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Overview

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent CNN political commentator Sally Kohn on 24 hours’ notice to a city renowned for its “coffee shops” but where tolerance has its limits.

Philip Glass: On Tour, Not a Tourist

Where to eat, according to a chef.

One of the most dynamic conductors in the world of classical music, Alondra de la Parra, shares how music focuses her travel and informs her creative vision.

These companies will help you explore and trace your ancestry.

An independent traveler walks up the cruise ship gangplank to find herself part of a floating community.

AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent writer Jonathan Gold on a spontaneous journey to Prague with just 24 hours’ notice.

São Paulo is one of the world’s largest cities and the largest city in South America. It’s also home to huge Japanese and Italian populations (a result of immigration in the early 20th century as São Paulo was an important part of the coffee industry). The city is known for its variety of food, nightlife, and culture, including art and museums. It’s also a great place to experience Brazil’s indoor and outdoor markets and see some very cool architecture thanks to Oscar Niemeyer’s work here.

A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

Far above the plains where lions roam, there’s another Kenya, where life moves slowly and the people run fast. Writer Matt Gross tries to keep up.

After hearing so much about the huge Municipal Market in downtown Sao Paulo, I was excited to visit a slightly smaller version in Lapa, one of Sao Paulo’s central districts. I wanted to see not just the array of food but also Brazilians going about their daily routines. The market didn’t disappoint.

Like their European counterparts, Brazil’s indoor markets serve as a one-stop shop where people can eat, drink coffee, and buy fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and even gifts. During my two visits to this market, I watched as salted cod and huge Kalamata olives were chosen for a Sunday feast. I tasted cheeses and bought fresh fruits. I waited while my in-laws picked out party decorations. I watched vendors busily working and yelling to each other. I also watched vendors stop and interact with my children, and I chatted with old women about my kids--Brazilians love kids and enjoy conversation.

For a slice of Brazilian life and a close-up view of Brazilian food, this locals-only market is worth a stop.

Anyone who has been to Brazil knows that the country has fantastic open-air markets, known as feiras in Portuguese. They often feature a combination of handicrafts, antiques, live music, dancing, and street food. The market on Saturdays at Praça Benedito Calixto in São Paulo is no exception, but this one is almost unknown to tourists. Older Paulistanos (as Sao Paulo residents are called) sell beautiful antiques that reflect the city’s cultural ties to Europe. Artisans sell colorful woven clothing, handmade leather shoes, jewelry made from açaí seeds, baskets and mobiles made from recycled magazines, and much more. In the center of the market is a square of food and drink vendors, selling food from Northeastern Brazil, dried fruits, coconut water, and other typical Brazilian street food. In the early afternoon, live chorinho music begins and the square soon fills with people dancing. This outdoor market is much more than a place for people to shop—it’s a place for people to relax and have fun. The market runs every Saturday 9:00 a.m.-7:00 p.m. The streets surrounding the market have many good restaurants, and the neighboring street of Teodoro Sampaio is known for its shops selling traditional Brazilian musical instruments. There are parking garages nearby; the market can also be reached by bus or by subway (Clinicas station).

I love exploring the markets in São Paulo. There are many, some big and some small, but my latest discovery is the big one on Sundays in Praça da República in the center of the city, very close to the famous Italian and Copan buildings. This lively market takes place around one of the city’s historic buildings. Artisans sell their work, and there’s a nice selection of handicrafts, jewelry, and other typically Brazilian goods for sale. There is a large food area with tables, live music, and vendors selling traditional Brazilian street food, including the specialties of Bahia. If you take the subway, get off at the Republica station. The market takes place during the first half of the day on Sundays.