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Close by the Lapa arches there’s a round tent that everyone in Rio knows and loves. Beyond being just a concert venue, it’s a cultural (and countercultural) icon with its own fascinating backstory. It all started in 1982 in Arpoador, an Ipanema beach hot spot, when a group of artists pitched a circus tent to display their work. After several ups and downs, the city government granted them the land where the arena now stands. Its amazing program includes performances by major international acts, but above all it’s a venue every local musician dreams of playing.

Only in Rio can you happen onto a tropical paradise without leaving city limits. About 22 miles west of Copacabana lies Prainha. The name calls up a small beach that’s in fact a sand formation in an ecological reserve surrounded by the Atlantic Forest (Mata Atlântica), with its complete variety of plant and animal life. Known as one of the city’s surfing meccas, it’s a gem for anyone keen on sun and waves. Eat fresh seafood right on the beach, and if you brought your board, take the surf-bus that connects to the city’s most popular tourist areas.

If you’re feeling a bit short of breath, you’re not imagining things: the elevation of this restaurant, is more or less on par with Denver at around a mile high. Special not only because of its altitude, this restaurant is also unique because of its location in a volcano (don’t worry; it won’t erupt). Ceviche and grilled meats are the specialties of the house, which diners enjoy while watching hummingbirds flutter about in the air.

The beach may be the magnet that draws crowds to Trancoso but its the Quadrado that is the heart of the town. The town square sits atop a hilltop offering stunning views of the mangrove forest and sea below. The 1,050-feet-long green park is anchored by the town’s iconic white church and bordered by 50 or so Crayola-colored old fisherman houses. During the day most of the homes stay shuttered due to the heat. But by 5pm, particularly during the peak summer season, they open their doors to reveal chic boutiques and art galleries, restaurants, and pousadas like Uxua and El Gordo. At sunset wild horses graze in the square sometimes interrupt the local kids’ soccer game. The square is filled with crowds after sunset, and artists and artisans come out to sells their goods while musicians come to play music and capoiera dancers come entertain passersby.

The Real Gabinete is a public library—but not the kind you find every day. This neo-Gothic pile, erected by Rio’s dynamic 19th-century Portuguese community, holds 350,000 valuable volumes, impressively shelved in immense floor-to-ceiling bookcases. The rich, evocative interior calls up faraway times and places; the reading room’s iron chandelier and multicolored clerestory enchant visitors who are welcome to sit down and read as well. Only when you’re back on Rio’s bustling downtown streets will you realize just what an oasis the Gabinete is.

This restaurant’s name hints at one of its principal attributes: its view. “Mirador” means “scenic overlook,” and the vista here—of Lake Suchitlán-- earns the name. In fact, many of the guests stop by the restaurant on their way to or from a day trip to the lake itself. Cormorants and other large birds swoop gracefully across the sky as diners indulge in churrasco steaks and other Salvadoran specialties.

The country’s original Palacio Nacional burned down in 1889; the one standing today was rebuilt between 1905 and 1911. It’s said that the structure was paid for by levying a sort of tax on coffee exports: one colón for every 100 pounds of coffee. Visitors may be disappointed that they can’t access most of the interior rooms, but they can walk through the beautiful courtyard and learn more about the building’s history with museum exhibits in English and Spanish.

Even though artisanal ice cream parlors (Vero, Venchi, Bacio di Late, Officina del Gelato) have been moving into the best locations in Rio’s southern districts, none has quite nailed the style of Europe’s great ice cream masters. That said, the Italian tradition of gelato has clearly come to dominate the scene in this city that lives to eat frozen confections. First-timers to Gelateria Momo are advised to choose between a variety of chocolates and the caramel with fleur de sel. If you become a regular, pay attention: There’s a new flavor every day, including—naturally enough—a full line of tropical fruits. Add-ons include waffles and organic coffee, and everything is served in an ample, pleasant, living room–like space.

For much of its history, the western edges of Manhattan neighborhoods like the West Village and Chelsea consisted of small manufacturing buildings and warehouses that served the piers on the Hudson River. Over time, those factories were replaced with residential developments, and shipping largely moved out to Brooklyn and New Jersey. What remained, however, was an abandoned light-rail line, located above street level. After 10 years of lobbying the city, state, and federal governments, the first section of the High Line park opened in 2009. It now extends for 1.45 miles, from Gansevoort Street in the south to 34th Street at its other end. An innovative design by James Corner Field Operations uses native species to preserve some of the feeling the old rail line had when it was overgrown with weeds. It has quickly become one of New York’s most popular attractions, both with residents and visitors who stroll the length of it, as well as a model for other cities attempting to find new uses for old infrastructure.

Imagine an entire jungle, summarized in a park. That’s the essence of the city’s incredible botanical garden, a 345-acre marvel (136 acres have been gardened and manicured to a fault) where visitors brush up against 10,000 plants of 1,500 separate species. Since 1908, it has served Rio as a sort of tropical guardian where the city’s greatest treasure—its nature—is gathered, studied, and even reproduced. It’s a must-do, rain or shine, and at certain seasons, sections like the orchidarium or the Queen Victoria water-lily pond really come into their own. Near the entrance, a stately alley of imperial palms has become the garden’s emblematic signature.

Among all the odd-shaped mountains that adorn the Rio horizon, Sugarloaf (Pão de Açúcar in Portuguese) stands apart for its majesty and fortuitous placement. Sugarloaf is part of a single landmark along with sister peak Urca, to which it connects via a now-century-old cable car locals call the bondinho. When you reach the top of the rounded outcropping, 1,300 feet up, it’s hard to decide what to look at: You’ve got 360 degrees of Rio from on high. The recommended (and most sought-after) visiting hour is sunset. Yet there’s no hurry to descend before night falls. Seeing the lights come up in the cidade maravilhosa is well worth a tarry.

The sight of the little yellow streetcar rumbling across the top of the Lapa aqueduct’s arches, making its way uphill to the neighborhood known as Santa Teresa, is a city classic. An accident had it shut down for five years, and the new bondinho may lack some of its former authenticity (for one thing, there used to be more locals aboard); yet the tropicalized Lisbon flavor of the neighborhood’s streets is still in place. Visitors can access points of interest such as the Parque das Ruínas aboard the trolley, then wander the district’s streets on foot till they reach the famed Selarón stairs that go back down to Lapa.

There are nearly as many snorkeling options in Los Cabos as there are fish in the Sea of Cortés, and that’s saying a lot. If you’re somebody who prefers going it alone, pick up a snorkeling mask and fins and head to Chileno Bay for some undisturbed fish-seeing. But if you need a little more hands-on guidance, the outfit to dial is Pez Gato. Their twice-daily, four-hour tour includes everything you’ll need—snorkeling gear, drinks, fresh fruit, and sandwiches—plus a friendly and knowledgeable crew who will keep you entertained with facts about the region as you navigate the waters to Santa Maria, a horseshoe-shaped bay that’s home to a marine sanctuary and some of the clearest waters around.

A mixed-use space for art, education, and history—inside a restored early-20th-century palace—the Museu de Arte do Rio (MAR) is a landmark in the city’s harbor zone. Walk from the top floor down, fifth to first, following an exhibition itinerary that touches on different elements that have left their mark on Rio’s rich history. At the end of the visit, go back upstairs for some refreshment at the excellent terrace restaurant that offers boffo views of Guanabara Bay. On the plaza out front, the Museu do Amanhã (Museum of Tomorrow), a science museum housed in a stunning building designed by architect Santiago Calatrava, can provide a visit that nicely pairs with your MAR expedition.

Rio lacks São Paulo’s strong Italian traditions. Perhaps that’s why some of Rio’s best pizza in fact comes from there—like Pizzaria Bráz, if you can judge by critics and mad-crazy crowds that pack into this spot on the Jardim Botânico district’s liveliest street. The pizzas start as a thin, wood-smoked dough and then are topped with mozzarella and a sauce made from a careful selection of tomatoes, and sometimes involve elaborate toppings that add up to capreses, the classic Braz, or even more daring recipes like those with wild-game cold cuts. Appetizers, too, keep ’em coming back (pão de linguiça, a divine sausage bread, for example); and you’re served a capital chopp at your table or even as you wait in line at the door.