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You can’t beat the atmosphere and scenery at this Swiss-styled lodge, built 1913–14, on the scenic shore of the largest lake in Glacier National Park. The historic main-lodge rooms with lake views, as well as outlying cabins sitting on the pebbled beach, are often booked a year in advance. This leaves many travelers, who accept that nature is the main amenity, to make do with rooms in the characterless four-story modern motel wing. The soaring lobby lounge with a huge, pictograph-carved stone fireplace, vintage hand-painted lanterns, and deer, elk, and mountain goat trophies, as well as the sensational views from the pier and beach, make up for minuscule bathrooms, spartan room furnishings, slow Wi-Fi, and iffy cell phone signals. Self-drivers use the lodge as a base for the famed 50-mile Going-to-the-Sun Road across the Continental Divide. Hikers explore paths, including the wheelchair-accessible Trail of the Cedars, surrounding the 10-mile lake; the U-shaped valley branches into smaller glacier-carved “hanging” valleys dotted with waterfalls. In summer, guests also enjoy horseback riding and tours on the DeSmet, a vintage cruiser.

Peggy Dulany, a New York philanthropist and daughter of David Rockefeller, bought J Bar L to protect the 620-square-mile Centennial Valley, a former Native American hunting ground settled by a few cattle-ranching families in the late 19th century—and which still has no towns, let alone paved roads, gas stations, shops, or subdivisions. To conserve the rangeland way of life, she hired locals to run a holistic grass-fed cattle business on the principles of rotational grazing and natural stockmanship. To share the landscape with nature-loving travelers and to keep the valley looking as it was, Dulany restored several abandoned 19th- and early 20th-century homesteads. These self-contained vacation rental homes range from a Sears Roebuck family house, now solar-powered, to isolated cabins on a bend of the Red Rock River. All come with fully-equipped kitchens and are tastefully filled with Western-themed furnishings and antiques; some have outdoor hot tubs.

J Bar L no longer offers working weeks for would-be cowboys but will match guests with geologists as well as with hiking, bird-watching, and fly-fishing guides. Horse lovers can hire ranch mounts for guided daily rides on rangeland that is home to pronghorn, elk, and Black Angus cattle, or up the slopes of the 10,000-foot Gravelly Mountains where wolves, grizzly bears, and bald eagles roam.

Seeing wild wolves in Yellowstone National Park is nearly impossible without a guide; amateur wolf watchers in any case need high-powered binoculars and tolerance for cold, as the best observation season is winter, when wolf fur stands out against the snow. But at Howlers Inn Bed & Breakfast & Wolf Sanctuary, just outside Bozeman, guests year-round can observe a captive-bred pack from their bedroom window, and even pet a wolf through the chain-link fence of the inn’s four-acre sanctuary. Owners Chris and Mary Martha Bahn originally opened the federally licensed shelter in 1993 for a single rescued wolf that was unable to return to the wild. Built to fund the shelter as it accommodated more animals to live as a pack, the cozy log B&B sits on 42 acres in Bridger Canyon amid boulder-strewn meadows backed by pine-covered hills. Two wolf enclosures, with a seasonal pond and creek, are currently home to five spayed or neutered timber and Alaskan tundra wolves, born in captivity, whose owners could no longer keep them. The Bahns do not breed or exhibit the animals for profit, but they’re happy to discuss wolf conservation as well as the controversial issues of game farm breeding and hunting. Guests are welcome to photograph the human-habituated animals during their stay.

Still run by the descendants of its founder, Malcolm Mackay, this 114-year-old family-owned working cattle ranch in Roscoe, Montana, has been hosting guests—Roy Rogers and Robert Redford among them—since the 1980s. Lazy E-L Ranch is often booked a year in advance due to a capacity of just 14 guests who stay in three period cabins furnished with Western art, family pictures, and Navajo rugs. Instead of a formulaic schedule of staged chuckwagons, cowboy sing-alongs, roping practice, and nose-to-tail trail rides, guests have the option of a more authentic experience, joining ranch staff as they manage stock on 12,000 acres roamed by moose, deer, and bald eagles. The main draw here is integrating into ranch life, feeding chickens and horses, cleaning barns, and helping prepare family meals (though chores are optional). There are no guest cattle drives, but experienced riders can occasionally join or observe Lazy E-L professional cowboys moving 2,000 head of cattle. For guests preferring play to work, there’s horseback riding and hiking across pristine alpine pasture and barren plateaus; non-horse people can mountain bike down the terrifying Beartooth Highway, play soccer, baseball, and croquet, fish a private six-mile section of the West Rose Bud River, or raft the Class IV Stillwater River.

What was once a pop-up bar, The Broken Shaker is now a permanent fixture at the Freehand Miami. The James Beard Award-nominated bar is located in the high-end hostel on South Beach serving up a selection of handcrafted cocktails. The bar itself is a tiny room by the pool with a 1950s Havana look. You can grab your cocktail—made with elixirs, syrups and infusions using herbs and spices from the onsite garden—and drink it in the bar, or head outside to the pool and nestle into one of the lounge chairs. Away from the hustle and bustle of South Beach, The Broken Shaker offers a more intimate setting than the lavish pools at high-end hotels in the area.

At the edge of the Baja Peninsula, One&Only Palmilla was originally built in 1956 as a 15-room hideaway for Don Abelardo Rodriguez, son of the then-president of Mexico. Today, it’s one of the region’s most luxurious resorts, composed of 174 oceanfront rooms and suites and two villas decorated in neutral hues and splashes of red; many have infinity pools and patios that face the Sea of Cortez.


One&Only Palmilla has one of the area’s few swimmable beaches, plus three private rocky coves complete with floating beds, lounge chairs, and dedicated butlers. Activities include snorkeling, surfing, parasailing, and golfing the award-winning 27-hole course designed by Jack Nicklaus. The massive spa’s wellness garden features a juice bar and 13 treatment villas; several have private plunge pools, rain showers, and swinging daybeds.



One&Only Palmilla is a member of EarthCheck, a scientific benchmarking certification program, for its sustainability efforts, which include a state-of-the-art water purification system that produces and bottles filtered water on site. The resort works with the Red Committee for the Protection of the Sea Turtle by helping with daily patrols of nearby nests, an activity guests can join.

Esperanza, an Auberge Resort, sits on the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula, offering guests exceptional views of the Sea of Cortéz. Each of the hotel’s 57 rooms faces the sea and Esperanza’s private beach but also offers access to four separate swimming pools. Hotel staff keep guests as busy as they want to be with a full schedule of activities, some of which are the usual Baja resort suspects like yoga lessons and cooking classes. A number of options are quite unique, however—book a master tequilero to teach you about the fine art of tequila appreciation, or take classes in Spanish, salsa, painting, and more. Guest rooms are gorgeous, with an earth-tone color scheme and fine, locally made handicrafts as decorative accents. Bathrooms in the casitas look out onto water, while villas have full kitchens and dining rooms.

Vesper Bar at The Cosmopolitan is our favorite spot for a serious Old Fashioned—or Elderfashioned, the house’s riff, which gets a dose of St. Germain.

Rather than diving right into the hard stuff, sip one of the 35 craft beers on tap at the new SLS hotel’s Umami Burger beer garden. Pair it with an Umami pork belly sausage, served only at these bar stools.

Surrounded by swaying palms, tropical flowers, pink sand, and sapphire waters, the 100-acre Fairmont Southampton is Bermuda’s ultimate luxury destination. The 593 rooms and suites are among the largest on the island, and feature marble baths stocked with Le Labo products and private balconies that look out onto the Atlantic Ocean, Great Sound Harbour, or the lush landscaping of the on-site Turtle Hill Golf Club. A pool, beach club, dive center, kid’s camp, and tennis courts—plus that 18-hole championship course—offer plenty to keep guests busy. If you prefer to kick back, opt for a lavender-oil massage at Willow Stream Spa, a sprawling space complete with a well-stocked health club, sauna, and steam rooms, or grab a sundowner at one of the resort’s 10 restaurants, bars, and lounges.

It is not quite accurate to say that this 13-room beachfront property on sparsely populated South Andros Island is off the beaten path. Sure, there are no roads to bring you here, and the only neighbors are the denizens of the 125-acre nature preserve that surrounds it, but a seaplane flight from Nassau will have you wading ashore in just 15 minutes. Once settled into their thatch-roofed private villas, guests gravitate toward the Great Room for fruity drinks, fresh-caught meals, and tall tales. While there is every kind of watery diversion, from bonefishing to scuba diving—and nature tours, too—it’s the kind of place where kicking your feet up is the most strenuous thing you’ll do all day, and where privacy is so valued that beach butlers won’t intrude unless, in one of the older nautical traditions, you raise a flag to indicate that you require food and drink.

The centerpiece of a vast resort, golf club, and residential community complex, Rosewood Bermuda sits on 240 acres of waterfront land overlooking Castle Harbour, Harrington Sound, and the Atlantic Ocean. The recently refurbished resort is anchored by the Manor House, where 88 guest rooms blend classic cottage-style architecture and modern interiors that continue to set the standard for today’s luxury seekers: think canopy and four-poster beds, plantation shutters, and colonial-era antiques, all set against a cool white backdrop. Spring for a deluxe poolside room, which also has access to a private poolside daybed. Just don’t expect too much down time. Three on-site restaurants and two bars are beyond selfie-worthy, treatments at the spa incorporate local ingredients like cedar and juniper, and hotel guests receive membership to the 18-hole Roger Rulewich–designed golf course, tennis courts, and a beach club that sits on an exclusive stretch of pink sand for the duration of their stay.

Every evening on the North Shore of Kauai, diners pack Bar Acuda for Mediterranean-inspired tapas that highlight local products. “The key is taking the finest ingredients and not doing much with them,” says chef Jim Moffat. He frequently changes his seasonal menu and sources such produce as citrus, avocados, fennel, and herbs from his home garden and the Hanalei Elementary School Garden, a program for local students that he helps run. Moffat often shops at farmers’ markets, but locals know they can also sell their fruits and vegetables at Bar Acuda’s back door. One firefighter even drives his 30-foot ladder truck to drop off cases of tangelos. “If you have a vacation rental and there’s something ripe, bring it to me,” says Moffat, who promises a gift certificate in exchange. His food philosophy creates a dining experience that’s greater than the sum of its dishes. “It’s about the lifestyle more than anything.” This appeared in the May 2015 issue.

Built in 1906 as a private residence and converted in the 1950s, Rosedon Hotel is a low-key alternative to Bermuda’s pricey chain hotels. Despite being located in the bustling heart of Hamilton, the property’s lush tropical gardens have the feel of a country estate where geraniums always seem to be in bloom and balmy breezes waft through elegant, colonial-style rooms. The 40 individually appointed accommodations have enough chintz to please a dowager aunt, plus iPod docking stations and private balconies to satisfy everyone else in the family. Laid-back pleasures await in the public spaces: sample weekly changing finger sandwiches during afternoon tea or dine on fresh-caught specialties at Huckleberry, the on-site restaurant, or simply lie in the sun on one of the white chaises that surround the small pool. Though the resort doesn’t have a beach of its own, a free shuttle is on hand to take you to pink-sand shores nearby.

From its striking colonial-inspired exterior and elegant marble lobby to the uninterrupted views of the Hanoi Opera House, the Hotel de l’Opera evokes the spirit of an old world performance hall. The Old Quarter hotel’s cynosure is the nine-story atrium where velvet jewel-toned sofas, tasseled curtains, and an emerald tufted-silk wall behind the marble concierge counter have the dramatic effect of a theater foyer. The theme continues in the guest rooms: Moody walls, Hollywood-style vanity mirrors, and metallic accents nod to performers’ dressing rooms. Take in the sights from the third-floor pool terrace, which looks straight down Trang Tien Street to the iconic landmark, then head to the Fée Verte bar for cocktails before dinner at Café Lautrec, honoring the 19th-century painter and Hanoi’s ubiquitous French influences.