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The shops of the Grand Bazaar are often derided as a tourist trap. Yes, you may want to see the historic setting, the common wisdom goes, but when it comes to actually shopping, you’ll get better quality at lower prices outside of the bazaar. There are so many exceptions to this “rule,” however, that it’s hardly worth repeating. One of the bazaar’s gems is Sivalsi Istanbul Yazmacisi at No. 57 on Yaglikçilar, the fabric “street.” The small shop’s shelves are covered with embroidered pieces, ikat-dyed fabrics, and ones with traditional Turkish patterns, from light cottons and silks to heavy wools. In short, you’ll find pretty much whatever Turkish or Middle Eastern fabric you might want, appropriate for everything from upholstery to clothing. The owners, Murat and Necdet Bey, count designer Rifat Ozbek, New York’s ABC Carpet & Home, and interior decorators and architects among their clients, but they still have time for ordinary customers interested in Turkish textiles. Prices are pretty much set but fair, starting at around $25 per square meter and going up to $600 and beyond for hand-embroidered pieces.

In Istanbul, the most authentic place to smoke nargile (also known as hookah and shisha) is Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi. The 300-year-old Medrese evolved from a religious school and dervish lodge during the Ottoman times to bazaar stores in the mid-20th century to its current form—a respite for locals and tourists from the bustling Grand Bazaar district. Relax amid the bubbling sounds of the nargile while indulging in the wafting aromas of fruity tobacco. Alcohol is not served; instead, savor a Turkish tea in a tulip-shaped glass or try “boomba” tea with lemon, hibiscus, and mint at the café on the left as you enter the complex. In winter, the warm milky cinnamon drink called salep is a local favorite. The customers are mainly men, but ladies, don’t feel intimidated. It’s a great place to people watch and meet locals who speak many languages. Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi is open till 2am and located on the tram line between Cemberlitas and Beyazit/Grand Bazaar stations. If you want my recommendation, try the apple and mint or rose and mint nargile—best shared with old and new friends. Afiyet Olsun (bon appetit)!

Intricate textiles woven on looms handed down through generations. An array of laurel, olive, and lavender bath products and the hammered bowls to hold them. Silk shawls with which to drape the color of the Aegean in a graceful arc below bare shoulders. All organic and produced locally, with the specific intent of preserving a dying art. Jennifer’s Hamam works with traditional Turkish weavers to produce luxuriously looped Turkish towels, flat-woven pestamels (the towels and wraps used in hamams, similar to a sarong), and fine silks woven from hand-spun thread. Looms are passed from one generation to the next. New designs evolve over time. Part entrepreneur and part preservationist, Jennifer and her staff are generous with their knowledge and delight in sharing their affordable luxuries. Wander, shop, and emerge enlightened. Accessibility: A wheeled walker can easily maneuver the main path of the Arasta Bazaar.

Just across the street from the Pera Palace Hotel, Meze by Lemon Tree is an intimate restaurant—with seating for about 30—and a limited menu with four meat entrées and three fish ones. The main attraction, however, is the meze. Sometimes innovative (as with a seaweed salad with ginger) and other times traditional, they are all tasty. Pick your cold choices from a refrigerated case; the menu varies daily but you can expect some marinated fish options, bean and grain dishes, and pickled vegetables. Each portion for two is 11TL. Hot options may include fried fish and baked phyllo dishes. The wine and raki list is extensive. Leave room for the Balli Bademli Cevizli Kaymakli Muz or, in English, bananas topped with nuts and clotted cream, drizzled with honey. The unusual addition of chili sauce gives this sweet dessert a savory and spicy edge.

Most visitors to Istanbul probably don’t realize that there is a fortress there. Located on the western shore of the Bosphorus (just south of Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge) is a fortress that dates back to pre-Ottoman rule. Rumeli Hisarı (“roo-mel-li hee-sah-ruh”) was built in 1452 by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror in preparation for his invasion of Byzantine Constantinople. The sultan built the fortress across the Bosphorus from the Anadolou Hisarı. Strategically, the two fortresses are located at the narrowest point of the Bosphorus which allowed the Ottomans to prevent aid and supplies from ever reaching Constantinople. These days, the fort is a museum and a nice place for a stroll to catch magnificent views of the Bosphorus from the European side. There is a small entry free. The fort is closed on Wednesdays. In my opinion, the best time to go is Saturday morning because there is a town, within easy walking distance, that holds its weekly market then. Plus, there are plenty of cafes to catch a bite or drink. There are several ways you can get to Rumeli Hisarı but I took the No 559C bus from Taksim Square. It ends at the town above the fortress and it’s about a 10 minute downhill walk from there. You can catch the return bus to Taksim. Just ask the driver for information. Not many tourists come to Rumeli Hisarı so you can catch a bit of local life that’s not been tainted by tourism. You’ll truly be off the beaten path!

This beautiful 19th-century palace on the Asian shoreline near the First Bosphorus Bridge served as a summer retreat for sultans and visiting dignitaries. Designed in a French neo-Baroque style, the palace features six halls and 24 rooms adjacent to an expansive garden. Complete with halls devoted to the harem, it is also famous for being the place of house arrest of one of the last sultans, Abdülhamīd II, who died in the palace in 1918.

Reina, with its sublime ambience, elegant style, and idyllic setting, is the place to go to kick up some classy heels right on the Bosporus. Dress to impress, and come dine on a selection of international dishes at one of the four restaurants—before retreating to the bar for wine, beer, cocktails, or top-quality spirits. When the clock strikes midnight, the venue becomes a vivacious nightclub. Reina’s prestigious reputation has lured its fair share of A-list celebrities including supermodel Gisele Bündchen, actors Daniel Craig, Salma Hayek, Uma Thurman, Jennifer Lopez, and musicians Bon Jovi, Sting and Lionel Richie. Bookings are essential and gentlemen, if you’re single and planning a night at Reina, do ring ahead. Most of the elite clubs in Istanbul are apprehensive about allowing entrance to groups of men without ladies by their side. Photo provided by Su Entertainment Group.

If you’re keen to experience the medieval practice of “kahve falı” or “fal” (fortune telling with Turkish coffee) then make an appointment at Symbol Café in Nişantaşı with Tunc, one of the few English-speaking coffee readers in the city. Once there, order a Turkish coffee with “sade” (no sugar), “az” (little sugar), “orta” (medium sugar), or “şekerli” (sweet), and savor the flavor of a rich aromatic coffee as you ponder your life’s ambitions. When the last drop leaves your lips and all that is left are the grinds sunk deep in the demitasse (small cup), take the saucer and gently seal it atop the cup. Swirl the cup and saucer clockwise three times and then flip them both toward you, holding them firmly so as not to spill the grinds. Relax as the grinds dry out, and wait for Tunc to find you in the cozy café filled with locals who are also eager for readings. When Tunc hypnotically gazes at the grinds to interpret the patterns before his eyes, expect to hear about your past, present, and future with uncanny accuracy (or at least that’s what happened to me). Facts about your life, love, career, money, family, and travel will spill out of the cup for Tunc to interpret without you mentioning a word. Symbol Cafe is at Valikonağı Caddesi (Street) No: 34 Nişantaşı - İstanbul - Telephone: (0212) 291 75 40. The closest train stop to Symbols Cafe is Osmanbey Metro Station, one stop from Taksim Square.

The sun sets over Istanbul as I am coated head to toe with aromatic clay and served fresh fruit sprinkled with pistachios under the heavenly dome of a 457 year old hamam. Tenderly, my attendant washes me before lathering my body with olive oil soap and encasing me in a plume of ticklish bubbles. Like a mother to a child, she washes me again as the call to pray of the Blue Mosque and Aya Sophia echo outside. This is ‘life’ at the Aya Sophia Hurrem Sultan Hamami. The hamam is named after the famous 16th-century Ottoman icon Hurrem, or Roxolana as she is also known. Hurrem went from slave girl to favored concubine, to legal wife of the most popular Sultan Suleiman. She gave birth to princes and princess and greatly influenced the politics of the Ottoman Empire. The hamam was built by Ottoman architect, Mimar Sinan to honor her in 1556. It is nestled between the Blue Mosque and Aya Sophia. The hamam offers 5 star packages with 5 star services that leave you completely blissed out. I had the uber-relaxing 90 minute Ab-I Hayat Package consisting of wash, body mask, scrub, bubbles and 40 minute oil massage. Whilst other hamams are cheaper, you won’t be disappointed here. Private changing rooms and massage rooms, golden bath bowls, silk and cotton towels, tasty blackberry sherbet drink—the personalized service is truly special. With the motto, “Some rituals never die” the hamam’s luxuries will leave you feeling like Sultan Hurrem herself.

For a Saturday night out, many locals will head to Beyoğlu’s liveliest street, Nevizade, lined with meyhanes (taverns) and bars where mezes (starters) and seafood are peddled openly and the rakı (aniseed liquor) and Efes beer flow freely. Highlights of a night here are the musicians who roam playing fasıl tunes (classical Turkish music) accompanied with darbuka (drums), violin, clarinet, and the kanun (a triangular-shaped string instrument that sits on the lap or a table). If they come to your table and play a song or two, it’s customary to tip them 10-15T lira. It’s also customary that if you do not wish to part with your money, you politely gesture them to move on before a note is played. Judging by the number of explanatory brackets in this article, a night on Nevizade is a cultural experience and a great way to immerse yourself in local nightlife. Be wary, though—like any crowded place in any part of the world, Nevizade does get very busy, so keep an eye on your valuables. To find Nevizade, walk along Istiklal Caddesi and turn onto Balik Sokak near Çiçek Passage. Nevizade runs off Balik Sokak on the right.

Located on the Samaná Peninsula, 300 feet above Playa Cosón and the Atlantic Ocean, this 18th-century, plantation-style home impresses with Victorian trim and wraparound terraces perfect for sipping cocktails in the shade. Inside, antiques from Asia, Europe, and Turkey; rugs from Istanbul; and details like Brazilian hardwood floors and French doors add further charm. The six guestrooms, all housed on the second floor, feature four-poster beds, mahogany soaking tubs, and private terraces—rooms 5 and 6 have the best ocean views.

Breakfast and dinner are served on vintage china in the main house, while lunch takes place a seven-minute shuttle ride away at the Beach Club. This is where you’ll also find the inn’s pristine beach, a nearly 90-foot stretch of sand that’s mostly empty, great for swimming, and considered one of the country’s best places for kiteboarding. When you’re not lounging here, visit the town of Las Terrenas (just 10 minutes away) or try to spot the humpback whales that migrate from as far off as Greenland and Iceland to mate and calve in the warm waters surrounding the Samaná Peninsula (every January through March).

Stylish, secluded Likya Gardens is a hideaway amid the cliffs of Kalkan, a humble old fishing town on Turkey’s Turquoise Coast. Each of the seven suites has its own pool and a patio set on stilts, offering views of a crystal-blue bay and brightly colored fishing boats. Guests can sun on nearby beaches such as Patara or Kaputaş, or enjoy the privacy of the hotel’s beach club, where Moroccan-style cabanas are tricked out with minibars, laptops, and Wi-Fi. Personal butlers can deliver breakfast and book tables at the town’s rooftop restaurants; they’ll even arrange day trips to the Hidden Canyon, with its Indiana Jones–style swinging bridge. From $450. This appeared in the June/July 2014 issue.

On the Asian side, south of the First Bosphorus Bridge, Kuzguncuk is a charming detour from the well-worn tourist trail and easily combined with a visit to nearby Beylerbeyi Palace. The neighborhood’s multicultural past is very much present, with synagogues, Armenian and Greek churches, and mosques located side by side. You can also expect to find cafes, art galleries, and fresh produce shops. Venture off the leafy main street (Icediye Caddesi) to admire the pretty facades of narrow townhouses and decorative wooden Ottoman abodes, many dating back to the 19th century. To find Kuzguncuk, take the ferry or Marmaray Rail to Üsküdar and follow the Bosphorus shoreline about a mile north (by foot or blue minibus) to Icediye Caddesi.

A popular summertime refrain in Istanbul is: “Shall we meet at Mama Shelter?” When you arrive at the venue, high above the streets of bohemian Beyoglu, you can see why it’s popular with Istanbul’s sophisticated set. This vibrant, yet relaxed, open-air rooftop terrace sits just off Istiklal Street above the stylish rooms of the international hotel chain of the same name. Designed with the eclectic tastes of Philippe Starck, Mama Shelter Istanbul is proving to be a swanky place to kick back to enjoy a meal or drinks. Choose to sit with a panoramic view of old Istanbul or recline in a day bed as you gaze at the skyscrapers populating the business district of Sisli.

Sarma is the third outpost in restaurateur Ana Sortun’s Boston empire after the acclaimed Oleana and Sofra. Meyhanes—literally, “houses of wine”—have been social gathering places in Istanbul since Byzantium, and Sarma channels the communal spirit of these traditional Turkish bar/restaurants while serving up craft cocktails, local beer, and of course wine, not to mention typical meyhane snacks like parsnip fritters and lamb kofte (albeit the latter in slider form). Mezes, the eastern Mediterranean’s version of tapas, are also dished up alongside sarma wraps and shish kebab: Chef/owner Cassie Piuma gets creative with the latter, skewering and grilling scallops, quail, and barbecued duck.