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Once Istanbul’s notorious prison, a lavish conversion in 1996 transformed this site, set amid the squiggle of lanes behind the colossal competing domes of the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, into the city’s landmark Four Seasons Sultanahmet. Built in 1918, the hotel’s ornate neoclassical architecture has been finely restored, while the enclosed exercise yard is now a courtyard garden where guests can escape the hustle of the historic quarter. Classically designed rooms are awash with light blue and green hues and subtly scattered Turkish textiles and motifs.

On a hot summer’s day, cool off with cocktails overlooking the old city’s minarets on the rooftop A’Ya Lounge. Eagle-eyed history fans can hunt for the 1938 graffiti left by a former inmate on a pillar near the courtyard. Being neighbors with the Hagia Sophia has extra benefits. The Four Seasons’ Extraordinary Experiences service offers a privileged chance to explore Emperor Justinian’s greatest achievement without the crowds, on an after-dark tour of the Hagia Sophia.

Adorned with more than 20,000 blue handcrafted İznik tiles, stained-glass windows, and the golden brushstrokes of a 17th-century calligrapher, the Blue Mosque is the legacy of Sultan Ahmet I (1590–1617). The young sultan audaciously wished to outdo the builders of Hagia Sophia, commissioning six minarets to match the number at Mecca’s Sacred Mosque (which now has seven minarets as a result). Today, this magnificent mosque is a place of worship for thousands who visit from around the world.

When the sun finally dips behind the minaret skyline and the moon starts to rise, Sultanahmet Park—between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia—brightens up with a colourful lighting display. In summer enjoy the show by savoring a creamy Turkish ice cream (dondurma) by the illuminated fountain and people watch Istanbul‘s international guests from one of the park benches.

Why we love it: A top-notch glamping resort near the Grand Canyon’s South Rim entrance

Highlights:
- Spacious, cabin-style safari tents with king beds and stoves
- Adventure concierges to help make the most of your Grand Canyon visit
- An on-site restaurant that serves all three meals

The Review:
Open from early April to mid-November, this resort pitches luxurious, cabin-style tents on the striking pink-and-scarlet desert. Even the basic Safari tents feature king-size beds and wood-burning stoves, though guests who opt for these accommodations must use the communal bathhouse for hot showers and flushing toilets. Suites up the ante with en suite bathrooms and private decks, while Stargazer options include king-size beds under arched viewing windows.

While Under Canvas goes light on brick-and-mortar amenities, it delivers plenty in the way of rustic charm and modern conveniences. Expect daily housekeeping, organic bath products, and USB battery packs in your tent, plus complimentary camp activities and a fire pit with nightly s’mores. The adventure concierges can also arrange hiking, mountain-biking, horseback-riding, and white-water rafting excursions as well as canyon helicopter tours and Jeep safaris in the Kaibab National Forest, during which guests can spot elk and turkey while exploring native petroglyphs, old stagecoach trails, and the area’s spectacular geology. When hunger strikes, head to the on-site restaurant for everything from breakfast burritos and boxed lunches to pan-roasted trout and grass-fed burgers.

Intricate textiles woven on looms handed down through generations. An array of laurel, olive, and lavender bath products and the hammered bowls to hold them. Silk shawls with which to drape the color of the Aegean in a graceful arc below bare shoulders. All organic and produced locally, with the specific intent of preserving a dying art. Jennifer’s Hamam works with traditional Turkish weavers to produce luxuriously looped Turkish towels, flat-woven pestamels (the towels and wraps used in hamams, similar to a sarong), and fine silks woven from hand-spun thread. Looms are passed from one generation to the next. New designs evolve over time. Part entrepreneur and part preservationist, Jennifer and her staff are generous with their knowledge and delight in sharing their affordable luxuries. Wander, shop, and emerge enlightened. Accessibility: A wheeled walker can easily maneuver the main path of the Arasta Bazaar.

Opened in 2009, this light-filled megamall draws a staggering 25 million annual visitors to its shops and attractions. It can be overwhelming, so it helps to consult the online directory in advance and approach this city-within-a-city with a game plan. Shops include familiar international brands (Adidas to Marks & Spencer to Zara) and Turkish ones, such as Atasay Jewelry, Bilik Deri leather goods, and Van Hatemoğlu for menswear. Forum Istanbul also offers plenty for the kids to enjoy. At the Turkuazoo Aquarium, you can view 10,000 sea creatures and even dive with the sharks, if you’re game. (There are discounts on entry fees to some attractions with the Museum Pass.) You also have your pick of old-school family activities like 10-pin bowling, mini golf, a mirror maze, and movie showings. To reach Forum Istanbul, you can take the Metro from Aksaray station to Kocatepe/Kartaltepe; the train stops right outside.

Hotel Empress Zoe, owned by American sisters Christina and Ann, is a little oasis nestled on old Istanbul’s most vibrant cobblestone streets. The hotel, just five minutes from the Blue Mosque and Aya Sophia, has 26 rooms featuring authentic Turkish furnishings, folkloric art, and marble hammam-style bathrooms in a setting resonating that of a charming Byzantine fortress. The décor throughout packs tons of character from the front door to the bar and restaurant area, right through to the villas and suites that line a tranquil archeological garden backing onto the stone ruins of the 15th-century Isak Pasha Hammam. Rest in this enchanting courtyard, and you’ll forget you’re even in Istanbul. The hotel also has a small rooftop terrace with views to the Marmara Sea and the minarets of the Sultanahmet area. Access to the rooms are via a spiral staircase, so those with mobility problems may wish to talk to management about their needs before securing bookings. Check their website for room styles, photos and pricing.

With only 48 hours to spend in Istanbul, you really don’t want to have a bad meal. Doing my research before we left, one place that kept turning up with names like “Best Meals of 2012,” My Last Meal on Earth Would Be,"—plus recommendations from trusted friends—was Çiya. After a leisurely morning wander around the seaside neighborhood of Ortaköy, we hopped on a ferry, grabbed a glass of hot tea, and headed to the Asian side of Istanbul. In Kadıköy we found young buskers playing traditional music on almost every corner, and vegetable and fish sellers shouting the praises of their wares. And all of the sidewalk cafes were full. Çiya is spread out over three locations. We had the difficult choice of choosing one of them. We picked Çiya kebap. We ordered a thin and spicy lahmacun—a kind of turkish pizza—to start and then moved on to our meaty mains: Ayvalý Taraklý, an intense dish of tiny lamb chops smothered in a pomegranate and fresh quince sauce; a classic kebap plate with hand-minced lamb with lots of fresh mint; Kağıt Kebap, a spicy hand-minced lamb and hot chili pepper kebab. We were seated on the second floor with a view of the original Çiya Sofrasi, and we watched as plates from the two restaurants were passed back and forth. After all that food, the sun broke through the clouds, and we headed back out to the streets—to the crowds of Sunday shoppers and the sounds of the muezzin call.

Immerse yourself in clothes, shoes, bags, costumes, and accessories of bygone eras at By Retro in Suriye Passage, off Istiklal Street. This expansive basement shop is a wondrous labyrinth of vintage and retro treasures that feels more like a big kid’s dress-up box than a thrift shop. Take a trip back in time here—it will surely captivate vintage and retro fashion lovers for hours.

Take a break from shopping along Istiklal Street at Hala, which specializes in authentic home-cooked Anatolian cuisine. You know you’ve found it when you see women with white headscarfs kneading dough in the front window. They’re preparing and cooking Turkish savory pancakes called gözleme. Hala is a great place to try gözleme along with other traditional staples like Ali Nazik kebabs and manti (meat dumplings served with yogurt and oil, caramelized with tomato paste, and seasoned with mint and red pepper). Wash it all down with a glass of Ayran, a salty yogurt drink adored by many Turks.

For a Saturday night out, many locals will head to Beyoğlu’s liveliest street, Nevizade, lined with meyhanes (taverns) and bars where mezes (starters) and seafood are peddled openly and the rakı (aniseed liquor) and Efes beer flow freely. Highlights of a night here are the musicians who roam playing fasıl tunes (classical Turkish music) accompanied with darbuka (drums), violin, clarinet, and the kanun (a triangular-shaped string instrument that sits on the lap or a table). If they come to your table and play a song or two, it’s customary to tip them 10-15T lira. It’s also customary that if you do not wish to part with your money, you politely gesture them to move on before a note is played. Judging by the number of explanatory brackets in this article, a night on Nevizade is a cultural experience and a great way to immerse yourself in local nightlife. Be wary, though—like any crowded place in any part of the world, Nevizade does get very busy, so keep an eye on your valuables. To find Nevizade, walk along Istiklal Caddesi and turn onto Balik Sokak near Çiçek Passage. Nevizade runs off Balik Sokak on the right.

Imagine waking up in an opulent cream- and café-colored boutique bedroom with regal gold gilding. Picture a leisurely morning with a hearty Turkish breakfast on a rooftop terrace with views to Topkapi Palace, the Aya Sophia, and Bosporus Bridge. Sounds divine right? Well it is—because that’s what life has to offer when staying at the White House Hotel in Sultanahmet. The 22-room Ottoman-style hotel with modern comforts is close to some of the best restaurants in town, the Sultanahmet tram station, and all the major tourist landmarks of Old Istanbul. General Manager and Owner Harun Çadırcı and his team are onsite to provide personalized services that have earned them awards. Complimentary transfers from Ataturk Airport are available for stays of three nights or more, and if you’re celebrating a special occasion, be sure to let the hotel know so they can recommend restaurants and activities to make your stay extra special. The hotel has standard double rooms as well as luxury superior, triple, and family rooms available. Check their website for more details.

The Maiden’s Tower, which seemingly floats in the Bosphorus off Asia, is one of the more popular symbols of the city. Once a Byzantine tollbooth and later an Ottoman lighthouse, it’s most famous for a legend involving a princess and a prophecy that she would die from a snakebite. Her father exiled her to the tower in the hope of protecting her but, alas, the prophecy could not be avoided—a snake made its way to the island, either in a bouquet of flowers or a basket of grapes (depending on the version of the tale).

The medieval round Galata Tower built in 1348 has played many roles for Istanbul over the years: A watchtower for Bosphorus trade, an observation deck for spotting fires, the setting of a legendary flight across the Bosphorus, and now a tourist attraction offering 360 degree views of Istanbul. Hands down, it’s the best way to see how the city spreads across its European and Asian sides. Go for sunset, but arrive early to beat the queue.

If these walls could talk they’d recite plans for military campaigns and tales of love, lust and betrayal that make this former residence and imperial seat of the Ottoman Empire so intriguing. Walk the dazzling tile-and-mosaic-lined corridors, see the jewels the sultans wore, the baths where they washed, the rooms where they entertained, the quarters that housed their concubines, and the kitchens that created feasts for 5,000 residents.