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Bear’s Hump is one of Waterton National Park’s best hikes. It’s extremely short, measuring only 2.8 km, but it involves plenty of climbing as the trail winds uphill from the Visitor Information Office towards the rocky bluffs that hang high above the townsite. The hike itself is little more than a forested staircase that will test the lungs of even the most seasoned hiker; however, the destination is absolutely stunning. From Bear’s Hump, the views extend across the Waterton Lakes and deep into the USA’s Glacier National Park. Sunset is an absultely wonderful time to check out this stunning view, but don’t forget to take a flashlight for the steep hike back down.

Did you know that the world’s largest spring fed swimming pool is located in the high desert in West Texas? I’d heard of Balmorhea on a previous visit to Marfa, so when the weather got relentless this time, I drove north, in search of cold water to dive into.

Arriving at Balmorhea after an hours drive through the arid high desert felt like a mirage. It’s almost like you don’t quite trust your eyes. The pool is huge and the water a deep color of turquoise. It’s paradise, except for those pesky little black fish that nobody had warned me about. As soon as you stop swimming those little buggers come to nibble at you like a swarm of underwater mosquitoes. It’s funny, and trust me, it keeps you moving!

I only went to Balmorhea for the afternoon to cool off, but they do have overnight options there. Even if you’re only there for a few hours, bring some food–as the options to buy anything good are thin.

Open daily from 8 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. or sunset, whichever comes first
Entrance fees: adult: $7 daily, child 12 years and under: free

>>>Warmest thanks to the awesome team at El Cosmico for another unforgettable Trans Pecos Festival of Music and Love–an annual gathering of friends, music, art, camping, sandlot baseball and a night sky full of stars in Marfa, Texas. Love you guys.

Sustainability is the name of the game at h2hotel in downtown Healdsburg. The building is certified LEED Gold by the U.S. Green Building Council and has a living roof of grass and succulents that filters rainwater to reduce the impact on Healdsburg’s storm-drain system and neighboring Foss Creek. Inside the 36 rooms, sensors turn off lights, fans, and air conditioners when guests leave, and the bamboo flooring is layered with fair-trade, chemical-free rugs. Even the way the hotel approaches in-room beverages is green; instead of plastic water bottles, guests are given recycled glass wine bottles to refill at water stations around the property (there’s at least one on each floor). The hotel isn’t only eco-friendly; it’s swanky, too. Out back, along Foss Creek, a lap pool is an inviting spot to spend a hot and sunny afternoon. In the lobby, the bar at Spoonbar! Restaurant still turns out some of the tastiest craft cocktails in town. All overnight stays include complimentary breakfast and access to the hotel’s collection of Public bikes. There’s also a free yoga class for guests every Sunday morning. Be sure to see the on-site Hand Fan Museum, a passion project for Pam Sher, the matriarch of the family in charge. Also make time for a meal at Oaxacan restaurant Mateo’s Cocina Latina across the street (chef Mateo Granados is married to the owner of the hotel).

The country-style NOMAD Heritage Library at Stewart Cellars’ downtown Yountville tasting room has the look and feel of a worldly traveler’s living room: It’s full of books. Rumor has it the titles are tomes that owner Michael Stewart loves and cherishes, and the books are available for guests to read during their time on-site. The Library hosts private and exclusive Heritage Tastings, allowing guests to sample an amazing selection of older-vintage cabernets from consulting winemaker Paul Hobbs. Elsewhere on the premises, the main Tasting Hall features vaulted ceilings, a horseshoe-shaped tasting bar, and floor-to-ceiling doors that open to a private but welcoming courtyard. Wine flights are available in this part of the facility, and they incorporate some of Stewart’s wines from Napa and Sonoma counties. In 2017, Napa’s beloved Southside Café opened a second location at Stewart, serving coffee and California cuisine with a Latin twist. Brunch at this branch of Southside is a big deal; make a reservation ahead of time to start your day with breakfast tostadas, chilaquiles, or a porchetta and potato onion cake.

Even if you don’t have a train to catch, you’ll want to make time to explore all of the dining options at Denver’s Union Station. This Beaux-Arts landmark, completed in 1914, underwent a complete renovation in 2014, and now it not only serves as a modern transit hub, but houses a hotel, shops, and nearly a dozen restaurants and bars as well. Eateries include fresh seafood, oysters, and a granita bar at Stoic & Genuine; seasonally inspired comfort food at the sit-down eatery within Mercantile Dining & Provision; and locally sourced casual fare at Next Door. Pick up breakfast at Snooze, get caffeinated at Pigtrain Coffee Co., and for lunch or a quick dinner, stop by the Acme Delicatessen (and don’t forget Milkbox Ice Creamery for frozen indulgence afterward). For evening visits—postprandial or otherwise—head up to the Cooper Lounge on the mezzanine level for cocktails looking out into the station’s Great Hall.

For an especially scenic drink, try the umbrella-shaded Beachside Bistro at the Summer House. Down a flight of stairs into the gentle dunes, you can’t get much further east unless you want to go swimming. A full bar is available and you can snack on the likes of lobster salad or crab cake. Come at sunset, and even though you won’t see the sun itself, the entire sky glows pink and dreamy as the waves roll in.

Before you even leave for Telluride, the staff at Madeline Hotel & Residences can help you arrange itineraries, transfers, and equipment rentals or book activities like snowmobile tours and alpine hikes. Once you arrive, however, you might be content to never leave the property. Guests can get acclimated with an altitude oxygen treatment at the spa, browse the 80 original paintings chosen by the in-house art curator, or find their Zen during a yoga class at the fitness center. There’s also an outdoor heated pool, a kids’ club with games and movies, and the Black Iron Kitchen and Bar, which serves local comfort food like Colorado bison chili and warm Camembert with honey and figs. Outdoor fire tables offer the perfect place for après-ski cocktails but the Madeline’s pièce de résistance is its Sky Terrace—a 9,500-square-foot outdoor lounge with fire pits and two hot tubs. Should you actually tear yourself away from the hotel, you can take the nearby gondola to Telluride’s nightlife and shopping, or use the slope-side valet to get on the mountain quicky and easily.

The Madeline is surrounded on three sides by the San Juan mountains, so many of the guest rooms offer stunning views. They also feature contemporary but comfortable furnishings, plus access to a “bath barista,” who will draw you a customized soak in your spacious tub. Suites have heated bathroom floors and a separate living area with a kitchenette and gas fireplace, while residences include full kitchens, laundry facilities, and balconies.

Galley Beach has one of the best locations on Nantucket. With views out over the ocean from the dining room and tables spilling onto the beach, there’s not a bad seat in the house. It’s a popular spot with a stylish crowd, and the martinis flow freely. Come early to snag a seat for sunset, one of the best shows in town, and as the evening gets underway enjoy the breeze on your face and scrunching your toes in the sand while tiki torches light up the night.

After studying the time-honored traditions of whole hog barbecue from old-timers in West Tennessee, Pat Martin brought the craft to the Nashville area. He opened his first joint in a repurposed auto-body shop in Nolensville, but now has achieved barbecue-empire status with multiple locations. The grandest branch, in downtown Nashville, includes a terrific backyard beer garden, with an open skeleton of steel beams overhead, the surrounding brick walls covered with bright murals and bric-a-brac from old license plates to portraits of Daisy Duke, and everywhere the perfume of pit smoke. It’s hard to make a poor choice from a menu that includes smoked wings in Alabama white sauce, pulled pork over hoecake with slaw (called the Redneck Taco), and simple slices of beef brisket.

John Besh, the acclaimed chef and New Orleans restaurateur, has opened his first Nashville outpost on the ground floor of the Thompson Hotel in the Gulch neighborhood. He brings with him a love of fresh seafood and the distinctive taste of New Orleans—including his mother’s gumbo recipe—through dishes like red snapper court bouillon. The menu includes options from land, too, such as duck confit dirty rice, a Tennessee pork chop with collards and grits, and Mississippi rabbit over hand-cut pappardelle with wild mushrooms. The restaurant, accented with deep blue and touches of Nashville-casual denim, has a relaxed bistro vibe and a menu for every meal of the day. Don’t miss pastry chef Lisa White’s biscuits at breakfast or her after-dinner desserts like Cruze buttermilk cheesecake.

Named for the overnight train that served Santa Barbara from 1910 to 1968, the Lark restaurant showcases the Central Coast’s seasonal bounty. Located in the Santa Barbara Fish Market Building, in the heart of the city’s Funk Zone, the innovative restaurant combines a farm-to-table ethos with a family-style approach. During most months, the outdoor courtyard seating is as convivial as the tables in the dining room. The menu of small plates is organized by their ingredients’ places of origin (farm, ranch, or ocean): crispy brussels sprouts include sweet medjool dates as well as spicy serrano chilies; pickled fennel and compressed Granny Smith apples accompany the grilled Kurobata pork belly; and passion-fruit vinaigrette and fried avocado enhance the flavor of Japanese hamachi collar. Larger platters are meant to be shared, and restaurant regulars often choose one or two (the Baharat spiced cauliflower and Israeli couscous is a favorite) along with several smaller plates. Pro tip: While it’s tempting to fill up on the herbed popcorn that’s delivered to your table the instant you’re seated, slow down, order a craft cocktail, and make sure you save room for the main event.

Cru is a spectacular location for a drink, with the harbor and Billionaires Row as its backdrop. The outdoor patio is great for people-watching, as is the silky-smooth stone-topped bar. The tart and refreshing Crucomber is the signature cocktail: a mix of bison grass vodka, lemon, cucumber, and toasted sesame. If you want to snack, the cocktail pairs well with any of the delightfully fresh crudos and oysters on the menu. After a few, take a walk along the pier and fantasize about life aboard a luxury yacht.

Servers, somms, and chef-owner Nancy Silverton all swirl around Osteria Mozza’s centerpiece Mozzarella Bar, where small dishes of freshly imported mozzarella, ricotta, and burrata are plated with pairings like bacon or braised leeks. With eyes closed, white-tablecloth diners attempt to fully savor each bite of cool, moist cheese before it melts in their mouths. These flavors are a tough act to follow, but the restaurant certainly steps up to the plate with signature meals like the Squid Ink Chittara Freddi with crab, sea urchin, and jalapeño. Just be sure to leave room for a rosemary olive oil cake for dessert: The eatery’s Dahlia Narvaez was awarded the James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef in 2016. Reservations at least one month out are recommended unless you have the flexibility to take a chance with a walk-in seat at the Mozzarella Bar itself—a one-of-a-kind experience.

With only a couple of exceptions, you can’t soak in Yellowstone’s thermal features (this is for numerous reasons, not the least of which is that most are so scalding hot they’d burn the flesh off you). North of Gardiner, Montana, though, in the no-stoplight community of Pray, Chico Hot Springs has welcomed soakers to its spring-fed hot pools since 1900. Spend the night in one of the quirky rooms in the historic main lodge, originally built as a boardinghouse for miners, or in a refurbished caboose from the Northern Pacific Railroad. If at all possible, plan to be at Chico on a Sunday morning, when it serves the best brunch in Montana.

When the Art family bought the struggling Chico Hot Springs Resort in 1972, some of the earliest improvements they made were to its dining room. The idea was to create one of the best restaurants in the state; if guests came for the food, maybe they’d spend the night. The family succeeded. Today the Chico Dining Room is so beloved it spawned a cookbook, A Montana Table: Recipes from Chico Hot Springs Resort. While ingredients are as fresh as can be—with produce from on-site greenhouses, meat from local ranchers, seafood flown in overnight from the coast—the menu includes some dishes that have been around for more than 40 years. The classic Chico meal is beef Wellington (service for two) and, for dessert, a Flaming Orange, which is exactly what it sounds like.

Bufalina owner Steven Dilley once lived in New York City, where he taught himself how to cook pizza in his subsequently overheated apartment. He was a good teacher and a good student. The University of Texas alumnus became one of the early movers in the Neapolitan pizza game in Austin and now operates two Bufalina locations. The igloo-shaped stoves that turn out charred and supple pizzas never would have fit in that old apartment, but they have become the centerpieces of his Austin restaurants. The menus celebrate local bounty with a couple of fresh salad options, and the daily pasta is always a must. Dilley has also put together one of the city’s most intriguing wine lists, an unexpected page-turner for restaurants the size of Bufalina.