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Writer Tom Downey tracks the sources of surprising culinary innovations in Australia’s second city.

Beyond the Olympics in London’s East End

In Greece’s Peloponnese countryside, food is sourced from hillside to hearth.

Wandering Sommelier: Jean K. Reilly in Greece

Greeks, especially Athenians, are high-spirited partiers, and don’t stop till they get enough. For those seeking glamour it’s fun to sip cocktails on a rooftop bar, but it’s just as fun to dance in a grungy music venue. Wander near the Technopolis in Gazi or the clubs near the sea during summer, when the party simply spills out onto the streets. Start late, and pace yourself until sunrise, which is when most locals only begin to think about going home.

In the past decade Athenian restaurant culture has upped its game. Along with the wonderful traditional family-owned tavernas serving local fare, Michelin-starred venues have been reinterpreting Greek favorites with creativity and aplomb to increasingly discerning crowds. Even Greek coffee (with grounds on the bottom of the cup) has branched out. Remember, dinner hour here is often 9-ish; and most of the year the action takes place outdoors under balmy skies.

Athens is infused with counterculture, ranging from the anarchic and graffitied to global-nomad hipster. Bohemia tends to concentrate in a few neighborhoods, notably Exarchia, Kerameikos, Metaxourgeio and the road leading toward Pireaus, but street art and edgy eateries can dot even posher neighborhoods. Of note are Athens’ many wonderful collective DIY art venues combining nightlife, music, art, performance and sometimes even daytime work.

If Rome is the eternal city, Athens may be immortal, with its impossibly ancient monuments and vibrant cultural scene. Visitors can choose to stay at one of the world’s most historic and luxurious hotels, fit for gods and goddesses. Neoclassical mansions have been restored with sophisticated modern decor and contemporary Greek cuisine. Choose from a hotel location on Syntagma Square or in the lanes of Plaka for maximum convenience, or venture a bit further west to enjoy bohemian nightlife in Psiri. Acropolis views are always worth the upgrade, especially from a rooftop pool on a balmy Athens summer day.

Athens has plenty of altitude to go along with its attitude—on-high vantage points include not only the Acropolis but also rooftop bars and luxurious hotel terraces. From many of these places, you’ll feel on top of the world.

If you only have one week in Greece, stick to Athens and the islands of the Cyclades, and you’ll get a well-rounded glimpse into everything that Greece has to offer. Spend two days in Athens, two in Santorini, two in Naxos, and one night enjoying dinner and drinks at the water’s edge in Mykonos. You can do a lot with one week in Greece.

Board the ferry from Athens and you’ll be rewarded with whitewashed fishing villages, ancient olive groves, pebble and sandy beaches, and world-heritage archaeological sites—not to mention iconic Aegean Sea views. Whether you’re making a pit stop on your Greek island-hopping adventure or holing up for the duration of your stay, these postcard-worthy hotels and resorts make the most of their surroundings.

See our full list of Where to Go in 2015. According to legend, the ancient gods battled it out to become Athens’ patron deity. The showdown came after the Phoenicians founded a city at a giant rock near the Aegean some two and a half million years ago. The gods of Olympus issued a challenge: the deity who could provide the most valuable legacy for mortals would become the city’s namesake. Athena, goddess of wisdom, produced an olive tree, symbol of peace and prosperity. Poseidon, god of the sea, pounded his trident into the ground and out came a saltwater spring (or a horse, depending on the legend you read). The gods decided Athena’s gift would serve the city better with food, oil, and wood. To this day, her legacy is revered throughout Greece. Named after Erechtheus, a mythical king of Athens, the Erechtheion is Ionic architecture at its finest, easily recognizable by the Caryatids, six larger-than-life maidens modeled on women from ancient Karyai who seem to be casually supporting its southern portico. Those holding up the porch now are plaster casts; the originals are preserved in the Acropolis Museum in Athens.

Part of the Dorchester Collection, this Palace-designated hotel is deeply connected to its setting on the avenue Montaigne, the historic home of haute couture in the Triangle d’Or (Golden Triangle). Just across the street, Christian Dior opened his first shop in 1946 then showed his inaugural collection at the hotel. To this day, the subterranean Dior Spa (currently under renovation before a September relaunch) celebrates the link to the designer. The 154 guest rooms and 54 suites are likewise imbued with a chic couture vibe, whether you choose the classical style or newly renovated art deco rooms, punctuated with pops of red to echo the facade’s geranium-filled window boxes.

Rooftop cocktail bars are a new craze in Athens, but this place was 20 years ahead of the curve. A prime Athens spot on a hot summer (or spring, or fall) night, Bios is a hybrid of watering hole and cultural center—the rooftop bar is legendary for perfect Acropolis views, but there’s a lot more going on inside: two music halls, a theater, rehearsal rooms, exhibition areas, and additional hangout zones. Events are well-visited by the Athenian cool crowd, but the atmosphere is relaxed, not contrived. Come for culture, company, and sweeping views over the city’s rooftops, under the stars of the warm Greek sky.

With its walls of colorful glass bottles, this charming little bar can be elusive—nestled deep in downtown Athens, in the warren of streets that make up the Plaka. Day or night, Brettos (pronounced Vrettos in Greek) is frequented by locals and tourists alike—the oldest distillery in Athens. While you can opt for beer, wine, homemade moonshine, or perhaps a cocktail, you might kick yourself later for passing up the chance to have an ouzo, Greece’s signature anise-flavored liquor, in such a storied watering hole. Who knows where that first sip might lead?