In Egypt, Getting Beyond “Otherness”
By Greg Sullivan
As I write this, I'm in Cairo. Two nights ago, a group of protesters tore down a newly installed wall outside the Israeli Embassy. Some of the gang gained access to the embassy on the 13th floor, where they ransacked the offices. This was a serious breach of international law. More than 100 protesters were injured, and three people died. Tragic.
I've been fielding emails from friends and family who are concerned about my safety. I appreciate their concern, but the incident gives me a chance to think about something more: where, when, and why we travel.
First let me declare my bias. My business partner Joe and I launched AFAR travel magazine in 2009, so obviously I favor travel. What's more, our company is organizing a travel experience in Cairo in late October.
When Mubarak resigned and the country celebrated in February, I immediately bought a ticket to Cairo and was here a few days later. The enthusiasm, hope, and pride of the people were contagious. I knew tourism would suffer for the near future, and I wanted to do something to support the people as they undertook building the new Egypt.
I've been back to Cairo three more times since February. What I've experienced has been fantastic. I have been fortunate to meet many locals from a variety of fields. They are so excited about their future. As my new friend Ghada said to me, "Before the revolution, my son wanted to move away from Egypt when he was done with school. Now, he is proud and excited about Egypt and wants to stay."
Building a new Egypt isn't easy. Another friend, Gamila, told me, "In the old regime, we had to hide our differences. Now we are free to express them, and that is both exciting and a new challenge. It may take some time to accept our differences, but in the end, Egypt will be a much better place to live."
News coverage focuses a spotlight on incidents such as the Israeli Embassy attack, as it rightly should. What doesn't make the news is everyday life, what the locals are doing or what you are likely to experience if you visit a place.
According to the Egyptian government, 2.2 million people visited Egypt in the second quarter, and none were attacked. That doesn't make headlines.
I feel safe in Cairo. By talking with the locals and asking them where to go and what to avoid, by reading a variety of news accounts, including the local ones, and by watching other people and using common sense, I move through the city comfortably. There are many other places I travel where I feel the need to be more vigilant than I do here.
Bad things happen everywhere, and there are no guarantees. According to the New York Times, 67 people were shot in various incidents in New York over Labor Day weekend; 13 died. When I traveled to New York, nobody emailed me to make sure I was OK. But when things happen in a foreign land—and let's be honest, particularly in the Middle East—people are more likely to assume an isolated incident is indicative of much more.
To me, that is partly why travel is so important: to get a window into places we don't know, to understand the people and culture better, to appreciate our differences and to get beyond the feeling of "otherness" that separates us.
The economy in Egypt has been hurt seriously, particularly tourism, as the world waits for "stability" to return to the Middle East.
Another friend, Mohamed, told me he has done little business since the revolution. "This is OK," he said. "This moment is likely not to come again. We must make the most of it, for all our good."
There may be headlines that make some people nervous. But just as it is a rare opportunity for the people of Egypt, it is rare for travelers. I consider it a privilege to visit at this historic moment and to support the Egyptian people as they plot a new course.
Greg Sullivan is co-founder and editorial director of AFAR Media, publishers of AFAR magazine and host of AFAR Experiences, a three-day event in Cairo. Contact him at sullivan@afar.com. This story appeared in Travel Weekly.



I have had thoughts along these lines myself, many times. Engaging within another culture is the only 'source' I truly trust - seeing something with my own eyes. I LOVE this paragraph "To me, that is partly why travel is so important: to get a window into places we don't know, to understand the people and culture better, to appreciate our differences and to get beyond the feeling of "otherness" that separates us" LOVE this! I recently discovered your magazine on a little rack in the airport at Istanbul and am SO happy I did. Thank you for sharing!
I just returned from a week in Cairo. I was visiting my 23 year old daughter who accepted an internship right out of college. Obviously, seeing is believing so her commentary of " don't believe everything you see on tv" wrang true. She went to college in New York City and I can honestly say I felt more comfortable in the city centre at night in Cairo. By and large the Egyptians were warm, friendly, welcoming people. When they say "you are welcome," they mean it. The sad commentary from my daughter came when she said that unfortunately if her new friends came to America to visit, they would not be welcomed with the same kind spirit. I applaud the Egyptian people's zest for life and am glad that my few days of playing tourist could contribute a few dollars to the New Egypt that is to come.
You make me want to book a trip to Egypt immediately!
What an amazing time for the middle east - a true people's revolution in Egypt and change moving in many other Arab countries as well. Not an easy revolution, but it is inspiring to hear how the people embrace the challenge of re-inventing their governments and their lives and it sounds like even their culture.
So well put. So often people in the West think of the Middle East as such a dangerous place, but they forget how often crime and other fatalities occur in the United States. I LOVE your writing and your company. I really admire and appreciate what you and your colleague are trying to do. I really wish I hadn't just started my new job so that I could visit Cairo right away. It's definitely high on my list for my next big trip.
USA is a land of contradictions. Last night I was watching debate among Republican candidates and was so dismayed to witness such disconnect of Americans and our so called leaders from the rest of the world. But, reading your post and comments of readers reminded me once again why I love this country and my fellow citizens.
I lived in Cairo in 2006 as the first in-country director for IRI, an American NGO dedicated to helping build participatory governments. I lived on the island of Zamalek which sits in a fork in the Nile stretching toward Giza. But even more inspirational than the pyramids were the scores of activists and just plain people whom I met committed to real change. Although Murbarak's government suspended our activities and threatened me with arrest - prompting me to return to the US - I kept in touch with many of my new friends during their revolution earlier this year. Now that I'm living in Italy, just across the Mediterranean from the Maghreb, and after reading Greg's story, I'm encouraged and eager to return.
Seeing such positive comments is so inspiring. And to anyone who's eager to return to Egypt, consider the upcoming AFAR Experience in Cairo. Here's the link: http://www.afarexperiences.com/
Great read! Thank you for an inspirational article!
I saw your comments on the unlawful and sad Israeli embassy attack and agree with your comments 100% - the will to travel to Egypt - should win for Egypt's sake... they need visitors they need support to grow and thrive as they want to.
I'm so glad you are encouraging people to Go to Egypt.
Cairo is the most safe huge city I have ever been in. When I have worked and lived there over the last 9 years - as a woman alone I often walked and traveled around with no fear of being harmed... I would not walk alone in many parts of my own much smaller city of Baltimore.... but I have done so all over Egypt and except for the occasional unsolicited called "I love yous & requests to marry me" and I have had no problems.
We "arm chair revolutionaries" watching from here in the US or elsewhere - with little or no knowledge of the real life in Egypt under Mubarak or now after the revolution... need to remind ourselves that finding freedom is a difficult but worthwhile road for the Egyptians - their lives of their children depend on it.... it will take time to learn to be independent and take over what government has always done for the people of
Egypt under corrupt Turkish and English colonial and then NDP rule for so long - taking responsibility for their own futures needs to be learned by the new young generations we saw in the streets - it is hard because it has been a "top down" society for so long where you dare not question or raise issues for fear of retribution... there are always leaning and growing pains and unfortunately counter revolutionaries trying to undermine the peole's will during a revolution process... History is wrought with it..
So Go to see the New Egypt! They need us all to visit to grow and thrive!
It's funny...I am in Israel now and will be travelling tomorrow to Eilat, which is right at the border of Egypt. I would love to go into Egypt, but have been told not to venture there. Everyone has his own opinion. Just like after hearing all the horrors on CNN with regards to Israel, it makes people think twice about travelling here. However when you arrive you quickly take note that people are living normally, not in fear..Always aware, but not in fear..I will check out the situation when I arrive in Eilat because I have always wanted to visit Giza..
I am so glad to read these comments. My husband and I were in Egypt in January and had a wonderful, wonderful trip. We left to return home the day before their revolution. At no time did we ever feel uncomfortable or unsafe. If we hadn't left when we did, I feel sure that the travel company we were with would have taken care of us until we could catch a plane home. I am so hopeful that the Egypt of the future will be a better one for the people. We saw so much poverty and yet, in spite of it, so many smiling faces. We could not have been treated better, and in fact, have been treated worse in other countries. If only all Americans could travel more and see for themselves that all around the world people are people and for the most part want what we want.....a safe home, food to eat and to have a useful purpose in life. The media does none of us a service with their emphasis on only the bad.
Productive Peace takes letting go of fear face-to-face, then moving shoulder-to-shoulder. Thank you for keeping the front door open to see past the oppression of nationalism.