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  • Av. Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins 933, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
    Chilean “completos” are hot dogs piled high with the works--usually mashed avocado, chopped tomato, optional sauerkraut, and an obscene amount of mayo (maybe 1/3 cup). Actually, eating them is a feat of gravity without the toppings winding up on your shirt, or the ground. Chileans are passionate about their completos and no place draws them in like Dominó, an old-school soda fountain with locales peppering the downtown. Locals crowd around the counter to scarf down these dogs with Coca-Cola or freshly made juice. Various locales throughout downtown (see website)
  • Bandera 347, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
    As the name suggests, you can shout your order from the sidewalk and by the time you get to the counter, they’ve already served up your empanadas. Try the time-tested caldo mayo, a house-specialty beef broth that’s a perfect hangover remedy, especially with spicy salsa de ají, or hot pepper salsa, on top. Members of the Chilean judiciary are often seen here having a tintito, a dainty glass of red wine, before beginning the day’s proceedings. El Rapido opened in the thirties and has been operating ever since—don’t miss this quaint and tasty bit of history.
  • Bandera 347, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
    Every day 2,000 empanadas are freshly made at this historic food landmark on the corner of Bandera and Huérfanos in El Centro. Santiaguinos pop in for a gooey fried cheese empanada slathered in hot chili sauce, piping hot. Stand in at the counter and order a “Pap” soda, flavored with Chilean papaya like the locals. Bandera 347, almost corner Huérfanos Phone: 56(2) 2672 2375
  • Amanda Labarca 102, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
    Just a block away from the Palacio de la Moneda, the Chilean Government Palace, this culinary oasis offers tasty treats and killer coffee in a downtown setting. Known for its breakfasts, burgers, tea time, and heady java, you can rub elbows with local politicians fueling during the work week. Blue Jar is also one of the few coffee spots to sell the coveted “Keep Cups,” to keep your latte warm for the road. Almirante L. Gotuzzo 102 at Moneda Phone: 56 (2) 2696-1890
  • Isidora Goyenechea 2872, Las Condes, Región Metropolitana, Chile
    If you have time, you could travel nearly two hours south of the capital into wine country to dine at the outstanding Miguel Torres restaurant near Curicó, part of this Spanish winery’s headquarters--or you could dine at their outpost in the upscale area known as El Golf. The focus is on blending seasonal Chilean ingredients to showcase their ample portfolio of wines with small plates and tasting glasses rather a full meal. For any meal, be sure to kick off with their pink sparkler, Santa Digna Estelado made from the traditional “país” grape. The winery supports many small, organic producers to make their wines and this is just one example. Salud! Isidora Goyenechea 2874, Las Condes Phone: 56 (2) 2245 7338 Photo: Miguel Torres Chile
  • Av. Providencia 2348, Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile
    Chileans love “completos,” hot dogs with the works. Hogs took this concept and made it gourmet. Think hot dogs made with venison, lamb, pure frank, even rabbit. Then top it with items like caramelized onions, blue cheese, avocado, barbeque sauce, etc. The place is casual and standing room only to eat. Los Leones 40 (almost with Av. Providencia), Providencia (new location opening in Barrio Lastarria pronto!) Phone: 2235-4593
  • San Fernando, O'Higgins Region, Chile
    I don’t know whether it was the early morning fog, the rolling hills surrounding the vineyard, or the grapes themselves that made me do a double-take: Was I really in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, or was I back in California’s Sonoma Valley? With its intoxicating location and old world charm, Casa Silva (the colonial-style inn that sits in the midst of the family vineyard) has the best of both. It’s a place to relax, tour the surrounding vineyards, and – naturally -- drink their own varietals (especially the Sauvignon Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and Petit Verdot). With only seven rooms, Casa Silva sits somewhere between a B&B and a guest house, with shabby chic rooms that are a throwback to Chile’s colonial era. We snagged room no. 4, with high ceilings and a comfy four-poster bed as well as an oversized bathroom. While the inn itself is special, the restaurant is worth a visit on its own. It has a clubhouse feel, overlooking the family polo field, but with unique and breathtaking views of the Andes. Hotel guests can take a leisurely 20-minute walk through the vineyard to the restaurant, which features Chilean specialties like conger eel, queso fresco, and tuna ceviche in one of the most dramatic settings I’ve ever enjoyed. (And don’t pass up the mote con huesillos, aka “wheat berry peach dessert.”) Finally, not to be missed: the tour of Vina Casa Silva, which houses one of Chile’s most up-to-date wine facilities and the family’s collection of perfectly restored antique cars.
  • Rosal 386, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
    Chilean wine is having a moment, with vintners discovering the myriad terroirs in the country spanning over 10 latitudes from the Pacific to the Andes--with over two dozen grape varietals. Many of the most avant-garde projects are small producers making garage or even underground wines alongside the reference wines. Enter Santiago Wine Club. The owners, two wine-loving friends (one French, one Chilean), teamed up to bring these inspiring wines to their loyal patrons in Barrio Lastarria. Arranged by valley, their are obscure, fun, serious wines for everyone. Owners are usually at the store and know their wines well. Perfect for any wine lover or drinker to take a bottle home--or drink while in town. Rosal 386, almost corner Victoria Subercaseux, Barrio Lastarria Phone: 56 (2) 2632 6596
  • local F2 - Merced 346, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
    Chilean society is quite conservative by many standards with the younger generations finally starting to cut loose. Get more playful. Be expressive. US expat Jayne Morgan saw the opportunity to fill the niche for erotic toys in the capital, starting as private bachelorette parties. The idea was a runaway success and she’s expanded to now have two stories in Providencia and Barrio Lastarria to satisfy the demand. Sex toys, games, outfits, and erotic books, all imported of high quality and good taste, are all laid in her attractive stories with attentive staff. Monjitas 580, 2nd Floor (in Bar The Clinic Building) Phone: 56 (2) 2632 5988
  • Frutillar, Los Lagos Region, Chile
    This little village fuels many a Chilean’s vision of the south—Germanic towns nestled among sapphire-hued lakes—and is often synonymous with summer vacation. Frutillar, just north of Puerto Varas, seems to be straight from Bavaria with its majestic “casonas,” built in the German tradition—a nod to the strong ancestry and settlement in the region. Frutillar’s lakefront has black-sand beaches, the shimmering lake dotted with white swans, magnificent views of the Osorno volcano, manicured lawns, and darling boutiques and cafes along the town’s streets. During the last week of January and first week of February, music lovers flock to Frutillar for the classical music festival where maestros from all over the world play in the Teatro del Lago, with some of the best acoustics in Chile. Besides strolling the relaxed lakefront, Frutillar is perfect to stop for a coffee and “kuchen,” a delectable German cake found throughout the lake district made with seasonal fruit.
  • Sector San José, Castro, Región de los Lagos, Chile
    The first luxury lodge to come to Chile’s second biggest island, Tierra Chiloé opened in 2012 and became a member of the Tierra hotel group in 2014. Designed by Chilean architect Patricio Browne, the hotel looks like a boat on stilts and was inspired by the homes of local fishermen, which take the same form and are known as palafitos. The exterior is made from picturesque larch wood shingles—a building technique that’s very typical on Chiloé and is seen on the famous UNESCO World Heritage churches that dot the islands.

    Inside, guests find more wood. The hotel’s wood walls and ceilings are made from indigenous species . The decorations are locally inspired with plenty of handicrafts such as wicker baskets, handwoven rugs, and wooden carvings. The focal point is the meadow and Reloncaví Sound below, where the hotel’s boat is harbored. Large windows line the building on both floors and provide excellent views. Guests can relax in a small spa, a winetasting room, or a book-filled upstairs studio upstairs. The living room with fireplace makes a perfect spot for an end-of-day pisco sour.
  • In 1998, former Chilean dictator Augusto Pinochet was arrested in England at The London Clinic. A month later, satirical, left-leaning newspaper The Clinic was born. The newspaper’s namesake bar in the Lastarria area, housed in a gorgeous Baroque building, is constantly sporting zingers directed at many Chilean public figures. The Clinic is THE spot in Lastarria to toss back some cocktails or beers among hipsters. Every night it’s slammed. While they put on a weekend brunch and executive menu at lunch, it’s not about the food. It’s the cool scene. Monjitas 578, almost corner Miraflores Phone: 56(2) 2266 4440
  • Chile 898, M5500 Mendoza, Argentina
    Go Bar occupies an old colonial house on a leafy Mendoza street (formerly Winery & Company). Its old, worn wooden floors speckled with sunlight have just the right vintage feel for wine browsing. It’s several rooms are stacked with wrought iron shelves featuring the region’s numerous wine labels. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable and will give you the perfect packaging to carry wines in your suitcase back home. Chile 898 (corner of Montevideo)
  • Merced
    This acclaimed ice cream parlor with more than 15 locations (most Santiago malls have one) dishes out every imaginable flavor. Regulars crave dulce de leche, lifted from the namesake caramel dessert. Or try the Chilean classic called café helado, a tall glass of strong, chilled coffee with a scoop of ice cream at the bottom and whipped cream on top. ¡Ay, yi, yi! A rare spot for decaf coffee, as well as sugar-free and gluten-free treats, La Rosa serves breakfast, lunch, and high tea.
  • Santiago, Lo Barnechea, Región Metropolitana, Chile
    Want to try hearty, rustic specialties that are considered true Chilean cooking? Look no further. This sprawling place on the outskirts of the city, in the foothills of the Andes, is a winner. Agustina Gómez de Olivares (aka Doña Tina), now 72, started decades ago selling “pan amasado,” homemade dimpled bread along the road. Years later, the whole family is involved. She’s stickler for seasonality so visit her during the summer months when corn is in season to try the heavenly national dish “pastel de choclo” or “humitas,” fresh corn tamales with basil. However, faithful capitalinos make the schlep east for her baked beef empanadas with juicy stuffing. Camino Los Refugios del Arrayán 15125, Lo Barenechea Phone: 56 (2) 2321 6546