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An American in Iran: Why You Should Go and What You Need to Know

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent chef John Currence on 24 hours’ notice to a hot, sweet, sticky country where he followed a trail through the cuisine to the people who make it.

From Tel Aviv to Beirut to Gaza, one thing is shared: a common—and undying—love for hummus.

In the Old Souq at Deira and in traditional boutiques in malls you’ll see colorful jalabiyas or women’s kanduras, which are increasingly being bought by foreign women. When out in public or in the company of men who aren’t family, Emirati women wear the ubiquitous black cloak-like abaya and black shaylah wrapped around their head - tightly if devout, more loose if less conservative. The most religious women we’re a Saudi-style niqab that ties around the head and covers all but the eyes. When worn with gloves and socks, so not an inch of skin is revealed, it’s known as hijab. Underneath the abaya and shaylah, young Emirati women wear designer fashions and jeans and t-shirts. However, when they’re at home with family, along with older ladies, more traditional-minded women will wear a jallabiya or women’s kandura. Some of these are very simple, made from floral cotton prints, while others, like those in the photo above, are a lot more elegant, made from silks and linens, and decorated with applique, sequins, gems, tassles, and crocheted and embroidered features. In the days before the discovery of oil, Emirati women didn’t wear abayas and shaylahs. They wore these dresses in public with a gauzy face veil and baggy pantaloons. These days the pantaloons have been replaced with smart matching trousers. Over the years, jalabiyas and kanduras have increasingly become a popular souvenir. If you’re going to get one, make sure to buy some pretty sequined slippers to match!

No matter where you are staying in the UAE, you can’t leave without visiting the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. The mosque, the third-largest in the world, is the final resting place of Sheikh Zayed, the nation’s founder. Even on the hottest summer day, the white marble floors—inlaid with mosaic flowers and vines—remain cool underfoot, and the scale of the space will impress even the most casual observer: The main hall can hold about 7,000 people. Take a tour and learn about the iconography of the intricate tiles and mosaics. Marvel at the huge rug that covers the floor in the main worship space; it’s the largest handmade rug in the world. If you happen to be visiting during Ramadan, you could consider joining one of the community iftar dinners, which sometimes serve as many as a thousand people in an evening.

In our third episode of “Unpacked by AFAR,” tips on how to be a better observer, and how embracing our “outsider” status can help us travel better—and empathize more.