Search results for

There are no boats here, where the Han River flows into the Yellow Sea--this is the watery mine-laden western limit of the DMZ. On a trip to Korea in the mid-1990’s, one of my uncles took us to visit Aegibong, a 500-ft.-high hill that presides over the estuary. From the top of the hill we could see across and into North Korea. The first thing that struck me was the lack of trees--the mountainsides are completely deforested, except for the inaccessible fringe of riverbank. As far as we could see on this clear early autumn day, the slopes above the golden rice paddies were denuded of trees. When the wind blew in the right direction, we could hear propaganda from the loudspeakers on the north bank. A few months later, Kim Il Sung would die, and the North Korean famine would intensify; it’s estimated that up to 1 in 10 North Koreans perished during the mid-to-late 1990’s...all of this while Seoul, just to the southeast of the scene in this photo, would continue to grow into one of the most vibrantly capitalistic cities anywhere... South Korea would morph into the most Internet-connected country in the world, while the North would devolve into a place where doctors have to scrounge in the hills for edible weeds...

In addition to Slow Bakery’s celebrated original coffee shop, bakery, and deli in Botafogo (Rio’s answer to NYC’s Soho), a new location in Ipanema (Rua Barao da Torre, 422) opened in August. The new space will limit itself to selling natural-yeast bread, further simplifying the original bakery’s slow-food ethos. This idea is that if you’re looking for a delicious coffee or a quick lunch, you will go to the original Slow Bakery, but if you just want a loaf of your favorite bread, head to the new shop, near Posto 10 on Ipanema Beach and a few blocks from the Nossa Senhora da Paz metro station.

It’s often a surprise for visitors to Berlin to discover that Turkish postwar immigrants created the popular döner kebab here. The city takes its kebabs seriously, and there are several hot spots whose reputation precedes them. One such is Mustafa’s in West Berlin, which has reached a kind of cult status as much for its vegetable (gemüse) kebabs as for its chicken ones. Every day around lunchtime the modest stall has lines that stretch along the road, as people wait patiently for a crispy pita filled with the special mix of vegetables, salad, and homemade sauces, topped off with crumbled goat cheese. Get here outside peak mealtimes if you want to avoid the crowds.

A trio of 1830s townhouses, Soniat House exudes an Old World elegance, from its wrought iron balconies to its white-jacketed porters. Rooms and suites have just the right amount of character so that they feel of an era without being precious or overly frilly. The hotel renovated all of its bathrooms and some guest rooms, and there are flat-screen televisions, Wi-Fi, and other modern conveniences—but the point here is really to take a step back, put your gadgets away, and enjoy the leafy courtyard. It’s the kind of place where you feel you ought to be wearing a frock and a fascinator (for ladies) or seersucker (for the gents), where time slows and an afternoon cocktail feels very appropriate. Luckily, there’s an honor bar on the first floor next to reception. Pour yourself a stiff drink and take it up to the veranda, where you might catch a ghost tour in progress or just take in the street scene.

I hadn’t been awake for longer than a minute. I peeled back the tarp door to my room, walked out onto my deck, and leapt. It was an abrupt but purifying way to start the day. The cool, brackish water instantly defogged my mind, and my eyes opened to see the surrounding Tatai River and dense Cambodian rain forest. A lone sampan, anchored along an islet, was the only man-made object to interrupt the natural scenery. My chic bungalow lightly swayed on the calm water behind me, an incongruous encampment against the wild jungle backdrop.

Located on the southern tip of the Cardamom Mountains, near the Gulf of Thailand, the 4 Rivers Floating Lodge lives up to its name. The retreat’s 12 landless suites all float on their own buoyant platforms, moored to the riverbank. Outfitted with a ceiling fan, armoire, and wood-paneled shower, each of the towering, safari-style tented rooms also provides a nearly 360-degree view of the tropical landscape. A boardwalk connects the rooms to a central lounge and dining area decorated in a muted variety of Miami Beach sleek.

At first blush, getting to this secluded outpost might seem daunting. Guests can arrive by boat, drive, come by cab or take a bus from Phnom Penh: I took a five-hour bus trip from Phnom Penh, followed by a half-hour longboat ride from the village of Tatai. But the journey is well worth the peaceful reward. The Cardamom Mountains contain the largest and most intact evergreen rain forest in mainland Southeast Asia. For decades, the region was largely off-limits to developers because of land mines and fighting between government forces and the Khmer Rouge militia. This very isolation protected the area’s natural habitat, which is now home to scores of endangered species, including Asian elephants, hairy-nosed otters, and Siamese crocodiles.

Mine-clearance efforts and the end of hostilities have made travel here safe for more than 10 years, but it remains a sparsely populated frontier. The area’s remoteness is remarkable in and of itself. In the afternoon, I took a boat ride to the Tatai waterfall with several other guests. Even our skipper, a young Cambodian man who leads visitors on these trips every day, was still in awe of the lush surroundings. “So quiet and beautiful,” he said, looking at the palm trees along the river’s edge. After we arrived at our destination, I spent the rest of the day sitting beneath the waterfall’s forceful but soothing cascades, letting nature’s masseuse relax my muscles.

I returned to the lodge for dinner beneath an orange and purple sunset. On the restaurant’s uncovered patio, the only sound accompanying the clang of my utensils was the soft splash of kingfishers swooping to pluck fish from the river. I was less delicate, digging into skewers of mozzarella, watermelon, and fresh shrimp and a plate of steamed river fish topped with a basil cream sauce. In the lingering twilight, I sipped a gin and tonic on my private terrace before easing under my bedsheets. As the gently undulating waters rocked me to sleep, any illusions I had about roughing it in the wilderness drifted away. —Brendan Brady

Like the Irish pubs of the motherland, the New Sydney Hotel is warm and welcoming to all. More than two dozen tap beers—one pumped by hand—and artisan ciders are complemented by mulled pinot noir (spiced with cardamom, cinnamon, star anise, cloves, and house-made syrup) as well as hot cider (Willie Smith’s organic cider plus ginger syrup and dark rum) in winter. Sip one alongside wallaby tartare or pork knuckle slow-cooked for 72 hours. Like any Irish pub worth its Guinness, the New Sydney Hotel also hosts nightly music, the most popular being the traditional Irish jam that’s been running on Saturdays for 25 years. Snag a cozy seat by the log fire, and soak up the ambience.

Why we love it: A sprawling lakefront resort with activities for everyone

The Highlights:
- A wide range of activities, including golf, lake cruises, and water sports
- Spacious rooms, many with lake and mountain views
- An on-site spa with extensive offerings

The Review:
This sprawling resort specializes in weddings and conferences, but those aren’t the only reasons to book a stay here. The property’s waterfront location on Lake Coeur d’Alene puts a wealth of outdoor amusements right outside your door, from the world’s only floating golf green to water sports like jet-skiing, kayaking, and stand-up paddleboarding. Even the infinity pool—located, along with the beach area, just a seven-minute boat ride from the resort—overlooks the pristine lake.

Many hotel rooms and suites also offer water views, along with plush amenities like pillowtop mattresses, gas fireplaces, and ultra-high-definition TVs. For yet another perspective, head to the seventh-floor restaurant Beverly’s, which features floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the marina, or the lobby-level Dockside, where you can dine on locally inspired fare while gazing at the lake. Also on site are a variety of other dining options (a coffee and juice shop, a boardwalk bar, a floating restaurant, and a waterfront lounge) as well as a luxurious spa and salon.

I favor several hotel brands in certain parts of the world. It’s The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota for a Florida beach location perfect for family fun and here’s why: The airport is a short ride from The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota and serviced by several carriers. The hotel will pick you up by prior arrangement (fee) making it even easier for you. The hotel’s Jack Dusty restaurant offers a beautiful breakfast but dinner is even more special with a seafood-focused menu that is creative and done right. Nearby, the upscale-casual Shore on St. Armands Circle is great too. A free shuttle to this appealing area famous for shopping and dining is provided by the hotel. The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota has a Ritz Kids (club) to keep the littles engaged. Or hop on the free scheduled shuttle to the Beach Club to enjoy a day at the kid-friendly pool or under an umbrella at the beach. Enough sun? Visit the inspirational Marie Selby Botanical Gardens, or see the Ringling Museum’s depiction of a circus and encampment via thousands of handmade figures created by one man over 50 years, or tour the Ringling mansion Ca’d’Zan to see a gilded slice of life. Parents should relax. Rooms redone in soothing ocean tones, an inviting lobby, a sleek Club Lounge, and sparkling event spaces invite you to slow down. Swim in the pool or paddle a SUP or kayak on the bay. The Spa has created a package of several treatments to relax you, so take advantage of it. For family fun, walk the Downtown Farmers’ Market. Don’t miss fresh-squeezed orange-strawberry juice from Jordan’s Farm. For lunch, try the locals’ favorite, Nancy’s Bar-B-Q, to get down with some of the best barbecue ever. Sun, beach, and making fun family memories, it’s all here in Sarasota.

An ancient atoll, Molokini lies 2.5 miles off Maui’s south coast, where the water is calm, clear, and teeming with marine life. Here, snorkelers and scuba divers can expect up to 150 feet of visibility, allowing for perfect views of yellow tang, parrot fish, black triggerfish, bluefin trevally, and even moray eels. To explore it for yourself, book a tour with Maui Classic Charters, which sails to Molokini in a 55-foot catamaran with a glass-bottomed viewing room. Choose one of the early-morning trips for a better chance of calm seas and bigger sea creatures like octopus and eagle rays, and bring along snacks, sunscreen, and, for those who run cold, perhaps a rash guard or thin wet suit, especially in the winter months.

The peaceful, elegant Hotel Eden Roc enjoys an enviable location right between the mountains and the scenic Lake Maggiore in the charming Swiss village of Ascona. Interior designer Carlo Rampazzi is responsible for the retreat’s sumptuous visual appeal, which begins in the striking lobby, with its marble floors and palazzo ceiling, and runs through to the high-end fabrics, white granite, and mosaics featured in the colorful rooms and suites. All rooms have a balcony or terrace, free Wi-FI, and a refined but open feel that perfectly suits the lakeside location—especially the newly renovated rooms in buildings I and II. Rooms in the adjacent Eden Roc Marina have a maritime theme, and are connected to the main hotel by a walkway. The private beach is a boon for sunbathers, and there’s a spacious panoramic pier with private yachting marina, a quartet of very good restaurants, and a huge spa area.

The Vintage House Douro is located in Pinhão, in the middle of the Douro Region, classified as World Heritage and the first demarcated wine region of the world. Adapted from an old winery, the The Vintage House Douro is a five star, with a sophisticated but comfortable decoration, typical of the traditional farms of the Douro.


With 36 rooms, 5 suites and 2 luxury suites, all with balcony overlooking the river and the terraced vineyards, The Vintage House Douro has a unique location, between the river and the train station of Pinhão – mandatory stop of famous Douro railway line. In addition to car or train, guests can arrive by boat and dock at the pier right in front of the hotel .

Though the airport and city highlights are all a quick drive away, the Fairmont feels like a true getaway thanks to its setting on Palm Jumeirah island. There, surrounded by views of the Arabian Gulf and Dubai Marina, you’ll find 381 guest rooms and suites, each with warm, contemporary-Arabic décor, marble soaking tubs, Le Labo bath products, Nespresso machines, and furnished balconies. Many of the rooms are designed to be connected to form their own locked-off section, making the hotel ideal for family travel. Also great for groups is the wealth of amenities, starting with the 10 restaurants and lounges featuring everything from authentic Indian, Korean, and Taiwanese fare to Brazilian churrascaria and American burgers and shakes. A Kid’s Club, four pools, beachfront loungers, a health club, and a Willow Stream Spa help keep everyone entertained, as do off-property activities like water sports, speed boat rides, and golf at three nearby clubs.

Finding a fun bar that’s popular with locals is almost a travel imperative: While hotel bars have their charms, local bars offer travelers a way to explore a destination through its people. This beach bar at the heart of Sandy Ground fits the bill. Mellow by day, the vibe picks up at night, with dancing out on the sand, occasional live music and DJs, plus famous full-moon celebrations. On Sunday afternoons, grab a fish taco and a beer and join the crowd watching the football or basketball game on the huge outdoor screen.

Mexico City is often depicted—and not incorrectly—as a capital city teeming with buildings, people, and cars. It also, though, has a surprising number of green spaces and parks, the most expansive of which is Bosque de Chapultepec, right on the edge of Polanco. It’s easy to while away a good bit of time in Chapultepec; the park has a zoo, a lake where you can rent pedal boats, street performers making music and magic, and the Castillo de Chapultepec—Chapultepec Castle—which houses the National History Museum. If you’re hungry, you’ll find plenty of vendors peddling everything from roasted corn on the cob to cotton candy.

Along the southern coast, Treasure Beach is about as peaceful as Jamaican beaches get. A few well-known guesthouses and resorts are located in this fishing community, but you’ll probably see more locals than tourists around, especially when compared with the rest of the island. The black-sand beaches, teeming with shorebirds, are attractive, and happily there’s not much to do but catch the breeze, mingle with local families, and enjoy fresh seafood.