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Immerse yourself in clothes, shoes, bags, costumes, and accessories of bygone eras at By Retro in Suriye Passage, off Istiklal Street. This expansive basement shop is a wondrous labyrinth of vintage and retro treasures that feels more like a big kid’s dress-up box than a thrift shop. Take a trip back in time here—it will surely captivate vintage and retro fashion lovers for hours.

When the sun finally dips behind the minaret skyline and the moon starts to rise, Sultanahmet Park—between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia—brightens up with a colourful lighting display. In summer enjoy the show by savoring a creamy Turkish ice cream (dondurma) by the illuminated fountain and people watch Istanbul‘s international guests from one of the park benches.

There are two ways to walk up to the Galata Tower from Karakoy Tram Station: One is to follow the pedestrian traffic and ascend an uninviting steep staircase close to the tram way; the other is to take the more picturesque Kamondo (Camondo) steps on Bankalar Caddesi. Neo-Baroque and early Art Nouveau styles were fused here in the 1870s to create this curvaceous thoroughfare up one of Istanbul’s steepest hills. Abraham Salomon Camondo, of the wealthy Sephardic Jewish Camondo family, funded the construction. He inherited the banking and business success of his forefathers and went on to become the prime banker for the Ottoman Empire in the district of Galata where the stairs are located.

“Kumpir” is a baked stuffed potato served throughout the city. But the local “thing to do” is venture to Ortakoy near the first Bosporus Bridge to make your own and consume it by the water’s edge. There’s a number of kumpir stalls near the famous Ortaköy Mosque (shown in the picture above), so you can pick and choose which one has the most appetizing and freshest ingredients for you. There’s no hard and fast rules about what ingredients and sauces can and can’t be added—just go for it and pile them on high! By the end of the construction stage there’s normally enough food for two people to share.

After a morning of wandering Istanbul‘s winding streets, it is a treat to find a delicious eatery like Datli Maya, ready to welcome you with brick-oven baked bites in the form of lahmacun (similar to a thin-crust pizza) and other delicious menu items, and a cup of sweet tea. Dine in on the cozy second floor, then get a pastry or cake to go on your way out for later. It’s easy to find in the streets of the trendy Cihangir district, with its bright turquoise shopfront and location across from a public gazebo. Lovely space, tasty food, nice people, great find.

According to Islamic tradition, only God can create images of holy beings, including angels and prophets. Therefore, when the Ottomans converted Chora Church into a mosque in the 16th century, they covered the 14th-century Byzantine mosaics and frescoes depicting the life of Christ and Mother Mary. Hidden behind wooden shutters were some of the finest mosaics in the world, which were restored following World War II and can now be viewed in all their glory.

A cultural hub for Turkish and international art, Istanbul Modern opened in 2004 as a permanent home for the contemporary Istanbul Biennial. The 8,000-square-foot warehouse sits along the Bosphorus next to the Golden Horn, a historically important port for thousands of years. The water views rival the exhibitions for your attention and appreciation, and the museum has an excellent restaurant and terrace to take advantage of the location. Back inside, the permanent collection shows contemporary and modern artists from Turkey, with rotating exhibitions of photography, design, and new media. The downstairs cinema has several screenings a week of films that complement exhibitions or feature distinctive work, often accompanied by panel discussions. The gift shop is one of the best places to buy unusual and beautiful souvenirs such as upcycled jewelry and kids’ coloring books of museum art.

This good-looking cocktail bar serves up drinks with homemade syrups and herbal infusions (lavender, bergamot) to an equally stylish crowd. DJs spin on weekends, and heat lamps keep the outdoor fun going well past summer.

Take a break from shopping along Istiklal Street at Hala, which specializes in authentic home-cooked Anatolian cuisine. You know you’ve found it when you see women with white headscarfs kneading dough in the front window. They’re preparing and cooking Turkish savory pancakes called gözleme. Hala is a great place to try gözleme along with other traditional staples like Ali Nazik kebabs and manti (meat dumplings served with yogurt and oil, caramelized with tomato paste, and seasoned with mint and red pepper). Wash it all down with a glass of Ayran, a salty yogurt drink adored by many Turks.

Mention ‘Greek Islands’ and one instinctively thinks of Santorini or Crete. But there are literally thousands of other islands scattered between Greece, Turkey and North Africa. The smaller ones like Poros (above) are just as charming. I don’t know what it is but I just love these scenes of blue skies, blue sea and white buildings with terracotta roofs. Though it may look crowded, I still get a sense of peacefulness and serenity. Life here moves just that little bit slower :)

Opened in 2017 as the first Fairmont property in Turkey, this 209-room hotel is inside a 41-story luxury high-rise in the Mecidiyeköy business district, close to high-end shopping and dining. Gaze past the hotel’s landscaped gardens to the city and all the way to the Bosphorus from your private balcony—every room and suite has one, along with a 48-inch smart TV, pillow-top mattress, rain shower, Le Labo Rose products, and your choice of tub or traditional Turkish bath (complete with heated pedestal). More Turkish flair—and flavors—are on offer at Aila restaurant and Demlique café, while Stations serves dishes from around the world and the Marble Bar pairs small bites with an international selection of wine. While these Turkish touches can be found throughout the property—most notably at the expansive Willow Stream Spa, with its selection of herbal products and authentic hammam treatments—the hotel has a decidedly contemporary vibe and style, and feels part of today’s buzzing Istanbul. Case in point: the Ukiyo seasonal outdoor infinity pool, envisioned with Instagrammable whimsy by Dutch designer Marcel Wanders.

One of the world’s most iconic hotels, the Pera Palace first swung open its doors in 1892 and has been a meeting point for travelers in the city for more than 100 years. Ernest Hemingway and Agatha Christie clicked at their typewriters in the guest rooms, Greta Garbo once wafted through the sumptuous lounge, and Alfred Hitchcock drew inspiration for his films while staying here.

The neo-Baroque interior was created by legendary French-Ottoman architect Alexander Vallaury, and luscious jewel-toned Turkish carpets and grand chandeliers immerse guests in the glamour of a bygone age as soon as they step through the front door. The original antique elevator still trundles guests to their rooms, where Old World furniture, classically inspired burgundy textiles, and decadent roll-top baths provide oodles of 19th-century elegance.

The Pera Palace is a timeless grande dame of the golden age of travel and is as much a part of the fabric of Istanbul’s history as the city’s monuments.

Istanbul’s Ottoman heritage and contemporary urban pulse collide at this city retreat. The hotel sits within Akaretler’s historic row houses where high-ranking officials of Sultan Abdulaziz’s reign once lived. Designed by Mahmut Anlar, the interior is stamped with vibrant jewel-toned hues and bold geometric shapes that create an ultra-modern vibe down through the regal 1875 foundations.

Rooms are doused in hot-pink highlights and open out to private terraces or gardens, with suite rooms offering beach-style cabanas for a slice of inner-city resort living. Munchie boxes, Bose radios, and king-size beds with 350-thread-count linens make rooms extra welcoming.

The W Hotel’s whatever-whenever service philosophy takes a highly customized approach. Staff can arrange tailor-made itineraries that help guests discover hidden sights and the newest restaurants and nightlife. The hotel’s iPhone app allows guests to scope out the city scene from the comfort of their room and order in-room dining at a touch of a button.

The cobblestone Akbıyık Caddesi (Road) is one of the few places to head to for a nightcap in Sultanahmet. The street is lined with cafes and bars sporting comfy Turkish divans (cushion lounges) and chilled-out tunes. Enthusiastic staff will welcome travelers wishing to relax with a beer or wine until late, but most venues will start to close around 1am to lessen the noise for nearby hotels. Don’t expect wild nights—it’s a laid-back vibe. If you don’t want to venture far from your hotel in Sultanahmet, then this street offers a good variety of late-night drinking options. Dancing until dawn or listening to live music is best in Beyoğlu and Şişli across the Golden Horn in the entertainment precincts of Taksim, Asmalımescit, Galatasaray, Ortaköy, or Kuruçeşme.

Most couples will want to experience all of Istanbul’s attractions together, and enjoying a hammam (Turkish bath) is no different. The majority of the authentic bathhouses in the city have separate male and female bathing areas, making it impossible for couples to bathe together. The hammam in the Süleymaniye Mosque complex high above Eminönü, however, specializes in providing hammam services for couples. The hammam provides a private changing room and a more intimate and personalized hammam experience for the two of you. This includes a sauna, scrub, and massage with masses of soapy bubbles. In total the treatments last 60 to 90 minutes. If you’re lucky, you may have the hammam to yourself, but do expect to share the hammam space with others. Therefore, ladies will want to pack a bikini or use the disposable bra and shorts provided. Men can also wear a swimsuit. Both will be given a peştemal (towel) for additional coverage. The hammam itself was designed by celebrated Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan in 1557. The sauna is more authentic and at a higher temperature than most local hammams, so it can get a little hot and steamy in there. Take some water with you and rehydrate after. Bookings are essential.