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Why we love it: A peaceful eco-lodge on Dominica’s “wild” southeast coast

Highlights:
- A “barefoot luxury” vibe
- Proximity to the beach
- Villas surrounded by a working fruit plantation

The Review:
An agritourism pioneer, Citrus Creek blends hospitality with a tropical fruit plantation on Dominica’s rugged east coast. In building the resort, owner Hervé “RV” Nizard repurposed parts of his 20-acre farm in Taberi, adding a dozen self-catering cottages and villas. Ranging from one to three bedrooms, the accommodations include a safari tent and a stone tree house. Focused on nature, Citrus Creek trades TVs for rainforest hikes and a swimming pool for plunges in a pristine river. The property also lacks air-conditioning, but shade trees and prevailing winds keep it comfortable year-round and help maintain a “barefoot luxury” vibe.

Each room has a kitchen, stocked with breakfast goodies like tea, coffee, bread, butter, jam, and honey. For those who would rather dine out, a cafe offers half-board plans and operates every day from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (or later with reservations). Take your dinner on the veranda overlooking the river, choosing among French-Caribbean delicacies like onion pie, caramel pork, grilled lionfish, and smoked marlin quiche. Other on-site perks include a tour desk, car rentals, and, soon, a pier set within the jungle that will be equipped to welcome sailboats.

No one quite remembers when the hipsters started flooding into what is still a rather Kiwanis-club-style banquet hall for Mexico’s Spanish community, but they’re here to stay. Arts and media types, often in large, vociferous groups, favor the ground-floor cantina—a wide-open, too-brightly-lit space featuring a fabulous midcentury bar—where they rub elbows with domino-slamming old-timers. Yes, drinking is the big idea, but the menu of old-school Spanish fare (tortilla omelettes, croquetas, seafood, and pork dishes) is entirely serviceable, particularly after midnight when attendance peaks (it’s said it only closes after everyone clears out, almost always in the wee hours). Everyone who’s anyone claims to be “over” Covadonga, yet there they are, nightly, cutting up with beloved friends; keep your eyes peeled for genius writers you wouldn’t recognize anyway.

Named for its owner’s “poz-itive” vibe, this casual, welcoming restaurant ranks among Dominica’s best. Expect Cajun, Creole, and Caribbean fare in the mix, along with fusion dishes and strong vegetarian options. Menu standouts include callaloo soup, veggie rice, and snapper in coconut-curry sauce, but the lobster, grilled with lemon-garlic butter, tends to steal all the headlines—or at least those not occupied by the fresh juices and home-infused vodkas. Open for dinner only, Poz is quite small in size, so make a reservation to avoid waiting for a table.

Calle Ocho or Little Havana is where all things Cuban and Latino come together in Miami. Start your walking tour of Little Havana at Maximo Gomez Park (aka Domino Park). If you play dominoes and have the patience to wait for a spot at a table, you will be in on the hottest game this side of the Florida Straits. Or just watch as all ages face off for hours and hours. Then follow the pink marble of the Calle Ocho Walk of Fame that honors Latin stars such as the Queen of Salsa, Celia Cruz. Stop for tostones (fried plantains) and ropa vieja (shredded beef), or a medianoche, a morning or late-night version of the Cuban sandwich with sweeter, lighter bread. And don’t be afraid to try some chicharrones (fried pork rinds). ¡Buen provecho!

Bien Mur Indian Market Center in Sandia Pueblo is an excellent spot to buy a wide range of turquoise jewelry (from Hopi, Navajo, Santo Domingo, and Zuni tribes), handmade Native American rugs, Pendleton blankets, and sand paintings. Not to worry, the pricing practices are fair.

When Domingo Ghirardelli immigrated to the United States in 1849, he planned to strike it rich in the California Gold Rush. Unsuccessful, he opened a store in Stockton selling supplies and some confections to other hopeful miners. Flash forward a few years (and failed businesses), and Ghirardelli opened another confectionary company called Ghirardely & Girard, which would lay the foundation for today’s Ghirardelli Chocolate Company.

Chocolate was made on San Francisco‘s northern waterfront for many years but eventually moved out of the city. Luckily the buildings still stand, including the historic power plant with clock tower. Two floors were added to a warehouse in 1923, and atop those the famous 15-foot-high letters spelling out “Ghirardelli.” Though the company continues to make chocolate, it is no longer owned by the Ghirardelli family.

Still, there are plenty of reasons to visit the brick buildings that have been transformed into a thriving marketplace with restaurants—including our favorite, an upscale dim sum restaurant, Palette Tea House—, art galleries, shops, a winetasting room, and of course, a place to taste and buy Ghirardelli chocolate, a true San Francisco original. The square also hosts some popular San Francisco events, including an annual Christmas tree lighting and a chocolate festival held each September.

In the Rossio in Lisbon, there is a tiny, very popular tavern called “Ginjinha Sem Rival” (Ginjinha Without Rivals or The Best Ginjinha), 7 Rua Portas de Santo Antao. This shop was the first to sell this now famous liqueur. The family has produced this brew for about 150 years and opened this establishment after about 27 years, in 1890. They value their recipe and the family still runs the tavern. Ginjinha is a concoction of water, cinnamon, sugar, aguardente (fire water), and sour cherries. Many people really enjoy it. I am sorry to admit that I have tried it and I do not. Stand in the little area by the Church of St. Domingues and watch the people (tourists and locals alike) wait their turn at the small counter. Almost all seem to enjoy the ginjinha and the ritual wait. They step up and the owner pours the drink and asks “Com o sem”? (with or without?) You decide if you want the cherries or not. Be forewarned - the cherries hold most of the liquor and are pretty potent! Stop by and try ginjinha and see if you like it. You might want to try another tavern or two and compare the liqueurs. This is a fun stop to add to your “to do list” in Lisbon.

Close to the Haitian border on the Dominican Republic’s northwestern coast, this white-sand beach, which is part of Montecristi National Park, sits below an 800-foot-high limestone mesa. Hike a rough stretch through rocks to the beach and you’ll find clear water but strong currents—these waves are not for children, and even excellent swimmers should be very cautious. Shipwrecks from the colonial days draw experienced divers to nearby Isla Cabrita, while empty sands attract Dominican families on weekends. Playa El Morro is almost completely off the tourist radar and all but deserted on weekdays.

Medellín’s urban renewal, following decades as one of the world’s murder capitals, has drawn international attention. Perhaps nothing symbolizes the revival more than the Metrocable, a system of cable cars that connect the city center to steep hillside neighborhoods that were once reckoned to be the city’s most dangerous. Grab a ride on Line K up to Santo Domingo and treat yourself to spectacular views. Once on the ground again, take a short wander around the neighborhood for a taste of the real Medellín and its friendly residents (known as Paisas), and see the small shops and the beautiful library whose original benefactor was the government of Spain. From Santo Domingo, another cable car continues to Parque Arví, an expansive nature reserve and weekend escape favored by overheated locals.

This lively beachside restaurant overlooks the yachts moored in Portsmouth’s sweeping Prince Rupert’s Bay. Retire here after swimming and lounging on the black sands for a cold Kubuli beer or cherry punch, plus ribs, lobster, and coconut shrimp. Make sure to also try side dishes like boiled yam, taro, or sweet potatoes, sometimes livened by plantains and breadfruit—these heavy carbs once fueled Caribbean slaves and remain a staple in Dominica.

Oaxaca is known for its moles. The most famous is mole negro, the black mole—a thick, rich mixture of ground chiles, nuts, chocolate, and other ingredients. But that’s not the only type of mole you’ll find here. Los Pacos specializes in these rich sauces and you can sample seven different kinds to compare and see which you like best. If you find one you really love, they sell mole paste to take home with you, so you can prepare Oaxacan mole yourself. Los Pacos has two locations. The original is on Belisario Dominguez in the Colonia Reforma (north of the city center). This location is more popular among locals, and has an outdoor children’s play area. The other is on Abasolo in the historical center. The centrally located one has a roof terrace, perfect for enjoying warm evenings in Oaxaca.

The laid-back restaurant Carbon Caribbean Cuisine takes you on a culinary journey around the Caribbean. You can order typical dishes from Cuba, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, and, of course, the Dominican Republic. Popular with locals, Carbon offers a glimpse of island life beyond the beaches and resorts.

Near the Dominican Republic’s northwestern border with Haiti, the city of Montecristo, and El Morro National Park, this 12-room lodge makes a great base for exploring subtropical forestland and boating through mangroves. Warm woods, neutral tones, and black-and-white photos decorate the lovely understated guestrooms, while comfy loungers and lush greenery surround the bean-shaped pool. Spend your days bird-watching in the national park, deep-sea fishing, kayaking, or snorkeling off the cactus-covered Seven Brothers Island, then head back to the hotel for traditional Dominican dishes at El Morro, wood-fired pizzas at Restaurant Bubí, or drinks at the lobby bar.

Why we love it: A kitted-out heritage hotel presiding over the capital

Highlights:
- A historic seaside property
- On-site dive shop and kids’ club
- Hot tubs and an infinity pool cantilevered over the ocean

The Review:
Charming elements remain from Fort Young Hotel’s past as a military fortification, like bronze canons and thick stone walls. Set on a cliff south of Roseau, the heritage property also has 72 modern rooms, all with air conditioning and balconies—most with sea views. Some spaces are massive, such as the oceanfront suites, which each contain a kitchenette, dressing room, two bathrooms, a whirlpool tub, and a dining area that can seat eight. On-site restaurant options range from a mellow seaside bar to The Palisades (one of Dominica’s more gourmet experiences), while amenities include a dive shop and kids’ club.

On the wellness front, the hotel offers a 24-7 gym with floor-to-ceiling windows and Caribbean Sea vistas. Outside sprawl two sundecks, along with an infinity pool and jacuzzies—hot and cold—cantilevered over the ocean. The spa renovations will wrap up in 2019, but guests can still enjoy massages in their rooms or on their balconies. The hotel is also just a short stroll from Roseau’s center, ferry port, botanic gardens, and Saturday markets, not to mention the cathedral and the Dominica Museum. Note: cruise ships dock nearby and can obliterate the water views while in port. Also, post-hurricane renovations will be underway through autumn 2019 and may add some noise during business hours.

An hour’s cross-island drive takes you to Kalinago Territory, officially established in 1903 as the Caribbean’s only autonomous enclave for indigenous people. The settlement covers six square miles, and many of its 3,000 inhabitants live in traditional wooden huts. Guests are welcome at a model village, where they can watch dance performances and shop for reed baskets and other crafts.