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An hour boat ride along Usumacinta River on the Guatemala border can take you to Yaxchilan, Palenque’s less visited cousin in the tropics of Chiapas, Mexico. Twelve-thousand-year old architecture brings many questions to mind. But at this moment, I wondered what life was like for these two gardeners, who spend many days working in the shadows of this ancient civilization. http://www.lonelyplanet.com/mexico/tabasco-and-chiapas/yaxchilan

The Aubrey sits at the edge of Barrio Bellavista, a few steps from Santiago’s bottle-green 1925 funicular (which takes visitors up to Cerro San Cristóbal) and just below the zoo (sometimes guests can hear the animals when they’re lying by the pool). Open since 2010, this 15-bedroom boutique hotel is housed between two 1920s mansions built by the same architect. The larger of the two houses once belonged to famed Chilean railway magnate Domingo Durán. Today, the hotel is owned by a Brit and an Aussie who spent $3 million and several years transforming it into its current state.

The bedrooms are split between the two mansions, and there’s also an outside block housing a few pool suites. A cobbled terrace runs between the restaurant and piano bar. The interiors are inspired by the early 20th-century art deco movement and feature statement art deco furniture, printed fabrics, and elaborate wallpaper.

The beef goes back centuries, and will never be entirely resolved: what are the true origins of pisco, a grape-based, aguardiente distillate that became a national symbol of Chile…and Peru. To end the conflict, the people behind this bar and restaurant invented a new, independent republic dedicated to Pisco that is known as Chipe Libre. Inside a vast Lastarria mansion, this imaginary state unites lands in southern Peru and northern Chile, in obeisance to a sole monarch, pisco. The bar features a good 100 labels and cocktails like “Pisco’s in the Air,” made with lime juice, raspberry, papaya and basil; plus a full range of what are among Santiago’s best traditional sours. Standout food include the crunchy-seafood saltado (marinated and grilled beef strips), with mango, served on a sizzling grill; the joint’s star sandwich, El Presidente, is a solid slice of roast beef, fried egg, and shoestring potatoes. To avoid any sovereignty disputes, Chipe Libre flies its red-and-black, center-starred flag as the republic’s national colors.

Want to try hearty, rustic specialties that are considered true Chilean cooking? Look no further. This sprawling place on the outskirts of the city, in the foothills of the Andes, is a winner. Agustina Gómez de Olivares (aka Doña Tina), now 72, started decades ago selling “pan amasado,” homemade dimpled bread along the road. Years later, the whole family is involved. She’s stickler for seasonality so visit her during the summer months when corn is in season to try the heavenly national dish “pastel de choclo” or “humitas,” fresh corn tamales with basil. However, faithful capitalinos make the schlep east for her baked beef empanadas with juicy stuffing. Camino Los Refugios del Arrayán 15125, Lo Barenechea Phone: 56 (2) 2321 6546

Just a block away from the Palacio de la Moneda, the Chilean Government Palace, this culinary oasis offers tasty treats and killer coffee in a downtown setting. Known for its breakfasts, burgers, tea time, and heady java, you can rub elbows with local politicians fueling during the work week. Blue Jar is also one of the few coffee spots to sell the coveted “Keep Cups,” to keep your latte warm for the road. Almirante L. Gotuzzo 102 at Moneda Phone: 56 (2) 2696-1890

The Cayo District is home to many of Belize’s ancient Maya sites, including one of the largest, Xunantunich. Located atop a ridge near the Mopan River and the Guatemala border, Xunantunich’s “El Castillo,” the main pyramid, is certainly the most impressive. Visitors who brave the steep steps to the top are rewarded with unsurpassed views into Guatemala and neighboring areas of Belize. While the climb up can be pretty steep and rough, there are other routes to get down along the backside that make the descent a little easier. It took me multiple visits to finally gather the courage to climb to the top, but I’m grateful I did, as the views were absolutely worth it! Organized tours to Xunantunich often combine with other activities like zip-lining, cave tubing, or even trips to the Belize Zoo. Travelers who wish to explore all of Xunantunich’s six plazas, which contain more than 26 temples and palaces, should plan to book a private tour or visit on their own.

There’s a powerful love for the 80s in Chile and in no other club does this shine through like at Blondie. The nightclub is tucked away in a retail shopping center in a gritty area of La Alameda. You’ll hear anything 80s from New Wave to techno, goth rock, and theme nights like Pet Shop Boys, Bowie, Madonna, even 90s nights. There are also live concerts from local rock bands like Lucybell. A favorite place to party with the gay community and university students. Alameda 2879 (Metro ULA)

Chilean “completos” are hot dogs piled high with the works--usually mashed avocado, chopped tomato, optional sauerkraut, and an obscene amount of mayo (maybe 1/3 cup). Actually, eating them is a feat of gravity without the toppings winding up on your shirt, or the ground. Chileans are passionate about their completos and no place draws them in like Dominó, an old-school soda fountain with locales peppering the downtown. Locals crowd around the counter to scarf down these dogs with Coca-Cola or freshly made juice. Various locales throughout downtown (see website)

With a nod to the neighborhood’s tradition of carpentry, this furniture store sells chairs, tables, bowls, and wall hooks made of Chilean lenga wood, crafted with clean, modern lines and smooth finishes. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

Chilean society is quite conservative by many standards with the younger generations finally starting to cut loose. Get more playful. Be expressive. US expat Jayne Morgan saw the opportunity to fill the niche for erotic toys in the capital, starting as private bachelorette parties. The idea was a runaway success and she’s expanded to now have two stories in Providencia and Barrio Lastarria to satisfy the demand. Sex toys, games, outfits, and erotic books, all imported of high quality and good taste, are all laid in her attractive stories with attentive staff. Monjitas 580, 2nd Floor (in Bar The Clinic Building) Phone: 56 (2) 2632 5988

Once upon a time, Europe (mostly Switzerland, France, Belgium, and the UK) dominated the chocolate market and through aggressive marketing and downright colonialist extraction methods, became erroneously known for being the world’s experts on cacao, yet cacao came from South and Central America and didn’t grow anywhere near Europe. Recent years have seen the best chocolate rightfully return to the source where it originated—Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, and Venezuela, where a boom of quality chocolate has replaced reimported European milk chocolate sold to those cacao producing countries for generations. But Switzerland is back in the game with this excellent new chocolate shop by local food expert Dieter Meier and his patented cold pressed extraction method that brings out the botanicals and nuances of these sourced cacaos in ways other chocolate manufactures cannot. The results are Cuban, Bolivian, and Guatemalan single bean bars ranging from white to 80% dark that are unlike anything else on the market. The tiny shop overlooking the Limmat River opened in December 2017 and is not cheap, but worth every rappen for its exquisite expression of flavors.

Chileans love “completos,” hot dogs with the works. Hogs took this concept and made it gourmet. Think hot dogs made with venison, lamb, pure frank, even rabbit. Then top it with items like caramelized onions, blue cheese, avocado, barbeque sauce, etc. The place is casual and standing room only to eat. Los Leones 40 (almost with Av. Providencia), Providencia (new location opening in Barrio Lastarria pronto!) Phone: 2235-4593

About a two-and-a-half hour drive from Santiago (or 30 minutes by helicopter), Puma Lodge is located in the Andean foothills near the Argentine border. The lodge is part of the Chilean-owned Noi hotel group, which also has properties in Patagonia, Atacama, Santiago, and more. Opened in 2011, Puma Lodge has a ski chalet feel, with wooden interiors and a large fireplace in the middle of the bar and lounge area. The 24 rooms are all the same category, and the design is simple and comfortable with touches such as colorful throws and local artwork.

Many guests choose Puma Lodge for the heli-skiing, but there’s plenty on offer year-round and for the less intrepid traveler. Activities include hiking, horseback riding, or heading out for a picnic lunch by the river. There’s also an on-site spa, yoga studio, and wine cave. Outdoor hot tubs are great after skiing, and a swimming pool is a draw in the summer months.

Come here and you’ll find a solar-powered bookstore, a Guatemalan restaurant, pubs, galleries, cafés, and this brick wall tribute to Gregory Colbert’s “Boy Reading to Elephant.” (The words that come to mind when I pass this street art are “tell me a good story and I’ll never forget.”) Just a few blocks north of downtown, and a few blocks west of the University of Arizona, Tucson’s Fourth Avenue district is a pedestrian eat-work-drink-play neighborhood with a new streetcar/trolley system. Construction is done, shops and restaurants are open, and you’ll find hardly a chain along the eclectic streetscape. From college kids and downtown workers, to artists, professors, and out-of-towners, Fourth Avenue is where the Old Pueblo welcomes techies and yuppies along with the ex-hippies... And, every winter and spring, for decades now, the neighborhood hosts a Street Fair—hundreds of thousands of people come for the arts, crafts, food, and music.

Of course I was in awe of the imposing temples at Tikal, but my favorite area was the Central Acropolis. Walking through the various buildings of this residential complex, it was easy to imagine how it might have been when people lived here. I lingered for a long time, wandering through all the halls and chambers, and finally climbing the stairs to take in the view from above. A magical place...