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The Spirit of Istanbul

Swim the Caribbean Sea. Hike through Tayrona National Park. Trek to Ciudad Perdida, the Lost City. Take in Colombian coffee culture in the Coffee Triangle. Or just wander the streets of one of Colombia’s cities to take in enough art and culture to keep you talking about this stellar South American country for the rest of your life.

Tucson, Arizona may sometimes get overlooked as visitors fly into and out of Phoenix, but Arizona’s second city is anything but second-rate. Savor a chile pepper–infused breakfast, then walk it off as you contemplate Tucson’s archaeology, botany, and multicultural shopping. Catch a legendary sunset from Tucson’s desert edges, then end the day with a farm-to-table dinner to get a real taste of this part of Arizona.

Hail to New Mexican food—a melting pot of Spanish, Mediterranean, Mexican, Pueblo Native American, and cowboy chuckwagon. The best New Mexican cuisine is earthy and home-style and includes dishes such as tamales, chiles relleños, green chili cheeseburgers, and enchiladas. The official New Mexican state question is “Red or green?” Your answer depends on the kind of chili sauce you want smothered on your dish. Unsurprisingly, the state hosts some of the best New Mexican food you’ll find anywhere.

At the edge of the Baja Peninsula, One&Only Palmilla was originally built in 1956 as a 15-room hideaway for Don Abelardo Rodriguez, son of the then-president of Mexico. Today, it’s one of the region’s most luxurious resorts, composed of 174 oceanfront rooms and suites and two villas decorated in neutral hues and splashes of red; many have infinity pools and patios that face the Sea of Cortez.


One&Only Palmilla has one of the area’s few swimmable beaches, plus three private rocky coves complete with floating beds, lounge chairs, and dedicated butlers. Activities include snorkeling, surfing, parasailing, and golfing the award-winning 27-hole course designed by Jack Nicklaus. The massive spa’s wellness garden features a juice bar and 13 treatment villas; several have private plunge pools, rain showers, and swinging daybeds.



One&Only Palmilla is a member of EarthCheck, a scientific benchmarking certification program, for its sustainability efforts, which include a state-of-the-art water purification system that produces and bottles filtered water on site. The resort works with the Red Committee for the Protection of the Sea Turtle by helping with daily patrols of nearby nests, an activity guests can join.

Artesanías de Chile is a joint effort between the Chilean government and over 2,000 artisans from north to south to support their craft with three stores in Santiago now: Bellavista, Moneda Government Palace, and SCL Airport. The pieces are unique and made with first class quality ranging from hand-thrown clay pots (greda), ornaments made with “crin de caballo” (horse tail), Mapuche earrings and weavings, alpaca shawls, and wooden bowls among others. Every sale directly supports the artisans along with government initiatives to train them in their craft. Bellavista 357, Bellavista Phone: 56 (2) 2235 2014

If there were ever a hotel with history, it’s the Singular Patagonia. Opened as a hotel in November 2011, the original building once served as a post-Victorian cold-storage factory built by the British in 1915 for the purpose of processing sheep’s wool and meat to be shipped back to England. Overlooking the waters of Last Hope Sound, the long, red-brick building is located just outside the town of Puerto Natales. After operating for almost 70 years as a factory, it was declared a national historic landmark before being transformed into a luxury hotel.

History is by no means forgotten. The hallways are still stocked with brightly colored machinery—from steam condensers to boilers and forges—all stamped with the name of the British city in which they were built: Derby, Birmingham, London, or Glasgow. Designed by Chilean interior designer Enrique Concha and local architect Pedro Kovacic, the 57 bedrooms stretch along a new wing that was added to the original buildings, and these rooms are furnished with Victorian-inspired furniture.

With a nod to the neighborhood’s tradition of carpentry, this furniture store sells chairs, tables, bowls, and wall hooks made of Chilean lenga wood, crafted with clean, modern lines and smooth finishes. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

Chilean “completos” are hot dogs piled high with the works--usually mashed avocado, chopped tomato, optional sauerkraut, and an obscene amount of mayo (maybe 1/3 cup). Actually, eating them is a feat of gravity without the toppings winding up on your shirt, or the ground. Chileans are passionate about their completos and no place draws them in like Dominó, an old-school soda fountain with locales peppering the downtown. Locals crowd around the counter to scarf down these dogs with Coca-Cola or freshly made juice. Various locales throughout downtown (see website)

As the name suggests, you can shout your order from the sidewalk and by the time you get to the counter, they’ve already served up your empanadas. Try the time-tested caldo mayo, a house-specialty beef broth that’s a perfect hangover remedy, especially with spicy salsa de ají, or hot pepper salsa, on top. Members of the Chilean judiciary are often seen here having a tintito, a dainty glass of red wine, before beginning the day’s proceedings. El Rapido opened in the thirties and has been operating ever since—don’t miss this quaint and tasty bit of history.

Every day 2,000 empanadas are freshly made at this historic food landmark on the corner of Bandera and Huérfanos in El Centro. Santiaguinos pop in for a gooey fried cheese empanada slathered in hot chili sauce, piping hot. Stand in at the counter and order a “Pap” soda, flavored with Chilean papaya like the locals. Bandera 347, almost corner Huérfanos Phone: 56(2) 2672 2375

Just a block away from the Palacio de la Moneda, the Chilean Government Palace, this culinary oasis offers tasty treats and killer coffee in a downtown setting. Known for its breakfasts, burgers, tea time, and heady java, you can rub elbows with local politicians fueling during the work week. Blue Jar is also one of the few coffee spots to sell the coveted “Keep Cups,” to keep your latte warm for the road. Almirante L. Gotuzzo 102 at Moneda Phone: 56 (2) 2696-1890

If you have time, you could travel nearly two hours south of the capital into wine country to dine at the outstanding Miguel Torres restaurant near Curicó, part of this Spanish winery’s headquarters--or you could dine at their outpost in the upscale area known as El Golf. The focus is on blending seasonal Chilean ingredients to showcase their ample portfolio of wines with small plates and tasting glasses rather a full meal. For any meal, be sure to kick off with their pink sparkler, Santa Digna Estelado made from the traditional “país” grape. The winery supports many small, organic producers to make their wines and this is just one example. Salud! Isidora Goyenechea 2874, Las Condes Phone: 56 (2) 2245 7338 Photo: Miguel Torres Chile

Chileans love “completos,” hot dogs with the works. Hogs took this concept and made it gourmet. Think hot dogs made with venison, lamb, pure frank, even rabbit. Then top it with items like caramelized onions, blue cheese, avocado, barbeque sauce, etc. The place is casual and standing room only to eat. Los Leones 40 (almost with Av. Providencia), Providencia (new location opening in Barrio Lastarria pronto!) Phone: 2235-4593

I don’t know whether it was the early morning fog, the rolling hills surrounding the vineyard, or the grapes themselves that made me do a double-take: Was I really in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, or was I back in California’s Sonoma Valley? With its intoxicating location and old world charm, Casa Silva (the colonial-style inn that sits in the midst of the family vineyard) has the best of both. It’s a place to relax, tour the surrounding vineyards, and – naturally -- drink their own varietals (especially the Sauvignon Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and Petit Verdot). With only seven rooms, Casa Silva sits somewhere between a B&B and a guest house, with shabby chic rooms that are a throwback to Chile’s colonial era. We snagged room no. 4, with high ceilings and a comfy four-poster bed as well as an oversized bathroom. While the inn itself is special, the restaurant is worth a visit on its own. It has a clubhouse feel, overlooking the family polo field, but with unique and breathtaking views of the Andes. Hotel guests can take a leisurely 20-minute walk through the vineyard to the restaurant, which features Chilean specialties like conger eel, queso fresco, and tuna ceviche in one of the most dramatic settings I’ve ever enjoyed. (And don’t pass up the mote con huesillos, aka “wheat berry peach dessert.”) Finally, not to be missed: the tour of Vina Casa Silva, which houses one of Chile’s most up-to-date wine facilities and the family’s collection of perfectly restored antique cars.