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Just east of the palace is the city’s vibrant fruit and vegetable market where farmers from the hinterland come to sell fresh produce every day from sunrise to lunchtime. This is where locals stock up on supplies for the family table, ranging from seasonal fruits and vegetables to local prosciutto, nuts and jams. Encircling the market are souvenir and clothing stalls.

A local’s suggestion landed me on Maazgoon’s terrace, a vibrant spot right next door to the Diocletian Palace in Split.

The crew at the restaurant is passionate about modern takes on Mediterranean dishes; food that is all about the best ingredients and, important in my book, food that hasn’t been overworked, or ‘touched too much’.

Go there hungry. I had some whicked tuna sashimi there, and a traditionally prepared octopus in a skillet. They paired a crisp local white with it...and off to heaven I went. My mouth is watering, just writing about it.

They have a saying at Maazgoon: ‘We believe that the whole universe can fit on a plate’. Well, they sure fit a perfect week in Croatia on mine. And that’s a wrap.

>>>Warm thanks to Alan Mandić from Secret Dalmatia, for organizing a truly memorable, and off the beaten path trip for our curious and insatiable group of travelers, and to the Hotel Cornaro for accommodations in Split.

At the heart of Diocletian’s Palace, this colorful bar—a recent addition to Split’s dining scene—is already a favorite for its globally flavored tapas-style dishes. The menu is small but far-flung, featuring everything from burgers to a number of plates with an Asian twist. The Japanese steamed pork buns are particularly delicious; other bites include pickled oysters, barbecue ribs, shellfish custard, and cheese and charcuterie platters. Guinness is on tap and the cocktails are great. Torito serves breakfast, too, as well as freshly squeezed juices and smoothies all day.

Its name honors an avant-garde woman poet from Dubrovnik’s golden age, Cvijeta Zuzorić. Its menu, by star chef Jeffery Vella, honors one of the Cvijeta’s tenets: No compromising on the things you believe in. And what the staff believes in here is that the dishes must be creative, the ingredients fresh, and the wine list enticing. Start with the octopus mini burgers on olive focaccia, then enjoy a gilthead bream fillet cooked in parchment, and end your meal with peach and mascarpone crumble. Dine on some of Dubrovnik’s tastiest treasures from your seat in a charming stone alleyway, watching the passersby.

Right by the Pile Gate, in a beautifully restored maritime school, Restaurant Nautika feels special even before you taste the food. With mesmerizing views of Kolorina Bay beyond and Lovrijenac Fortress looming overhead, this elegant restaurant has a fresh spark about it. The chef often does the marketing himself, browsing the stalls at the local market for organic and locally grown produce and freshly caught seafood—the only ingredients used at Nautika. The kitchen works magic with the ultra-local stuff, turning out small wonders like lobster medallions and sesame-crusted tuna. The inspired cuisine, especiailly when coupled with the location make the Nautika experience nothing short of spectacular. (If the view isn’t enough, you can occasionally spot celebrities among your fellow diners.)

With the Old Town spread out below, this picture-perfect spot was once a place of worship dedicated to Saint Ursula, the patron saint of young girls. Today Orsula is a scenic outdoor amphitheater and a nice detour if you take a cab from the harbor to the Old Town. Ask the driver to take you via the Gruž bridge so you can get a bird’s-eye view of the cruise ship port and Gruž Bay.

The most important public building in the time of the Ragusan Republic, the Rector’s Palace was home to Dubrovnik’s ruler during his one-month mandate, the period when he was separated from his family to focus solely on matters of state. An inscription above the doorway to the meeting room says it all: “Forget your private concerns when working for the public.” Today, the magnificent Venetian-style palace is a cultural history museum.

This shop is more coral sanctuary than ordinary jewelry store. In addition to selling mind-blowing designer pieces, this is the place to learn all about the Adriatic coral: where it lives, and how it is sourced, harvested, and treated to become that deep-red stone used in jewelry. You can watch this magic will happen right before your eyes if you drop in here for a chat with a member of the impressively knowledgeable staff, who will tell you everything you want to know in the time you have available. Get inspired, and then check out the pieces, some of which feature typical Dubrovnik filigree work. Like unique works of art, each item comes with a certificate of authenticity.

On this episode of Unpacked, host Aislyn Greene travels to Charleston to explore the city’s world-class venues—from America’s first dedicated theater to a stunning apricot-colored concert hall—and meets the people bringing opera, dance, jazz, and theater to life in the Lowcountry.

This southern Italy itinerary sails between Venice and Rome exploring the Amalfi Coast, Sicily, and gems of Croatia and Montenegro.

In this week’s episode of Unpacked by AFAR, an AFAR editor—and digital nomad—explores the dark side of working remotely.

On this week’s episode of Travel Tales by AFAR: He’s a Croatian Irish radio guy who’s traveled the world. But in all his wanders, he’d never really given his Irish side a chance—until now.

Cruise the Adriatic and Aegean in style, visiting Montenegro, Albania, and Greece along the way.