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Zurich’s Old Town has one foot firmly in the past and the other very much at the forefront of Swiss culture. Wandering through the pedestrian-only cobbled streets of the Altstadt (which you can do for hours!), you’ll find Switzerland‘s highest concentration of clubs, as well as theatres, comedy troupes, street performers and young fashion designers selling their wares in small, elegant shops on medieval streets. Landmarks include the Grossmünster’s double towers, built by Charlemagne, and the Peterskirche, which has the distinction of being the church with Europe’s largest clockface. Don’t miss Limmatquai, along the Limmat River, one of Zurich‘s most thronged shopping sites where restaurants and shops are housed in Baroque gilded houses from the 1700s, something like the canalside houses of Amsterdam. It’s a great place to actually walk into the past and have the vibrant present all around you! Check out the Artistry and Craftsmanship itinerary to Switzerland, created by Bob Preston of Swiss Panache, on AFAR Journeys.

The Limmat River and Lake Zurich might be the showstoppers, but it would be a pity to overlook the charming Schanzengraben Canal. Built as a city fortification system in the 17th century, the canal is now lined with wooden boardwalks and sandstone slabs, and runs from the Gessnerbrücke past the Mannerbadi to the mouth of the lake at Bürkliplatz. It’s at its prettiest near the Baur au Lac hotel, but the action—water polo!—happens near the Selnaubrücke.

This historic wooden badi situated along the pretty tree-lined Utoquai near the Zurich Opera House has welcomed lakeside idlers since 1890, and parts of the original swimming “palace” still remain intact. There are now mixed and separate pools and sunbathing areas (with the occasional nude bather), plus floating decks and diving platforms. On any given summer day, there’s a lot of lake traffic nearby—crisscrossing sailboats and paddleboats—which is great if you want to feel part of the action, though a slight nuisance if it’s tranquil waters you’re seeking.

The Schiffbau, a renovated shipbuilding factory, is home to a popular theater, jazz club, bar and this glamorous restaurant, situated in a stunning glass cube. One of its signatures is a fillet of horse loaded with garlic, but for the less adventurous, the French- and Italian-leaning menu also includes classics like braised beef in red wine sauce.

In the Middle Ages, it was gently sloping Rennweg that served as the city’s main shopping street and its widest. (Bahnhofstrasse? Back then the now tony street—one of the world’s most exclusive—was a moat known not charmingly as Fröschengraben “Ditch of The Frogs.”) These days, Rennweg is still lined with small boutiques, but the pedestrianized cobblestone-lined street serves less as a shopping draw than one for an idyllic stroll among centuries old pastel-colored buildings. Make sure to stop by Honold’s Tea Room for a few Lotti’s Best, divine squares of crunchy nougat enrobed in chocolate. Photo © Bruno Macor/FB/Zürich Tourismus.

This Altstadt institution known for its specialty coffee beans, teas and spices also sells a small, but excellent selection of specialty Swiss chocolate bars, including Akesson’s and Idillio Origins, and delicious chocolate oddities like dark-chocolate covered Criollo beans and ginger sticks.

The hippest hotel in the city not only has a Rauschenberg (it was commissioned for the penthouse suite) and Corbusier armchairs strewn every which way, it also has an excellent jazz program in its Widder Bar. Among the greats who’ve already played here: Brad Mehldau, Diana Krall and Hank Jones.

This modish spot steps from Bellevue is a hit for its enticing cakes and excellent coffee, but its savory menu shouldn’t be missed; there are simple, superb salads and great flammekuchen. Consider yourself warned though: service can be frustratingly slow.

Baur au Lac, the grande dame of Bahnhofstrasse hotels open since 1844, is home to the city’s most beautiful restaurant, with a stunning glass gazebo with Lalique chandeliers overlooking the hotel’s private park. Chef Laurent Eperon’s dishes are mostly contemporary takes rooted in French technique, though the menu has a special “Veau Suisse” section that includes a meltingly tender glazed veal knuckle that’s been cooked overnight.

Sure, the menu comes in a dozen languages, but Zeughauskeller is no mere tourist trap. Occupying a 15th century building on Paradeplatz, the setting—arched windows, wooden ceiling beams and stone columns—is transportive, while traditional dishes include the Bürgermeister Schwert (veal steaks pounded thin and wrapped around a long sword blade and grilled). The house beer is an exclusive from the local TurbinenBräu brewery.

Tibits shows that this bratwurst-and-raclette loving city can do delicious seasonal vegetarian and vegan dishes well, and imaginatively, too. The enticing buffet includes creations like a melon-accented Thai tofu salad and tomato spelt risotto, served in a colorful, floral wallpaper-accented fast-casual setting.

Hugo Ball read the Dada Manifesto at this Altstadt cabaret in 1916, and an art movement was born. After extensive repairs, Dada’s birthplace reopened in 2004 with a bar along with exhibitions, readings, and a small lending library that pays homage to its historic past.

The owners of this bi-level bar in the Prime Tower took great pains to create its visually stunning speakeasy-style décor: the impressive 80-year-old wooden bar and six tons of subway tiles were shipped from New York City. On a recent evening, patrons sipped whiskeys from Japan and ginger wines from Scotland to a soundtrack that ranged from Bob Dylan’s “Mississippi” to Fink’s “Blueberry Pancakes.”

By day, this café and bookshop is a lovely place to enjoy an espresso prepared with beans purchased and roasted by H. Schwarzenbach, the Altstadt coffee institution. Come evening, it transforms into a popular bar among the creative types in the neighborhood. The best place to enjoy a beer or two from the nearby TurbinenBräu brewery is under the glass-roofed annex—full of lush plants, tables and chairs in faded primary colors, and a view of the Limmat River.

This five-year pop-up, housed in black-painted metal and glass containers, opened in 2012 with seven boutiques. Among the best is Edition Populaire, which stocks limited edition collections of household and drink items, like a gin and tonic set of Gents tonic made with gentian root from the Swiss Appenzell region and gin from the small Black Forest distillery Monkey 47. Photo © Fabian Fretz/Frau Gerolds Garten.