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Think of it as a Baltic Barneys or a Swedish Selfridges: NK is the city’s finest department store, a landmark slap bang in the middle of everything. It sells a great mix of Swedish and international brands, though people also come here to dine at the top floor restaurants and cafés.

The thousands of islands that make up the Stockholm archipelago have something for everyone. Many are tiny and uninhabited. Some, like Sandhamn, are crowded all summer long and attract hundreds of private sailboats. You can find great food and great places to swim or stroll, and also hotels, hostels, and wooden cabins in which to overnight. You need half a day at the bare minimum to experience the archipelago proper, but if time is short take a ferry to Fjäderholmarna, which is very close to the center. There you can enjoy a waterside meal and get a taste of archipelago living.

Perched on a rocky outcrop above Östermalm, this is perhaps Stockholm’s most beautiful church, and certainly one of its largest. Completed in 1914, its stunning interior and exterior include elements of Art Nouveau and National Romantic styles. It is also home to an impressively large church organ and hosts regular concerts. It’s worth trekking up the stone steps to enjoy the building and the views.

Industrialization came late to Sweden, which may explain why locals have retained a love for traditional crafts. Come here for well-priced goods made from natural materials—everything from scrubbing brushes and birdhouses to bread boards and table linens—that will add a bit of Scandinavian charm to any home.

The country’s most famous interior design store has been shaping Swedish tastes for decades (the founder, Estrid Ericsson, was an early proponent of all-white walls). Particularly popular are the fabulous fabrics designed by Austrian émigré Josef Frank. There’s also a tiny, but charming, tea shop on the upper floor.

Whether you want a new handbag or gloves, Palmgrens is the place for excellent leather goods. The store has been open since 1896, but they’ve changed with the times by adding items such as iPad cases and hot-pink make-up bags to their covetable inventory.

These days, a hip design hotel isn’t worth its salt unless it’s also home to an almost painfully trendy bar. But when Story Hotel first opened in 2009, on the border of two of Stockholm’s coolest neighborhoods, it set the standard to which all of the city’s subsequent boutique hotels would be held. The Story formula is deceptively simple: take one historic building in an achingly cool European capital and strip it down to exposed brick and concrete, and original hardwood floors, before decorating it with a sleek, unpretentious style that epitomizes Scandinavian design. Add a sprinkling of colorful graffiti art, and pair faded Persian rugs with collaged photographs and leather chairs. Make sure some rooms are small and affordable, while others are spacious and decadent.

The cuisine needn’t be fancy, but it ought to be high quality, just as the cocktails must be inventive and delicious. And don’t let the DJ-accompanied scene turn pretentious; everyone should feel welcome, and among friends. Story’s formula works, and there’s a reason this original boutique hotel is still one of Stockholm’s best.

The idea behind this store was to give new designers a forum to sell their creations. Much of what’s on is fun and affordable, which means it is the ideal place to find a unique Scandinavian souvenir like bicycle earrings by Julia Nielsen or a colorful plaid pillow by Simon Key Bertman. (Nybrogatan 16, plus several other locations.)

Tucked under the Royal Palace, Sweden’s oldest museum is one of the city’s lesser-known gems, housing a wealth of royal paraphernalia. Opera fans will be particularly fascinated by the clothes that King Gustav III was wearing when he was murdered at a masked ball in 1792—the assassination that inspired Verdi’s Un Ballo in Maschera.

After Carcassonne in southwest France, Visby lays claim to the most important and best-preserved medieval city walls in all of Europe. The town’s citizens began building the original six-meter-high (20-foot) fortified walls in the 13th century, and they eventually grew to over 11 meters (36 feet). Today, the wall still stretches for 3.4 kilometers (2.1 miles). Walk in its shadow and explore the 36 intact medieval towers as well as numerous gateways. The North Gate offers the most impressive view of the wall, providing a sense of its enormous scale. St. Mary’s Cathedral, a few blocks inland, also dates to the 13th century.

Stallmästaregården began its life as a somewhat rural stablemaster’s farm. This was before Queen Kristina decided, in 1645, that she wanted to host her midsummer festivities here, at which point the stablemaster rapidly transformed the farm into an inn. Now, despite being within the city limits, Stallmästaregården feels like a rural retreat, flanked as it is by the expansive Royal Haga Park and scenic Brunnsviken Bay, in addition to its own verdant gardens. A painstaking restoration and redesign has left the onetime farm still rustic and homey, true to its 17th-century inn background, while simultaneously infusing it with healthy doses of both midcentury and contemporary Scandinavian design. The true star is the restaurant, an unpretentiously stylish destination that serves gourmet Swedish cuisine to discerning locals and out-of-towners against a picturesque natural backdrop. But the best part comes when everyone goes home and the inn is left to the guests.

The Bean Counter is a locally owned café in the heart of Georgetown. This small, cozy eatery with chartreuse walls is a neighborhood favorite. Stop by for a quick breakfast or come for lunch, when you’ll find a nice selection of soups, salads, and made-to-order sandwiches and wraps. If you want to do like the locals, try the laudable Cuban sandwich. In the afternoon, the Bean Counter is the perfect place for a cup of freshly brewed organic, fair-trade coffee and a homemade cookie. Order at the counter and then slip out through the narrow side alley to enjoy the secret garden in the back.

Swedish summer is usually an idyllic time. Days are long and hot, nights are short and warm. Most Swedes take the whole of July as vacation, and many Stockholmers leave the city for their country houses or boats. Those who remain enjoy alfresco dining and drinking, and Mälarpaviljongen is one of the best: an all-day café-bar with several floating pontoons. There’s nowhere nicer to sit with a glass of rosé and views over the water. Mixed during the day, it’s one of the city’s best gay bars by night.

Frederiksholms Canal is a small canal that is connected to Copenhagen Harbor and which surrounds and creates the small island of Slotsholmen. Slotsholmen is significant because it serves as home to Christiansborg Palace, the seat of the Danish Parliament, as well as museums, and the Royal Danish Library. More than just a glorified moat, the canal has a number of historical boats moored along its banks and serves as a lovely spot to enjoy the Danish weather. For a quirky surprise look into the canal’s depths just off of Højbro bridge for an other-worldly piece of submerged art.

Designed by Gunnar Asplund, one of the big names of 20th-century Swedish architecture, this beautiful graveyard is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the final resting place of actress Greta Garbo. A wonderfully peaceful combination of great architecture and shady woodlands, there’s nothing gloomy about this extraordinary resting place. In fact, an hour or so spent walking here is bound to lift the spirits.