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Young artists stake their claim to the city’s open spaces.

Chris Walker and Morgan Hartley spent three months cycling through central Asia as part of an 18-month bike trip. Here is part one of five of their account, in which their trip is almost thwarted from the start.

The 40,000-square-foot Anazoe Spa, shared between the Romanos and the Westin hotels in the Costa Navarino resort, created its oil-based remedies from the prescriptions archaeologists discovered inscribed in clay in the nearby ruins of Nestor’s palace. Services incorporate Anazoe’s anti-inflammatory massage oil, made from sweet almonds, and olives grown on the property. Costa Navarino, 30/272-309-7000. This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue.

For an exclusive experience, Navarino Collections at Navarino Dunes is a must visit. The venue features items made specifically for Navarino Collections. For example, there are clothes by brands such as Ralph Lauren featuring the Costa Navarino logo that cannot be found anywhere else. In addition, Costa Navarino has launched its own series of authentic Messinia-inspired products through the Navarino Icons company. Upon arrival in Messinia this is also a great stop as Navarino Collections doubles as an information center offering local travel advice and activity planning.

Located in Messinia’s Mediterranean area, this popular beach is most well-known for its distinct “omega” shape. Locals and visitors come here to lap up the waves, admire the dunes, sunbathe on soft sand, hike, and bird watch. Other attractions located above the beach include Nestor’s Cave, the ruins of Old Navarino Castle, and the tomb of Thrasymedes (Mycenaean period). As you climb, you’ll enjoy aerial views of the Divari Lagoon of Gialova, Navarino Bay, and the olive tree-littered Peloponnesian Hills. Interestingly, Voidokilia Beach is believed to be the place mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey, where Telemachus (son of Odysseus and Penelope in Greek mythology) was greeted by King Nestor—who is thought to have used the beach as a port during ancient times—when searching for his father. For a guided experience, Navarino Outdoors offers a bike tour of the beautiful Voidokilia, with time to swim and enjoy views of Gialova Lagoon.

The art collections housed in the great museums of Los Angeles are as varied as the museums themselves. At Getty’s grand villa above the Pacific, marble statues from ancient Greece oversee gardens and fountains. Behind the dazzling ultramodern facade of the Broad, visitors find ultramodern artworks, too. Even when the beaches and rooftop bars beckon, leave time in your schedule to tour these outstanding museums.

Also known as Old Navarino Castle, Paleokastro—built by the Frankish ruler Nicholas II de St. Omer around 1278—is located above Voidokila Beach in Messinia’s Mediterranean area. Make sure to bring your camera, as a trek to the castle awards panoramic views of the Ionian Sea, the city of Pylos, Voidokilia Bay, the Romanou-Petrochori beaches, Gialova Divari lagoon, the olive tree-lined Peloponnesian Hills, the Sykias chanel, Sphacteria island, and Navarino Bay. When hiking, you’ll be taking the same path as you would to reach Nestor’s Cave, a popular cave in Greek mythology.

Just a mile off Messinia’s coast is the beautiful Proti Island, which is said to resemble a crocodile in shape, and is a haven for history buffs. On land, you’ll find archeological sites and ruins from ancient temples and citadels. Additionally, Proti Island is great for diving due to its clear visibility, 15 dive sits and mix of reef, cave, wall, wreck, canyon, and drift diving. As you swim through turquoise Mediterranean waters, keep your eyes peeled for blue-spotted rays, painted combers, damselfish, sea turtles, and myriad colorful corals and sponges. One company that can take you diving off Proti Island is Navarino Sea by Aqua Divers Club, a Padi Five-Star IDC Resort.

In the past decade Athenian restaurant culture has upped its game. Along with the wonderful traditional family-owned tavernas serving local fare, Michelin-starred venues have been reinterpreting Greek favorites with creativity and aplomb to increasingly discerning crowds. Even Greek coffee (with grounds on the bottom of the cup) has branched out. Remember, dinner hour here is often 9-ish; and most of the year the action takes place outdoors under balmy skies.

Often described as a Greek paradise, the Polilimnio Waterfalls in Polilimnio Gorge offer something different from Messenia’s usual beaches. Visitors are immersed in a scene of lush greenery, gushing cascades, and green lakes filled with fresh-water crabs perfect for a relaxing dip. And if you’re adventurous, cliff diving is also an option at the highest and deepest of the pools. The hike to the Polilimnio Waterfalls takes about an hour and a half, with the trailhead beginning in Haravgi Village. Follow the paved road until it turns into dirt and you’ll eventually come to a car park at the start of the trail. Make sure to wear sturdy shoes, as the ground can be uneven or slippery—especially after it rains—in some sections. For a guided experience, Navarino Outdoors offers an Ancient Messene & Polilimnio Falls Excursion where you’ll explore the area’s historical stadium and theater; eat traditional Greek food; and visit the beautiful Polilimnio Waterfalls.

In Greek mythology, Heracles slew all the sons of the King of Pylos except Nestor, who became king of Pylos himself. Nestor appears as a sage elder in both the Iliad and the Odyssey, expounding on how things were really tough back in his day. If you visit Voidokilia Beach, about 12 kilometers (7.5 miles) from Pylos, you can take a 15-minute walk to see Nestor’s Cave. First, enjoy your time on the beach, which is renowned for its natural beauty. Then climb over the dunes at the beach’s southwest end and follow the hillside path to the cave, which sits just below the ruins of the Paleo Kastro, the old Pylos castle. As legend has it, this cave is where Hermes hid the 50 cattle he stole from Apollo. The trip is worth it for the views alone: The higher you go, the more you’ll see, as the panorama takes in Voidokilia Bay, the Gialova lagoon, the Bay of Navarino, the Peloponnesian hills and the city of Pylos.

Amanzoe was one of the first ultra-luxury resorts by a global brand in Greece when it opened back in 2012 in pretty Porto Heli, on the east coast of the Peloponnese. Since then, it has become a much-loved retreat with monumental architecture, all soaring columns and vast expanses of marble that call to mind Greece’s ancient heritage sites.


The resort’s beach club has four pools, cabanas, a Japanese restaurant, and a seaside spa, and it’s from here that water sports and island-hopping cruises set sail. Lavish guest rooms are divided into either pavilion accommodations or larger villas, all with private pools. The most lavish of all is the Ed Tuttle- and Marios Angelopoulos-designed Villa 20, which doubled as Miles Bron’s island home in British murder mystery Glass Onion; it includes 9 bedrooms, 11 pools, a private spa, 2 barbecue areas, and its own Greek taverna.

Athens is an incredible city to visit but can feel busy and overwhelming, especially during peak tourist season. Escape the hustle and bustle with a visit to the resort town of Vouliagmeni on the Attica coast. I took this photo from a café right on the beach. We spent an entire afternoon drinking coffee, eating fresh seafood, and watching surfers in the sea.

If you research “pretty seaside towns in Greece”, Nafplio often pops up on the search. Located in the eastern Peloponnese, Nafplio boasts narrow, bougainvillea-covered streets, rich-hued neoclassical mansions, wrought-iron balconies and cobblestone and marble streets. It is a popular weekend resort for Athenians due to its waterfront cafes and restaurants, fresh seafood, and pretty boutiques. It is also the perfect base to explore all nearby ancient ruins such as Mycenae, Epidaurus, and Sparta. Sip a cold drink in Syntagma Square, the town center; climb 999 rock steps up the Palamidi Castle for the expansive view; swim in the clear blue waters of the local beaches; and take a sunset stroll along the marina waterfront before dinner.

Located at the foot of Mount Parnassus, Delphi was the Pan-Hellenic site of the most famous oracle of ancient Greece. It was the center of the world during its time. Delphi lies in a lush, hidden valley surrounded by craggy mountains—a pastoral paradise that was home to the Temple of Apollo, the Pythian Games (precursor to today’s Olympics), the ancient theater at Delphi, and more. It is easy to see why this location was chosen as a sacred place for the gods. The town of Delphi itself is small and convenient with plenty of hotels and restaurants on the main street, but a bit touristy. For a more tranquil overnight base, try Arachova (population: 800), a few miles down the main road. Its beautiful terra-cotta topped houses cling to the side of the mountains and make it a pleasant summer and winter stopover.