Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a vibrant colonial city with rich indigenous roots. It has bustling marketplaces, lively fiestas, and wonderful folk art traditions. It’s a place with a fascinating history. The capital of Zapotec civilization was located on the nearby mountaintop now known as Monte Albán. Later, the Dominicans built some of their most impressive churches and convents here. A city of color, movement, and sound, as well as a cornucopia of flavors, Oaxaca also offers ample tranquil spaces where you can quietly enjoy the natural and cultural beauty of this magical area.

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Photo Courtesy of Brian Finke

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Oaxaca?

Oaxaca enjoys a pleasant climate year-round. The warmest months are usually April and May, when daytime temps can reach into the 90s, but since it is a dry heat, it’s invariably pleasant in the shade. The rainy season begins in late spring and continues through to early fall. You can expect rain in the afternoons during that time of year, but it’s not a bad time to visit: dry, brown landscapes turn lush and green. The coolest months are December and January, when nights and mornings are decidedly chilly, but daytimes are warm and sunny.

How to get around Oaxaca

Oaxaca’s international airport (OAX) receives several flights a day from Mexico City, and one daily flight from Houston. There is limited air connection from other Mexican destinations; discount airline VivaAerobus offers a few direct flights a week from Cancun and Monterrey. Bus connections are more plentiful. ADO bus company runs first-class service from the TAPO bus station in Mexico City, and frequent buses run from other Mexican destinations.

Oaxaca’s historic center is easy to get around on foot. The city plan is simple to navigate, with streets changing name north and south of Independencia, and east and west of Alcalá. Taxis are an inexpensive way to get to sites farther afield. They don’t use a meter, so it’s best to agree on a price before you get in. Taxis can be hired by the hour for sightseeing trips; or, for more information as you go, hire a guide. Public buses are cheap (6 pesos), but it can be difficult to find the routes, and there are no set schedules.

Can’t miss things to do in Oaxaca

Sit side by side with locals on a metal bench or plastic stool at one of the many street food stands throughout the city. Forget about gourmet restaurants: these stands are where some of the city’s best food is served, and the friendly banter of your dining companions will be hard to beat.

Food and drink to try in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is one of Mexico’s best foodie destinations, and many of the regional dishes date back to pre-Hispanic times. Its culinary offerings include a wide variety of corn-based dishes, and the local gastronomy also makes good use of the huge array of chiles grown in the state. Mole sauces are a specialty; you’ll hear about seven different moles, but there are in fact more. Oaxaca is a major mezcal producing center, and tasting the endless varieties is a popular pastime.

Culture in Oaxaca

The historic center of Oaxaca city and Monte Albán archaeological site were declared Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 1987, but the city’s living culture is as vibrant and colorful as its storied past. The indigenous markets and traditional celebrations have changed little since ancient times and offer a glimpse into Oaxaca’s deep cultural traditions.

Colorful fiestas happen throughout the year, and even when there’s not a major holiday, it seems there is always something to celebrate. Some of the most representative festivals are Day of the Dead (at the end of October and beginning of November), Night of the Radishes (December 23), and the Guelaguetza festival (last half of July). Oaxaca’s fiestas represent the rich and diverse cultural legacy of the Oaxacan people, and visitors are more than welcome to join in the festivities.

Local travel tips for Oaxaca

Protest marches and roadblocks are not uncommon in Oaxaca. They may hamper your ability to keep to a schedule or accomplish everything you’ve set out to do, but they are by and large peaceful.

Local Resources

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
These well-curated hotel shops will give you a sense of place and a lasting memory.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
No trip to Oaxaca is complete without spending at least a few hours sitting in one of the outdoor cafes around the Oaxaca city main square (the “Zocalo”). It’s the perfect spot to watch the street scene: couples and families walking by, vendors selling their wares, shoeshine boys offering to polish your footwear to a gleam. Strolling musicians wander by and perform a few songs in exchange for a handful of pesos. Balloon sellers with their colorful merchandise suspended above and around them entice passing children. In the morning enjoy a frothy hot chocolate with pan de yema, a local bread made with egg yolk. In the afternoon, sip a cold beer and snack on some spicy peanuts or chapulines, spicy fried grasshoppers. Any time of day, this is a wonderful spot to enjoy the bustling but unhurried pace of life in Oaxaca.
This shop offers a wide variety of high-quality handicrafts from all over Oaxaca. You’ll find a room devoted to woolen rugs, one to woodcarvings, and several to ceramics. On my most recent visit, I couldn’t resist picking up a “Catrina,” one of the female skeletons associated with Day of the Dead festivities, as well as some decorative cut paper.
Mitla is located in the Oaxaca Valley, just a short distance from Oaxaca City. However you get there, it’s worth the visit. It’s not a large site; an hour and a half will be more than enough time to walk around. There are so many things that set Mitla apart from other ruins in Mexico. First off, it’s neither Maya nor Aztec. Its influence comes from the Zapotec and Mixtec cultures. It sits right on the desert floor, so cactus, desert scrub, and aloe plants punctuate the surrounding landscape rather than jungle. There are no pyramids to climb; the highest structure on the site probably has no more than 10 or so steps to get to the top. There are no stone sculptures or carved walls to be seen anywhere. Instead, the decoration on the buildings are beautiful geometric patterns created by inlaid and interlocked pieces of stone (grecas). Amazingly enough, no two walls have the same grecas, and on some of the walls, you can still see the original red-painted stone. Some of the walls and the cupolas of the San Pedro Church (built by the invading Spaniards) have been restored to their red-colored glory. The desert backdrop, the grecas, the pops of red color – it all adds up to a very special place!
Don’t miss out! Some of Oaxaca’s best food is served on the street and in the markets. This is the way the locals eat.
Sample local specialties, sip mezcal, learn about Oaxaca’s history at the Museum of Cultures, and enjoy the scene in the Zocalo... Here’s the recipe for an idyllic day in Oaxaca.
The capital of the state in which it takes its name, Oaxaca is a destination for both art and food. Casa de Las Bugambilias, a bed-and-breakfast inn in Oaxaca’s Centro neighborhood, features locally-made artwork and crafts throughout its rooms. Travelers with more modern tastes might prefer the nearby Azul de Oaxaca Hotel + Galeria, which is housed in an 18th-century building but decorated in modern furnishings. Foodies should stay at Hotel Casa Oaxaca and book a chef-led food tour.
Fanciful woodcarvings, colorful weavings, and pottery... Many different types of folk art and handicrafts are produced in the villages around Oaxaca. Visit artisans’ homes and workshops to see how the pieces are created and learn about the people who make them.
With fiestas throughout the year, it can seem like a celebration is always happening. From religious celebrations to civic occasions, here are some of the main festivities that you might encounter in this colorful city.
Spring is a lovely time to visit Oaxaca. The weather is warm and dry, festivals and holidays showcase age-old traditions, and you can find delightful streetside refreshments like aguas frescas, organic coffees, and mezcal-flavored shaved ice.
Venture a little off the beaten path for big rewards—tlayudas and parrilladas with a view, samples of organic mezcal, and abundant archaeological treasures.