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The Bo-Kaap was one of the few Cape Town neighborhoods to escape apartheid’s bulldozers—the cluster of bright buildings, once known as the Malay Quarter, housed many of the slaves who worked for the 17th-century Dutch colonialists. In this colorful area, you can also see some of the oldest, most beautiful mosques in the country, including the Auwal Mosque on Dorp Street. Upscale shops have been moving in lately, but don’t miss one of the originals, the spice merchant Atlas Trading Company. To go back in time, explore the Bo-Kaap Museum, furnished like the house of a typical 19th-century Muslim family.

The resplendent Raffles Hotel reopened in late 2019 to great fanfare after two years of restoration. Originally built in 1887 as a 10-room hotel, it now features 115 suites with oriental carpets and teak floors to complement four-poster beds and colorful Peranakan-tiled bathrooms. An in-room tablet controls everything from the mood lighting to calling your butler for a glass of bubbly. All have a private veranda to enjoy balmy evenings outside.




The building was declared a national monument in 1987, so the façade has changed little, but the hotel’s food and drink concepts have been revamped with a focus on marquee restaurant collaborations with the likes of Jereme Leung (yi) and Hawaiian-born Jordan Keao (Butcher’s Block). Not forgetting Singapore’s rich food culture, the hotel offers a self-guided Raffles Singapore Hawker Food Trail video hosted by hawker champion and Makansutra founder KF Seetoh. Raffles also offers an exclusive private tour of the Intan, a home museum filled with more than 1,500 objects from Peranakan culture.





The famous Singapore Sling continues to be a draw at the evocative 1920s Malayan-style Long Bar and its peanut shell-covered floor. The iconic drink now has sustainable twist: the hotel plants one native tree in the Kalimantan or Sumatran rain forest for every 25 Singapore Slings ordered.

Dining at the Barn Thai Restaurant, surrounded by nature within the mangrove reserve, is a unique dining experience. Their Thai food is known as some of the most delicious on the island. Live jazz sets the mood for your meal in this beautifully designed space. Sit along the elevated wooden walkway in a bungalow or on the patio over the river. The food tends to be spicy so ask how hot the dish is before you order.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

American entrepreneur Jim Thompson, who began his Thai silk business here in the 1940s, built himself a residence in 1959 by assembling six traditional teak houses brought from other parts of Thailand. Today, Thompson’s former abode is a museum that displays his extensive collection of rare Asian art and antiques. The gift shop sells high-end silk clothing (including darling children’s wear) as well as bags, scarves and home goods such as cushion covers, plus postcards and books.

It’s believed that this village located six kilometers (four miles) outside Malacca was founded by the parents of the 15th-century Malaysian warrior Hang Tuah. According to a local legend, when they were sitting by the river, they spotted a mermaid (duyong) and thus the village got its name. Hang Tuah would go on to become a legendary admiral of the Malacca sultanate, which was conquered by the Portuguese in 1511. A visit to Kampung Duyong today offers a chance to see its historic mosque, traditional houses and a well said to have been dug by Hang Tuah with water that is believed to have healing properties. The homes of Hang Tuah along with those of four of his fellow warriors are open to the public.

My ideal habitat is a warm day on a tropical beach. I’m also a sucker for beauty in all its most unusual forms (part of the reason I’m on the Board of Burning Man). So, when I heard about the Harbin International Ice & Snow Festival in northeast China (Manchuria meets Siberia: that just sounds frozen!), my initial reaction was, “How far would I travel and how cold would I get all in the name of experiencing an aesthetic phenomenon?” So, after 90 degree humidity in Malaysia, two planes delivered me to this cursed, desolate part of China (20 degrees below zero). Amidst the Siberian wind gusts and short days of daylight, Harbin is a revelation, a place where the light of collective aesthetic joy is experienced by 800,000 visitors annually for the Ice & Snow Festival (90% from China as this is one of the country’s top winter destinations). Oddly, I kept having Burning Man flashbacks...night being preferred over day due to the psychedelic visuals enhanced by the dark, the fact that thousands of artists (15k in Harbin) labor 15 days around the clock to create something out of nothing only to know that these beautiful structures will either melt (Harbin) or burn (Burning Man), and, finally, the sense that no picture or video can capture the sensory overload of being surrounded by spectacle. Think: “You had to be there.” Remember the spectacle of the 2008 Beijing Olympics Opening Ceremony? I heartily recommend this trek that takes place late December through February.

The Ya Kun experience is a must for foodies looking for an authentic Singaporean breakfast. Ya Kun Kaya Toast started as a humble coffee shop in Singapore’s business district, but it’s since morphed into a café chain with an impressive number of outlets in Singapore and other Asian countries. Ya Kun’s signature dish is its kaya toast, which consists of kaya (a coconut-based jam) spread on a thin slice of toast and served with soft-boiled eggs and freshly brewed coffee (the beans are wok-fried in butter and sugar, strained through cloth, and served with some condensed milk). If coffee isn’t your cup of tea (sorry, couldn’t resist), Ya Kun also serves teh tarik, a Malaysian sweetened-tea-and-milk beverage popular among locals.

Top Chef finalist Tiffani Faison showed off her versatility in opening Tiger Mama, her second restaurant, as an un-Americanized Asian-fusion concept—wildly different than Sweet Cheeks Q, her Boston barbecue joint. What’s similar is Tiger Mama’s Fenway location and its creative take on traditional preparations, in this case Thai, Malaysian, and Vietnamese dishes grouped under general headings (like Cold & Fresh, Crispy & Spicy, Rich & Earthy, and Noodles & Rice) to aid in navigating the maybe-unfamiliar names of dishes. The short-rib crudo is the go-to starter; “pig rice” is a typically generous portion of rice mixed with bacon, tasso ham, and Isaan sausage, sprinkled with pork floss; and the tiki drinks will flow as the sharing plates are passed.

Atop St. Paul’s Hill sit the ruins of St. Paul’s Church, built by the Portuguese and consecrated in 1521. Malaysia’s oldest church was first Roman Catholic, then Dutch Reformed and ultimately used by the British to store gunpowder. Missionary St. Francis Xavier was briefly interred here (after three weeks his remains were sent to Goa, in India, where they can be found to this day); an open grave marks the spot where he was buried. Adjacent to the church is the Porta de Santiago, all that’s left of the Portuguese fortress A Famosa; built in the early 16th century after the Portuguese took control of Malacca, the fortress was used by both the Dutch and the British.

At 185 acres, the Montréal Botanical Garden is less than a third the size of Mount Royal Park, but it manages to fit a remarkable collection of some 22,000 plant species and cultivars into that space, organized into 20 thematic gardens and including 10 exhibition greenhouses (ideal if you are looking for some tropical warmth in the depth of a Montréal winter). Everyone will have his or her own favorites when it comes to the different spaces—Alpine, Chinese, Japanese—but the First Nations garden stands out. Wandering alongside its pond and following its forested trails, you’ll feel like you are far from the city and instead in the northern reaches of the province of Québec—at least until you catch sight of the swoop of the nearby Olympic Tower, with its distinct incline. You can continue the naturalist itinerary at the Biodome, also nearby, where five different ecosystems of North America are re-created with flora and fauna—auks, lynx, penguins, and more.

For a unique Malaysian dining experience, head to Pia’s the Padi, where panoramic views of vibrant green rice fields and distant mountains are as sumptuous as the food. Inside the restaurant, huge windows open onto the fields, creating a lovely terrace. Indulge in samosas, chicken butter masala, beef rendang (a favorite), and other traditional dishes. Order à la carte or from a set menu; you can even ask for the chef to prepare something special just for you. When it’s time for dessert, a popular choice is the mango kulfi, a creamy frozen treat. To recreate the dishes at home, sign up for the daily cooking class that begins at 2 p.m. Call ahead for restaurant and class reservations.

The Ritz-Carlton’s Cantonese restaurant serves some of the best dim sum in Kuala Lumpur. You’d be remiss not to order cha siu bao, pillowy steamed roast-pork buns that melt in your mouth, and juicy ha gow, shrimp dumplings in translucent wrappers. Although Li Yen is most often lauded for its dim sum, the Peking duck, crispy on the outside and succulent within, is another delectable signature dish.

Malacca was under Dutch rule from 1641 to 1795 and then again from 1818 to 1825, and the buildings along Dutch Square reflect this history, all painted in terra cotta—the square is also often called Red Square, because of the color of the buildings that sit on it. Just behind the square’s clock tower, the Stadthuys was built in 1650 as Malacca’s city hall; it continued to serve this purpose even after the British took control of Malacca. It’s believed to be the oldest Dutch building in Southeast Asia. The large but simple building has white wooden shutters and a tiled roof. Today, the Stadthuys houses several museums, including the History and Ethnography Museum.

This striking white structure, built in 1910, takes top prize for uniqueness among Southeast Asia’s railway stations. Until the Petronas Towers were completed, this was Kuala Lumpur’s most iconic building. The station’s design is a singular mix of Moorish Revival, Indo-Gothic, and Mughal styles, and although the interior has undergone some updating, the exterior looks just as it did when it first opened more than a century ago. While this is commonly called the Old Railway Station, a number of commuter trains still use it. (A newer one designed to accommodate modern trains is next door, with its own entrance.) Directly across from the Old Railway Station is the equally impressive Malayan Railway Administration Building, built in 1917.