Baltimore

Baltimore has been the site of incredible change, both politically and industrially, from its beginnings as one of the most important ports of early America. Visitors experience Baltimore through its unique neighborhoods, each of which carries stories of the city’s—and the nation’s—history. Baltimore innovates through art, culture, and especially food, while retaining the old traditions of a city on the water.

Baltimore, Maryland, USA cityscape at Mt. Vernon and the Washington Monument.

Photo by Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Baltimore

The harbor is a wonderful place to spend a vacation, but to really see what makes Baltimore tick, dig into a few of the neighborhoods around the city. Federal Hill overlooks downtown and the Inner Harbor, and has a young vibe, restored row houses, and lively shops and restaurants. Hampden is the eccentric center depicted in John Waters’ films, anchored by local small businesses. Mount Vernon was historically home to Baltimore’s elite, and is now the city’s major cultural district. Up-and-coming Station North is the heart the city’s grassroots art scene. Further neighborhood gems are found near the water in Fells Point and Canton, and deeper into the city in Belvedere Square and Hamilton.

Food and drink to try in Baltimore

In a city on the water, there’s a high likelihood at any restaurant that fresh seafood is on the menu. Mussels and oysters are common appetizers, though crab is Maryland’s specialty, served steamed with a healthy dusting of the locally produced Old Bay seasoning. A proper crab feast typically involves beer (perhaps one of Baltimore’s own National Bohemian brews, colloquially known as Natty Boh) and a bucket of crabs laid out over brown butcher paper. New visitors to Maryland might find crab-picking laborious or even painful, but the messy and finger-licking experience is an essential—and worthwhile—one.

Culture in Baltimore

Baltimore beams with intense city pride, and it’s this pride that is at the heart of the nickname Charm City. Visitors may arrive with preconceived notions from TV shows like The Wire, but locals are quick to point out what is special about their town. Baltimore has pride for its local sports teams (The Orioles and the Ravens), its (formerly) local beer (Natty Boh, now brewed by Pabst after more than a century in Baltimore), their famous poet (Edgar Allen Poe), and their favorite eccentric movie director (John Waters). Ask a Baltimorean what they love most about their city, and it’ll likely lead to a lively discussion of Baltimore’s many charms.

Shopping

Hampden’s 36th Street is the place to shop small and local. Find everything from home goods and gifts at Trohv, to vintage and modern clothing for men and women at Hunting Ground, to pure kitsch at HONTown (Baltimore’s ubiquitous term of endearment, short for honey). At each month’s First Friday event, you’ll find free wine, beer, and snacks at many of the neighborhood shops. Fells Point is popular among both tourists and locals for inexpensive antique shops, local art galleries, clothing, and music. Check out Harbor East for a great selection of popular national brands without the mall, plus hometown favorites like Under Armour athletic gear and boutique wine shop BIN 604.

Practical Information

Baltimore is best to visit during the spring and the fall. Summer brings great events and activities, but it is hot and humid from June to early September, so be prepared to hydrate and take air conditioning breaks. Visitors can take advantage of the free Charm City Circulator bus with four routes throughout the Inner Harbor, Mount Vernon, Fells Point, Federal Hill, and Penn Station. To explore other sections of the city like Hampden or Woodberry, consider renting a car or taking a taxi. The regional commuter train MARC puts DC within an hour’s ride of Baltimore’s Penn Station.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Hampden is known for beehive hairdos, cat-eye glasses, kitchsy decor like the pink flamingo, and ladies who call everyone “hon.” Now, though, Hampden is Baltimore’s hipster neighborhood with an array of thrift stores, antique shops, boutiques, and restaurants. It’s worth taking at least a half day to browse the many shops, grab a great meal, and maybe buy some Baltimore souvenirs. On First Fridays (of the month) many shops serve wine, stay open a little later, and offer special deals. John Waters’ Baltimore, from the musical Hairspray, manifests itself in Hampden, specifically on 36th Street, which is simply called “The Avenue.” The proprietress of Cafe Hon (featured on Kitchen Nightmares) has worked to maintain the John Waters-inspired vibe as a tourist attraction, which can really be seen during Honfest where beehives and kitsch take over in early June. Some favorites in the area include: Trohv for Baltimore souvenirs; Ma Petit Shoe for shoes and chocolate (can’t go wrong there); Wine Source for an impressive array of beers and wines; Daniela Pasta and Pastry (for pastries); Spro for coffee; and the Golden West, Grano (Grano Emporio and Grano Pasta Bar), Corner BYOB, or the Food Market for dinner.
The proprietress, her team, and the Mushroom Stand have become important staples at the Baltimore Farmers’ Market. With a huge following in Baltimore, she is known to many as the “Mushroom Lady” because she sells the most amazing mushroom dishes. The favorite (well, my favorite really) are the mushroom fritters: oyster mushrooms, beer-battered, fried, served over greens with sheep’s cheese, basil, and their special homemade hot sauce (if you like hot sauce, you should ask for a generous helping). Other equally great dishes include the portobello quinoa and portobello sandwiches. The portobellos are marinated and roasted on what looks like a big smoker. All dishes are served with the cheese and hot sauce. A logistical note: the wait can usually be a bit long, but you’ll make friends with fellow mushroom lady groupies in the process. Do a lap around the expansive market and you’ll run into a long line towards the back (not far from the pit beef stand) where people are waiting for their mushroom dishes. You’ll pay first near the fresh mushrooms and you’ll be given a number. Find a table or a parking block and don’t wait to eat. You’ll guaranteed be asked what amazingness you’re eating or bond with fellow Mushroom Stand patrons over the deliciousness.
Every year from the weekend after Thanksgiving until New Years’ Eve, the typically quiet street of 34th street in Hampden transforms into an over-the-top Christmas light display, affectionately called “Miracle on 34th Street.” Folks moving into the neighborhood know what they’re signing up for as each house on 34th street between Keswick St and Chestnut St in Hampden participates enthusiastically. In the neighborhood, Hampden, which inspired many John Waters favorites (think Hairspray!), the decorations are not your typical suburban light display. You’ll find hubcap Christmas trees, nativity scenes made of old records, and of course the light displays that pay homage to Baltimore pride (crabs, National Bohemian - aka Natty Boh, the Utz girl, and of course, the Ravens). On some nights, a few houses open up their homes - one of which showcases his amazing metal art. This is an excellent activity for kids both young and old and you can always follow it up with a delicious meal from one of the many great restaurants on the nearby “Avenue” (36th St).
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