorca was warm, buttery, sweet and savory, every bite made my tastebuds sing with joy! If you decide that mallorcas are not your cup of tea, the menu also offers up eggs, pancakes and cereal along with coffee, tea and juices. Conveniently located in the heart of Old San Juan, Cafeteria Mallorca is a homey and unpretentious place that’s a throwback to the simple cafeterias of days gone by. Great place to bring the kids!

Suppose I told you there was a small, remarkably idyllic and fairly unpopulated island in the Caribbean just a short distance from the mainland United States, an island so immaculate, plans were in the works to make it a National Wildlife Refuge, an island with a beach rated one of the best beaches in the world, an island where you could basically do whatever you wanted along its iridescent shores with little chance of being interrupted by prying eyes.... What’s the first thing you’d do? Well, if you were the U.S. military back in 1901 and the destination in question was the island of Culebra, you’d blow it all to hell! For nearly 75 years, bombs pounded Flamenco Beach on Culebra, la “Última Virgen,” while the U.S. military used it for target practice. Protests drove the Navy away, but some relics remain on the once pristine sands as a reminder of how never to treat one of the best strips of beach in the world. During the weekends, Flamenco Beach can get fairly crowded with “mainland” Puerto Ricans taking the ferry over for a day in the sun, so I recommend you make time during the week for a more secluded experience. There are vendors nearby, but not too near, to make your stay a pleasant one with local cuisine and plenty of ice-cold beer.

Set on two extinct volcanic craters 450 feet above sea level in the highlands of Santa Cruz, the extremely high-end (but still carbon neutral) Pikaia Lodge, which opened in mid-2014, is unlike anything the Galapagos has ever seen. With strict building regulations on the highly fragile islands, Pikaia, owned by a live-aboard dive yacht impresario, was the first lodge to be granted a building permit in more than a decade, and the lodge is built entirely of recycled materials. The terrain, a mix of dry savanna and tropical highland forest, was regenerated with 12,000 endemic trees and grazing habitats for giant tortoises, for which Pikaia created its own private reserve. The entire all-inclusive property is powered with portable Eolic wind generators and soundproof electric generators using clean biodiesel. Despite the ecofriendly ethos of the property, there is no shortage of all-out luxury, from the infinity pool that’s softly illuminated at night, to the cushy spa or the lounge with a 3-D HDTV screen for lectures and videos. There’s also a contemporary restaurant and a wellness center on-site, plus two slick yachts used for excursions to neighboring islands and dive trips.

Set deep in the jungle—about an hour from Cancún and far from the usual beaches and resorts—this adventure park boasts the region’s most impressive ziplines, designed for daredevil travelers in search of real adrenaline rush. Fun-loving guides glide heels-over-head through exuberant foliage along each circuit, from canopy-rope courses and traditional ziplines to a bungee swing and Superman-style flying above the tree line. You can even book packages that include a swim in a nearby cenote, complete with high-dive platform, or a (be forewarned, very dusty) ATV ride.

For a huge selection of fruits and vegetables, artwork and handmade clothes and accessories, visit Puerto Vallarta’s Old Town Farmers Market and Tianguis Cultural. Participating vendors must live or work within 50 kilometers of the markets, so all goods are local. If you’re traveling with kids, be sure to visit the market’s “Children’s Arts and Crafts Area,” where your kids can have their faces painted or participate in an art project. The market is held every Saturday from 9:30am-2:00pm.

One of my favorite places in the whole world—Vieques! I’m actually a little apprehensive to share, because I’d love to keep it the semi-secret it is. If you time it well, you can have this beach all to yourself.