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Could there be a more glorious setting for a cheese’s origin? These pastures surrounding a hilltop village (Gruyères) crowned with a castle (the Château de Gruyères), happy Swiss cows grazing with views of the Alps all around, producing the milk which, in time, arrives on grocery shelves as cheese around the world, stamped ‘GRUYÈRE’...and there’s a geometric garden in the castle’s courtyard, too.

Spa and architecture fans will appreciate 7132 Hotel, in the Swiss village of Vals, which was built with the award-winning thermal baths designed by architect Peter Zumthor. The complex features two hotels: The five-star 7132 Hotel and the four-star house of Architects by 7132. The latter has wings named after the famous architects that designed the rooms in them, including Tadao Ando, Kengo Kuma, Thom Mayne, and Peter Zumthor. Sizes of rooms vary, but they all ooze comfort and quality. The spa is a definite highlight of any stay here, though the hotel’s restaurants are a close second. And yes, hotel guests get free access to the thermal baths.

The tallest international 4-star business hotel in Zurich is also surprisingly appealing for non-business types. The 347 rooms are contemporary and elegant, stacked with modern conveniences like flat screen TVs, Wi-Fi, Nespresso coffee and tea makers, and, of course, large work desks for business travelers. Upper-level rooms come with panoramic views of Zurich and the Swiss Alps.

There’s an expansive spa area on the 32nd floor, which also has killer views, and restaurant Le Muh is a bright, refined space for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Add a hairdresser, café, and shoe shop—all located in the lobby—plus a convention center that holds up to 800, and the result is a business and leisure superstar.

The owners of this bi-level bar in the Prime Tower took great pains to create its visually stunning speakeasy-style décor: the impressive 80-year-old wooden bar and six tons of subway tiles were shipped from New York City. On a recent evening, patrons sipped whiskeys from Japan and ginger wines from Scotland to a soundtrack that ranged from Bob Dylan’s “Mississippi” to Fink’s “Blueberry Pancakes.”

The right bank of the Limmat is home to the busy, cobblestoned Niederdorfstrasse, lined with bustling cafés, bars and restaurants, none more bustling than the sprawling over-a-century-old Johanniter, a can’t-miss-it spot with its giant Swiss and Zurich flags marking its entrance. Inside, patrons dine on huge portions of traditional specialties like raclette (melted cheese served with potatoes and pickled cucumbers and onions) under tall, vaulted ceilings.

The terrace at ETH Zurich—where Einstein was an alum—lords high above the city for catch-your-breath views beyond to the lake and the Alps. A number of trams will take you to the terrace, but the most fun way to get there is on the fire-engine red Polybahn, one of only two funiculars left in the city, and the most conveniently located. It runs every 2.5 minutes from the Central stop.

There’s no better way to take in all Lake Zurich has to offer than by meandering this grand tree-lined walkway along its eastern shores. There’s swimming at the historic Seebad Utoquai, pedal boat rentals, and popular outdoor restaurants like the Pumpstation. For a dose of culture, the Center Le Corbusier showcases the Swiss-born architect’s last structure, a striking steel and glass masterpiece accented by multi-colored panels. Photo © Gaetan Bally/Zürich Tourismus.

By day, this café and bookshop is a lovely place to enjoy an espresso prepared with beans purchased and roasted by H. Schwarzenbach, the Altstadt coffee institution. Come evening, it transforms into a popular bar among the creative types in the neighborhood. The best place to enjoy a beer or two from the nearby TurbinenBräu brewery is under the glass-roofed annex—full of lush plants, tables and chairs in faded primary colors, and a view of the Limmat River.

This five-year pop-up, housed in black-painted metal and glass containers, opened in 2012 with seven boutiques. Among the best is Edition Populaire, which stocks limited edition collections of household and drink items, like a gin and tonic set of Gents tonic made with gentian root from the Swiss Appenzell region and gin from the small Black Forest distillery Monkey 47. Photo © Fabian Fretz/Frau Gerolds Garten.

This sprawling badi on the left side of the lake bears the distinct honor of being the only one in town with a sandy beach. Other draws include a 5-meter tall diving tower, barbecue areas, an expansive green lawn and phenomenal mountain views. While it’s a slight jaunt from the tourist attractions of the Old Town, it’s well situated for other pursuits; the Rietberg Museum and Belvoir Park are just a short stroll away.

This is river swimming at its most civilized. Zurich’s oldest badi, the men-only Männerbad Schanzengraben, is tucked away near the stock exchange and surrounded by the ivy-draped old city wall (you’ll miss it if you don’t look for it). Come evening, the badi transforms into the popular Rimini Bar, where both men and women mingle on floor cushions and rugs lining the pool’s edge.

A midsummer night’s fantasy—Zurich-style. Tucked away near the stock exchange, the city’s oldest badi, the men-only Männerbad Schanzengraben, transforms into the popular Rimini Bar come evening. The scene is surreal: a mixed crowd mingling along the edges of the pool, a shooting fountain, technicolor lights—all surrounded by the ivy-covered old city wall. On Monday evenings, local fashion designers add to the mix by showcasing their creations.

The hip and edgy kids of Zurich West cool off at this graffitied urban badi on the banks of the Limmat River. They’re either sunbathing on the narrow strip of lawn, dangling their legs off the wooden platform, or taking a plunge into the 400-meter long swimming channel. If you want to follow suit on the latter, take caution: currents can get strong. Tamer pursuits include petanque and beach volleyball.

When the Romans arrived here in 15 b.c.e., they brought their thermal bath culture, and you can still see the ruins. But newer bains thermaux also abound. The village of Saillon has a Rivière Thermale, like a water park’s lazy river, lined with grottoes, steam rooms, and saunas. In Ovronnaz, end the day in bubbling thermal pools while watching the alpenglow recede across the mountain range. ovronnaz.ch. This appeared in the January/February 2014 issue.

Located on the shores of Lake Zurich, Fischer’s Fritz restaurant is located on Zurich’s only campground—a favorite camping destination for the well-heeled city dwellers on holiday. The catch comes straight from Lake Zurich; the restaurant employs a fisherman to cast his net daily. Expect whitefish, trout, perk, pike, wels catfish, burbot and jellyfish to dot the menu. Try the fischknusperli (Swiss fish & chips) or Lake Zurich freshwater sushi prepared by a Japan-trained chef.