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September 2,1935, Labor Day - a hurricane hit the Florida Keys and was the first Category 5 Hurricane to make landfall in the United States. It was devastating! It struck at night and was terrifying as was recorded by any survivors.185 mile sustained winds fed the storm.The storm surge was 18 -20'. It destroyed everything in its way. Most buildings in Islamorada were leveled. The ramshackle camps of the railway workers in Windley Key and Lower Matecumbe Key were swept away. About 200 WW I Vets at the camps were killed. Henry Flagler’s dream of a railway that would connect the Keys to the mainland died that night. The railroad was torn up and was never rebuilt. A roadway -The Overseas Highway, US 1- was constructed in its place. The Keys were accessible by the road and its bridges. Only Gilbert (1988), and Wilma (2005) have surpassed the strength of the 1935 storm. The monument at MM 82 in Islamorada was unveiled in 1937 and about 4000 persons attended the dedication. The stone crypt in front of the marker holds the victims’ ashes from the makeshift pyres after the storm. In 1995, the memorial was added to the United States National Register of Historic Places. Locals, hurricane survivors, and descendants of the victims care for the monument. I stopped to visit the site. I stood there picturing the howling winds, the wall of water and recalled the stories and photos from that September, 1935. So many lost their lives and so many survivors’ lives changed overnight.

Moorings Village has a setting out of an island fantasy, stretched along one of the largest private beaches in the Keys, with more than 1,000 coconut palms shading its 18 guest villas. After a direct hit from Hurricane Irma, the resort reopened in January 2018 with 100 newly planted coconut trees, a new picturesque dock, and a refurbished swimming pool—while still maintaining its eclectic design and luxurious feel. The individually styled villas—each with a wraparound veranda—have kitchens, living and dining spaces, and a selection of artwork collected during resort owner Hubert Baudoin’s travels. Ocean activities rule the day here (unless you’re lolling in a hammock) and the property offers complimentary kayaks, paddleboards, and bikes, in addition to coordinating excursions like scuba diving, kitesurfing, sailing, and fishing. And because the resort takes up both sides of the Key of Islamorada, guests can catch the sunrise and then witness sunset while dining at either Pierre’s (an upscale spot with French fusion cuisine) or the Beach Café (a casual bistro serving Caribbean-American food). Pro tip: Book your visit to coincide with the full moon to attend the Mooring’s monthly beach party for live music, fireworks, and bonfires on the beach.

You’ve been snorkeling off a tourist catamaran in Key West, and you’ve finned within the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary—but you’ve hardly scratched the surface of this vast, watery wonderland. Designated a marine sanctuary in 1990, the protected area covers nearly 3,000 square nautical miles that stretch south of Miami, surround the Florida Keys, and extend all the way to the Dry Tortugas. More than 6,000 species of marine life are found in these incredible waters—everything from manatees and dolphins to parrot fish, sea turtles, barracuda, sharks, octopus, several species of crabs and jellyfish, and much, much more. Diving, snorkeling, and fishing are all permitted within the sanctuary, but with strict guidelines to protect the natural environment. If you have a chance to head underwater, or even just out on the water, take it.

Cheeca Lodge manages to be upscale and relaxed at the same time. This duality is perhaps best embodied in Cheeca’s flagship restaurant Atlantic’s Edge, which offers a refreshed take on island cuisine (like the roasted red snapper with dragon fruit or the hibiscus swordfish) in an elegant but breezy oceanfront setting. The 27-acre luxury resort on Islamorada Key—one of the sport-fishing capitals of the world—was renovated following damage from Hurricane Irma in 2017. The revamped lobby, fully rebuilt fishing pier, 214 redesigned guest rooms, and new Italian restaurant have made Cheeca even better than before. Airy suites feature curated artwork, hand-tufted rugs, and rattan accents, and each suite opens to a private lanai with a partially enclosed open-air jacuzzi. A new point of pride is the refreshed 5,700-square-foot spa, which now has seven treatment rooms, a wet room with Vichy shower, hydrotherapy facilities with a steam room, and a fully equipped fitness center. Still to come in early 2019 is a brand new oceanfront pool (bringing the resort’s total to three, including a saltwater lagoon) and tiki bar, 25 South. If you must leave, book a fishing excursion, sunset cruise, or round of golf at the 9-hole Jack Nicklaus-designed course—and enroll the kids in the eco-focused Camp Cheeca.

I was staying in Key Largo at the Marriott Resort. While relaxing on the beach under a large palm tree’s fronds that swayed in the breeze, I noticed a movement on the sand near the mangroves. A few seconds later a large green iguana emerged and stared at me. I reached for my camera and snapped a few shots just as the reptile wandered back into the thick mangroves. He climbed the branches and kept an eye on me as he slowly munched on the mangrove leaves. As I watched and searched the foliage, I saw several iguanas of different sizes. This was their home. Talk about the tropics... Gorgeous beaches, water sports, tropical foliage, and ... iguanas. I enjoy Key Largo and the the Marriott is a good choice. Try to get to Islamorada if you don’t have time for Marathon or points south. If you have four to five days, you can stop at Big Pine Key and Key West as well as Marathon. Each Key is unique and you’ll experience something different every day. Go to www.SEE-FloridaKeys.com for info on the Keys.

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park in Key Largo is popular among the diving and snorkeling crowd, with good reason. The first undersea park in the United States boasts a pale-white sunken algae-coated statue of Jesus Christ with outstretched arms. Unlike the Belize version (that statue of Christ is accessible only by deep-sea divers), the Key Largo version is an aquatic landmark that everyone—including the Lonely Planet Guidebook– seems to know about, and easy to spot while snorkeling out in the ocean. On a clear day (and there are too many of these to count here), you’ll see endangered sea turtles, which are making a comeback in Florida, and more fish than you’ll have bargained for. My family and I took a glass-bottom boat tour and loved spotting fat yet graceful pelicans and plenty of brown, red and white mangroves. I also realized that this was possibly the best spot in the world to practice fishing. Bryan, our skipper, agrees. “This is the best place in the world to hook and cook,” he chuckles, adding that you’re not allowed to fish in the park itself. Indeed, Key Largo and Islamorada are perhaps the best spots in the world for grouper. The park offers popular snorkeling expeditions which are around four hours long, as well as sandy beach areas.

Casa Morada’s dressed-down modern coastal style reflects a love of the ocean, island plant life, and luxurious comforts. The 16-suite boutique hotel—once a 1950s roadside motel—underwent an extensive renovation in the early 2000s that transformed it into one of the Key’s sexiest spots. The Raymond Jungles–designed gardens are lush, the outdoors showers and jacuzzis are impossibly romantic, and the resort’s private island features a freshwater pool. If you can rouse yourself for anything other than relaxing by the water, try your hand at a game of bocce, snorkle around the only living coral reef in North America, go on a sunset sail, or charter a boat tour with local resident Captain Bill to visit the Mangrove Islands or Three Sisters Bird Rookery. Pro Tip: Morning yoga classes are offered every Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday at 9, but guests can book a private session anytime.

Anyone would think that a native Floridian would have spent significant time in The Keys. To be honest, I’ve only been a handful of times and mostly it was day trips to Key West. Although the southernmost key has its own charms, I was delighted to attend the opening of the Amara Cay Resort in Islamorada. The resort, boasting 110-spacious and bright rooms/suites, is a lovely combination of sexy South Florida and life on island time. My suite was spacious with clean designs and earthy tones complementing the constant view of the blue ocean from my balcony. Located directly on the water, travelers feel as though they have stepped out of the state and onto their own private island - perfect for residents of Miami and Fort Lauderdale. Travelers are completely immersed in the modern rustic design the moment they entire the lobby, filled with reclaimed wood, and swinging papasan chairs. This is the perfect meeting point to wait for your friends and sip a cocktail or two. During my stay, I made sure to stop at Sparrows Rum Bar for oceanfront snack and beer. My friends and I danced into the night on the string-lit patio. Conveniently located next to the pool and beach, we were able to easily go back and forth. For dinner, we gorged on delicious seafood and Italian cuisine at Oltremare Ristorante. My biggest recommendation is the “Blood Lime” grapefruit cocktail, inspired by the popular Netflix show Bloodline. I’ll definitely be back the next time I need a quick escape.