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Wandering Mixologist: Scott Beattie in Bali

A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

The Durian is fondly known as the king of fruits in Southeast Asia. It’s a fruit that the locals love, but that many outsiders find to be an acquired taste. In fact, Andrew Zimmern, the presenter of the Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods, (the guy who eats the world’s craziest and weirdest things) can’t stand durians. The name durian comes from the Malay word “duri,” which means “thorns.” Cutting open a durian is an art. You have to cut along certain lines created by the thorns, which are barely visible. If you get it wrong, it would be tough to open. Once cut, you use your palms to push apart the insides to reveal the yellow flesh. The smell of the durian is strong enough to make you salivate or faint, depending on which side of the fence you are on regarding it’s taste. If you’re ever in Malaysia, you must give it a try. Who knows? You could end up liking something that Andrew Zimmern himself can’t stomach!

The Vietnamese are inveterate lovers of sweet things (just look at all those swan boats), which explains the popularity of the Fanny ice cream brand. The chain, which has branches across the country, serves up classic scoops and cones with a nod to Vietnam in flavors such as young rice, durian, and pandan.

What Pasir Bogak lacks in charm it more than makes up for in “dear sweet Jesus!” sunset moments. I present Exhibit A, your honor. Three nights in a row the sun danced her fiery dance over the ocean’s lapping waves. Three nights in a row we chilled in the sand to watch. It would have been perfect, had the beach not smelled of rotting durian and hot garbage. We should have bought a boat. If you make it to Pangkor Island, a long-forgotten slice of East Coast charm, I suggest you visit the beach at Pasir Bogak during sunset. But don’t bother swimming here. Don’t bother staying here, for that matter. Isolated Turtle Beach is where you really want to be.

If you love exploring markets, like I do, Kota Kinabalu’s Central Market is not to be missed. Located on the busy waterfront, the Central Market is a riot of colourful produce. Here you can find dozens of varieties of bananas, prickly rambutan, and the ever present (and smelly) durian. There are also grains, rice and a variety of hot sauces, all made locally. Next door, you can explore the Wet Market, where you’ll see all manner of creatures from the sea - so fresh, some are still swimming. Continue along the waterfront to discover local crafts at the Kota Kinabalu Handicraft Market, (formerly known as the Filipino Market). In front of the market you can watch tailors work on beautiful old pedal-powered sewing machines. Inside is a treasure trove of jewelry, clothing and other local crafts. If you visit in the evening, be sure to go hungry, as the night market comes alive with stalls of tasty treats - from satays to grab on the go to full sit-down seafood curry dinners. Yum! More information on Kota Kinabalu: http://cheeseweb.eu/2013/05/visiting-kota-kinabalu-sabah-malaysian-borneo/

Here’s a novel concept; markets that pop up around the island in different locations each day of the week. I shot this while wandering the Monday Market near Saladan Village (the main settlement) on the northern tip of Koh Lanta. Despite the market’s proximity to the island’s main tourist hub, it was surprisingly void of foreign visitors. The Monday Market is run by locals and caters to local tastes - which makes it a fantastic place to explore with a camera. I don’t often make images of children (I scare them, I guess), but I couldn’t resist firing a few frames of this girl in the fruit isle. It’s a departure from the grittier market fare I often come home with - perhaps that’s why I’m so fond of such a simple picture. Insider tip: a smile takes you a long way in a Thai market - and often leads to more free samples than you find at Costco on a Saturday. Be polite, and try anything your gracious host offers you, including roasted beetles and/or funky durian fruit.

One of the country’s largest Asian markets, this massive complex has anchored the International District since 1928—and contains a Japanese bookstore, a 12-station food court, and a Taiwanese hot-pot hot spot: The Boiling Point. Its shelves stock everything from curry to durians and juicy kalua pork, plus surprisingly good, affordable freezer bags to preserve your haul on the way home. Fancy a quick bite in the food court first? Hit Uwajimaya’s Asian deli last and pay at the express lane. While one-stop shopping rocks, fans of Asian curios and calligraphy supplies may want to wander to nearby Kobo (koboseattle.com) or Deng’s Studio and Art Gallery.

This shopping center is at the heart of the Windows of the World/OCT area in Shenzhen. It sits at the intersection of the Shekou and Luobao Metro Lines, and it is also home to the lovely 5-star Westin Hotel. While this center has some great shops like H&M, Zara, Muji, and Shenzhen’s first Apple Store, it also has some hidden gems. The basement has an ice skating rink that’s a cool escape from the Shenzhen heat. It also has little shops that sell candy, fruity desserts, tea, and more. The restaurants here are great, too. Try King Dumplings on B2, a Taiwanese restaurant. You can get here from the Metro without going outside. Just take Exit A.

You have to get up early in the morning to enjoy the fruits on offer at the floating Halong Bay market. Purveyors come out with dragon fruits, lychees, durians and other fruits as early as 5 a.m. and then wind up sales by about 10 a.m. While this floating market is smaller than those in the Mekong Delta and others in southern Vietnam, it still provides for some amazing photo opportunities.