Search results for

At La Cuchara de San Telmo, on the corner of the plaza Valle Lersundi in San Sebastian, the specialties were hot pintxos, quickly prepared to order--from the menu or the specials board, or by pointing to what your neighbor was eating. This was one of best scallops I have ever tasted. But then, so was the second one we had when we returned after another hour or so of pintxo bar hopping in the Parte Vieja (Old Town).

Merida is an instantly likable city and easily reached from Madrid on a day trip. Life is slower in Extremadura; upon our stepping out of the car, palm trees were gently swaying in the breeze, and the pace of life on the streets felt just right—perhaps because the people live in a rich city with deep roots. Holding the oldest Roman ruins in Spain, Merida has the privilege of being a UNESCO World Heritage site, with an Aqueduct, Roman Bridge, Amphitheater, and a host of other locations. For 12 euros, you can buy a ticket that allows you to visit all the monument sites over a span of 3 days. Each year in summer, the Roman Theater is brought back to life with concerts, plays, and other galas; these events typically sell out, but are still relatively unknown to tourists. Discover Merida for yourself! Photo by Angel Felicisimo/Flickr.

Take a quick break from the afternoon sun on Majorca’s gorgeous beaches and pop into the massive harbor-side Cathedral. Begun in 1229, this stunning structure took hundreds of years to complete, and underwent a more recent facelift under the artistic eyes of local Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi.

Like a moth to the flame, I was drawn to Kling while walking towards Sol. Hipster chic, preppy, and sexy intermingle seamlessly in the store, which is centered around a non-functioning antique popcorn machine. Everything about this place is sleek and suggestive. With a full selection of women’s clothing and shoes from the artsy to the office, as well as mens clothing - one would be hard pressed not to walk out with at least one item.

Most visitors never cross the river from the Old Part, and the vast majority overlook what has to be one of the most beautiful hikes from here to California. At the edge of Gros, a trail heads up some stairs (at the end of Calle San Francisco) and continues for hours, all the way to the neighboring village of Pasaia. It’s a family-friendly trail in terms of difficulty, and the views are breathtaking. A must-hike.

Txakoli. It’s not as hard to say as it looks, and it’s really easy to drink. This slightly fizzy white wine is unique to the Basque Country and is made (officially, at least) from the local Hondarribi varietal. Many of the bodegas in the D.O. Getariako are open for public visits, and some of them will even prepare you a mini feast to accompany the wine while you feast your eyes on the gorgeous scenery.

Perhaps it’s because of airline restrictions, but I’m willing to bet that you never thought of a knife as a great take-home from vacation. Stop in Cuchillería Colmenero and that will change. They have knives with beautiful hand-carved wooden handles, some with a Basque flavor, others that were/are used by Basque fishermen, and a whole lot more. They also sharpen knives on demand.

Bar Diz is nothing more and nothing less than a great neighborhood pintxo bar. Open at just the right times, with friendly service and a range of hot pintxos as well as larger portions and sandwiches, it hits the spot. They also have one of Gros’s best pintxo potes, which take place on Thursday nights from 7-10. A drink and a pintxo is two euros. It’s a madhouse.

Astelena 1997, not to be confused with the pintxo bar Astelena, fills an important niche in San Sebastián dining. While seasonal vegetables are at best supporting actors and at worse nonexistent in many local restaurants, at Astelena they take a more central role. You can get the best the Basque soil has to offer—artichokes, peppers, cardoons—prepared from scratch and with a hand that knows how to season. They have a mean steak, too.

Santa María del Coro is San Sebastián‘s token beautiful European church. It has the quiet, sunlit beauty that one comes to expect in European churches. It also is the site of several of the city’s unique celebrations, organ concerts, and the iconic San Sebastián, pierced with the famed arrows.

The Constitution Square (Plaza de la Constitución) is the very heart of the Old Part of San Sebastián. The biggest celebrations take place here: the Tamborrada, Santo Tomás, you name the party, and it probably starts here. Built in 1817, the square has served several purposes in its time. If you notice the numbers above each window, you may wonder if it was a jail, a brothel, a hotel....in fact, the Plaza was once a bullring, and the numbers denoted ticketholders’ boxes. Nowadays it is home to bars, restaurants, and shops...a great place for a drink in the evening.

Loreak Mendian is the epitome of youthful Basque couture for the people. Carefully designed, shying away from trends and focusing on classic cuts and prints with a bit of ‘edge’, their clothing walks a lovely line between wearable art and utilitarian. The boutique also has a winsome collection of carefully curated shoes and accessories. Worth a visit to pick up a catalog and check out the shop window display alone.

La Bretxa shopping center houses the usual trappings of a modern-day shopping mall, but below ground one can find the city’s largest and best market for the fruits of the sea. Cold, wet and crowded, this is the spot where you will find both renowned chefs and housewives of the city vying for the best anchovies, calamari, and cod of the day’s catch.

Easy to find and hard to leave, Ramses is modern but ultra comfortable. They managed to create a completely differente atmosphere in each room—from romantic dining to a bubbly champagne bar—but the outdoor lounge was my favorite. When traveling I typically won’t visit a place twice but, while sipping sangria outside surrounded by locals, I knew I’d come back to Ramses.

When someone tells me they’re traveling to Spain and looking for recommendations, San Sebastian (Donostia, in Basque) is my first thought for city destinations in the northern part of the country. It’s charming, beautiful, and steeped in history. Mount Urgull, the hill that stands on the right side of the bay, epitomizes all those characteristics in one easy to explore package. Mount Urgull is an easy walk from anywhere along the Promenade, and you can either walk up from Parte Vieja or walk around by the aquarium and the point to see views of the Bay of Biscay. I’ll recommend that you start with the second way and, coming back down, drop right into Parte Vieja. That way you get the best of both.