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Like many other Philly institutions, the Philadelphia Zoo is America’s first. It opened in 1874 and encompasses over 40 acres of gardens and exhibits, featuring more than 1,300 animals, including many rare and endangered species. Visitors may need a full day to explore the many exhibits and attractions, and should consider reserving a guided tour to get the most out of their visit. One of the most popular and unique activities is the Zoo Balloon, a tethered hot air balloon that soars 400 feet over the zoo grounds, with spectacular views of the nearby Schuylkill River, Fairmount Park and the Philly skyline. The balloon flies from May through October, weather permitting; check the home page of the zoo’s website on the morning of your visit to see the balloon’s status. The kids can get up close and personal with a variety of creatures at KidZooU, the new children’s zoo and wildlife education center which offers both indoor and outdoor learning experiences. American history and architecture buffs should look for the Frank Furness designed Victorian gates and gatehouses, as well as a very historic home located on the zoo grounds, known as The Solitude. Built in 1784 by John Penn, grandson of William Penn, the Solitude house is a lovely neoclassical manor house and is the only original Penn home remaining in the US. The zoo is open daily from 9:30 to 4.

In 1923, the artist Jacques Majorelle acquired a four-acre plot of land just outside the center of Marrakech. Inspired by numerous travels around the country to paint scenes of village life, and funded by painting more illustrious portraits such as that of Pasha Thami el Glaoui, Majorelle was able to build a small studio and house, with enough land to indulge his other passion: ethnobotany. As his career grew, he added a splendid villa, and the garden took on a life of its own, featuring innumerable exotic species from around the world; he added pools and fountains, and, of course, the now iconic, eye-popping Majorelle blue that was lavished on the architecture. The property became so expensive to maintain that the artist was forced to open it to the public until his death in Paris in 1962. The garden gradually fell into a state of disrepair and was slated for development by a hotel chain until French designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé happened upon it during one of their many trips to the Red City. In 1980, they decided to buy it and restore it to its former glory, adding irrigation and doubling the number of plants and gardeners to look after it. They moved into the villa and set about transforming other buildings into what is now the legendary Berber Museum and a boutique. The latter is especially noteworthy for creative director Stephen di Renza’s commitment to reflecting Majorelle’s lesser-known passion for the decorative arts (which is manifest in the exquisite artisanal pieces, leather goods, and jewelry) and Saint Laurent’s inspired use of traditional Moroccan dress, such as the kaftan and djellaba, in haute couture fashion.

Vero Beach is somewhat off the tourism radar. (Those in the know may like to keep it so.) Vero attracts travelers with its golf courses, beaches and a luxury vibe, coupled with an Old Florida feel. Spend a few days at the Vero Beach Hotel & Spa, and its understated elegance and sense of community will begin to lull you in more deeply. The friendly staff—from the concierge to the desk, valet and housekeeping—offers professional service with genuine warmth. Their local tips and knowledge are gold. The hotel is luxurious yet cozy, from the refined pool to the beachfront fire pit to the comfy “living room,” where guests are invited to enjoy morning coffee or tea and a wine happy hour. Get social--chat with the staff, and share stories with other guests. This same character is found in the spacious suites, with details like robes with zebra stripping, a yoga mat, and Caribbean-style wooden sliders that open to large balconies overlooking the beach or pool. In the morning, wake up to a sunrise amidst a pink and periwinkle sky. At night, fall asleep to the rhythmic lapping of ocean waves on the shore. Hotel amenities include the well-appointed White Orchid Spa, Heaton’s Reef poolside bar, the stylish Cobalt restaurant, as well as a secluded hot tub, a gym, a boutique and a fountain-rimmed, azure pool. The hotel’s location on Ocean Drive is steps away from the beach, shops and restaurants. The hotel is perfect for travelers seeking a winter getaway, a weekend escape or a romantic destination.

Before there were art galleries in Santa Fe, there was La Posada. Built as a private home in the 1880s by wealthy local merchant Abraham Staab for his beloved wife, Julia, the elegant pueblo-meets-Spanish-style complex expanded in the 1930s, when new owners added adobe casitas to the six acres of lush, high-desert gardens—and then invited artists such as Georgia O’Keeffe and Will Shuster to stay and work. When La Posada became a hotel shortly thereafter, the walls were already lined with works by the many artists who continued to pass through. Even now, the lively lounge—a see-and-be-seen spot for artists of all kinds—and the high-ceilinged rooms—with their kiva fireplaces and traditional viga ceilings—are adorned with works by some of the foremost contemporary American artists. All works are available to buy, too, for guests who want to take home a piece of their trip. Or, you can make like most guests, and just keep returning to this refined retreat that has offered respite from the world for more than a century.

Built in 1927, the neo-Gothic structure of the Windsor Arms was intended to resemble the buildings of the University of Toronto. (The hotel is near Victoria College at the university.) The entrance feels like stepping into a castle, the Windsor Arms logo perched neatly beside the portico, doorman at the ready. The hotel was purchased by developer George Friedmann in 1995 and resurrected with modern touches for a fresh debut in 1999. The hotel is birthplace to the idea of the now-famous Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF). It continues to attract celebrities who want a boutique feel, and though TIFF has shifted its headquarters south, the Windsor Arms will always be a refuge for those who want Old World charm and exclusive service. The streetside patio is perfect for people watching during the lively month of September. And in the hotel’s hallways, you can “stargaze” at the portraits of celebrities, from Robert Redford to Barbra Streisand.

I awoke at 6:30 this morning to find this view greeting me from our 12th floor balcony. This is looking eastward across Memorial Drive and Buffalo Bayou Park toward the Houston downtown skyline just about an hour before sunrise. Waking up at this hour every morning to see what uniquely beautiful view the dawn has to offer has become my ritual. So far, no two have been quite the same. A larger version of the photo can be seen by following the link below to my online gallery.

Climb the grand baroque staircase and pass the Jesuit church, cross Gundulić Square, and follow the COLD DRINKS WITH THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VIEW signs. Then, yes, walk through the walls. Buža translates to “a hole-in-the-wall,” and a hole-in-the-wall it is, one that leads to a cliffside ledge with a bar on it. From the moment you order a cool beverage off a simple menu, you begin to unwind. The backdrop to your drink is stunning: a sky-high stone parapet on one side and nothing but the blue sea between you and the horizon. This is the ideal spot for swooning over Adriatic sunsets.

As a travel writer and a kama’aina or “child of the land” in Hawaiian, I know about Waikiki hotels. Growing up not far from the Waikiki of the late 1960’s and 1970’s, I have watched Waikiki transform from a simpler time when there were fewer hotels, showrooms had live entertainment with local celebrity singers and hula dancers performing every night, and a sprinkling of small bars were scattered like shells along the sands of Waikiki. In that long- ago time you could take an evening walk on the beach and listen to the Hawaiian music under the stars.




So much has changed since then. The Waikiki of today along bustling Kalakaua Avenue is such a compacted array of luxury brand stores, chain restaurants, and concept eateries, that some visitors may find it a bit contrary to their idea of relaxation. So they head to an outer island. But enchanting Oahu should not be overlooked because of its popularity, so I’ll tell you about an oceanfront oasis on the beach at Waikiki that you’ll love.


There are two sides to Waikiki: The Diamond Head side, and the Ewa side. The Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort is situated on the Ewa end of Waikiki on what was once referred to as the Kalia area. The famous Hawaiian water-man Duke Kahanamoku, the father of modern surfing, and an Olympic medalist, was born here in this well-populated residential area. There was also a small hotel with thatched roof cottages along the beach called Niumalu Hotel. Decades later in the 1950’s Henry J. Kaiser (and partners) bought most of the land up, negotiated leases, dredged a tidal area and created a lagoon. Then he built rooms, restaurants, and bars, and opened his Hawaiian Village Hotel in September of 1955. Soon he added an incredible marvel of an aluminum dome that was constructed in 20 hours and built as an entertainment venue. He later sold the property to Conrad Hilton.


The Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort has also made changes over the years by revamping its oceanfront 20-acre layout. Because of its size, manicured gardens, several pools, various room types, shopping, a luau venue, and multiple restaurant offerings, all along the largest expanse of Waikiki Beach, it is the only true resort in Waikiki, But I did promise you an oasis. So here is the secret: the Hilton’s Ali’i Tower.



The beachfront Ali’I Tower is a quiet “hotel within a hotel” in the large resort. Guests staying at the Ali’i Tower have their own front desk and concierge, a private pool and deck overlooking the beach, fitness room, and private bar. All of the rooms feature understated design and upscale amenities. Guests sporting their Ali’i Tower bracelet can go to the front of any line at the ever-popular Tropics Bar & Grill or Rainbow Room. Tip: Book the corner Diamond Head Oceanfront rooms on the upper floors. Your two lanais give you an expansive view from Diamond Head, across the surf spots along the reef, all the way to the Tapa Tower and Duke Kahanamoku Lagoon, the marina, and across the ocean to Ewa Beach. Don’t miss the Friday Night Fireworks from your balcony. The Hilton Hawaiian Village has been continuing this beloved tradition since 1988. So settle in at the Ali’i Tower and relax knowing that you have found a slice of the old Waikiki that still exists.

More and more cruise ships are arriving to the well-known Greek islands for day exploration. And while that is a boon to the local economies; crowded restaurants and beaches are not what you have come to experience. Some of these popular islands actually have very few year-round residents as the cruise visits are seasonal. So that “real Greek” town that you came to see, really isn’t. The solution? Try one of the lesser-know but equally beautiful Greek Islands like Ios in the Cyclades Islands. Here you’ll find five-star hotels, mom and pop inns, historical monuments, miles of sparkling beaches, dynamite restaurants, vibrant mountain towns, incredibly reasonable shopping, breathtaking vistas, and local wines, but most of all Ios can be your own paradise. The island of Ios is still a place where real people live and work, but there is plenty of support for tourism (sometimes it’s party central at Mylopotas Beach) and you will find true hospitality, safe streets to wander and new activities like the recently opened hiking path system. Imagine walking at your own pace to archeological sites, beaches, churches and mountain villages just like the early inhabitants did for centuries? The Greek Cultural Mountaineering Club of Fyli has long wanted to repair and connect the ancient paths and a few months ago the project was completed with the help of volunteers and the Municipality of Ios. Over thirteen kilometers of paths are open and well-marked by signs connecting other paths and old roads of Ios for you to enjoy. Not a hiker? The shopping is sublime. Not for the collectors of designer handbags but those desiring handmade leather sandals, precious gem jewelry and smart local-style clothing designs. Lounging by the pool is always a favorite. Stay at the elegant Liostasi Suites and you will be pampered like a jet-setter. Wish for a low-key stay? The Pavezzo Hotel and Suites is painted in beautiful colors and embellished by flowers offering family-style rooms, rooms for one or two and vantage points with sea views set on the side of a mountain with cooling breezes and the friendliest owners. If you are a fan of Greek cuisine there are many terrific restaurants, some right on the ocean like Drakos Taverna at the end of Mylopotas Beach. A favorite in Chora, the town above the Ormos harbor which is completely accessible on foot, is Elia. Visit the cathedral and one of old windmills the island is famous for while wandering the maze of winding stone streets that spill down from top of the hill. Or down in Yialos by the harbor pop into one of the very casual tavernas. Be sure to visit the food shop called Mosenta at the port to watch them create, and for a taste of sesame seed and honey cakes. They also package local wild herbs and make a great body cream that is made from their own honey and olive oils. Insider Tips: Go in Fall for peace and quiet and best rates on rooms. There is no airport so take the ferry from Pireaus, Athens or Santorini. Images Kurt Winner Photography

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Read articles from this print issue of Afar Magazine.