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At the poolside restaurant Dar Moha, hungry travelers can dine on couscous with foie gras, lamb shank tagine with ras el hanout jus, and chakhchoukha, a caramelized apple tart spiced with saffron. Enjoy your meal at one of the candlelit tables while a musician plays the oud, a stringed instrument similar to a lute.

Hit the Fondouk Kaat Smen, otherwise known as the honey souk, to taste your way through as many as 17 different wild honeys for sale. Varieties range from familiar orange blossom and lavender to more unusual treats like caper and carob. If jujube is available, note that it’s favored for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, is considered to be particularly good for the liver and is locally consumed more as a medicine than something to spread on toast. People travel from afar to take this honey home, so the proprietor, Mr. Hicham, is used to packing it for air travel. Pop around the corner to the spice shop on Rue Bouhaj to stock up on freshly ground spices, too, like lemon-scented cumin, rich red paprika, ground ginger, sweet and earthy turmeric, and heady cinnamon.

The dyeing vats at Chouara—as well as at the city’s other tanneries—are among the Fes medina’s most iconic sights. The ancient craft of tanning and dyeing, in all its visceral authenticity (cow urine and pigeon poop are still key components in the process), plays out much as it always has. Chouara has been around since the 11th century. The dyes used in the tannery pits are natural: Blue comes from indigo; red, from poppy or paprika; yellow, from saffron, pomegranate, or even a mix of turmeric and mimosa flowers. The best vantage point for observation is from one of the roof terraces. Leather shops hawking everything from butter-soft leather babouches (iconic Moroccan backless slippers) and poufs, to copies of designer jackets and handbags. (That Hermès Birkin bag, or a facsimile of it, could finally be yours at a fraction of the price.) Although the guides around here are a tenacious lot, don your best smile, carry a posy of mint to hold beneath your nostrils, and settle in for a long chat with the shopkeepers to learn about fascinating process. Expect prices in the shops to vary wildly—much depends on your haggling prowess. A favorite store is the aptly named La Belle Vue de la Tannerie, off the main drag. The shop has sought out skilled tailors with European know-how to create items of better quality using all Moroccan hides, which results in better leather goods. The tailors can copy a motorcycle jacket for you in three or four hours from goat or lambskin, the softest of the hides.

If you’ve been to Fès, chances are you’ll be familiar with the original Clock. This is the second in owner Mike Richardson’s growing empire, this time housed in a converted schoolhouse in the Kasbah. Like all of his projects, a keen eye for line, color, and detail has turned the space from utilitarian into eye-popping as Richardson invites local street artists to bring life and color to the walls; junkyard finds and vintage Berber cushions provide the decor. It’s a popular hangout for both young Moroccans and those traveling through, with regular cultural events, including its famous storytelling nights that spotlight the best raconteurs from the Djemaa el Fna, translated by youngsters learning the craft, to traditional cooking schools to Gnawa musicians giving it their all in tribal trance for Sunday sunsets. But, of course, no visit would be complete without sampling Cafe Clock’s signature, legendary camel burger.

Contemporary touches meet Moroccan influences at this hilltop escape overlooking the medina. Homemade pastries greet you on arrival in the neutral-hued guest rooms, which balance floor-to-ceiling windows, sleek furnishings, and glass-walled marble baths with brightly patterned rugs, decorative vases, and Moorish lamps. The minimalist hammam is the highlight at the hotel’s Givenchy spa, while the Atlas mountain backdrop serves as eye candy beyond the chaise-lined infinity pool. Should you seek more spirited diversions, a stylish rooftop bar pulses with live music and DJ sets on the weekends. Sip champagne as the sun sets over Fes, then sample local delicacies like quail and almond tagine or roasted cockerel stuffed with raisins and semolina by candlelight at Amaraz restaurant.

When Mike Richardson exploded onto the fairly limited Fes dining scene in 2007, he took the medina by storm. Suddenly there was someplace where locals, tourists, and a handful of resident expats could convene. They came to view exhibitions by up-and-coming young artists, to hear Sunday sunset concerts featuring the likes of Houariyat—an all-female drumming band—and to tuck into the café’s legendary camel burger. All these attractions are still going strong, but Clock has expanded and begun offering excellent traditional-cooking classes, and holds movie nights in a screening room furnished with vintage cinema seats. It now also has a sibling in Marrakech and another soon to open in Chefchaouene, and a country cousin in the Scorpion House in Moulay Idriss, which you can book for private lunches. If all this doesn’t whet your appetite at least come at brunch for the best coffee and Berber eggs in town.

As one of the most innovative players on the Marrakech restaurant scene, Kamal Laftimi spearheads projects that are nothing if not showstoppers. This buzzy, green-on-green–tiled riad, bristling with courtyard banana trees, is a case in point. It’s a hip hangout by day for locals and expats who meet for coffees throughout the morning and pop into celebrated kaftan designer Norya ayroN’s little boutique, which occupies a small space on the first floor. By night, it sparkles with the light of hundreds of glittering candles while large extended families and cooing couples gather over Moroccan classics such as pigeon pastilla, vegetarian couscous, and chicken tagine with olives and raisins, as well as a handful of crowd-pleasing classics such as steak frites and burgers (no alcohol served).

With its carved arches, intricate tilework, and marble swaths, the scenic Palais Faraj feels like it’s from another time. Each room in the former palace is like a treasure chest of colorful rugs, stained glass details, and vibrant objets d’art; perhaps none are more enchanting than the library, with its arabesque and geometric patterns, though the lovely grounds, which are dotted with palm trees, rose bushes, and manicured hedges, are a close second thanks to their breathtaking views over the labyrinthine medina. Panoramic vistas also unfold from the hotel’s two restaurants, which serve Fassi specialties such as pigeon pastillas—try making them for yourself during an on-site cooking class. Other highlights include a spa with a traditional hammam and a courtyard pool for afternoon dips. As for the guest rooms, the hotel’s 25 suites are cloaked in the same elaborate tiling and carvings but stocked with mod cons like free minibars and Nespresso machines.

Described by writer Tahir Shah as the “greatest show on Earth,” no visit to Marrakech would be complete without a visit to the famous night market on the Djemaa el Fna. Arrive before sunset and park yourself at one of the various cafés with terraces overlooking the square to watch performers set up; then venture into the fray in search of adventure. Silk-clad acrobats, wide-eyed storytellers, sly snake charmers, jangling belly dancers, and capricious monkey handlers all emerge from the darkness, ringing the edge of the food stalls with their own special brand of entertainment. When you tire of the heckling, prowl the market in search of good things to eat: bite-size morsels of grilled lamb rubbed in cumin, sardines fried in chermoula, peppery snails, and sheep’s heads for the brave. Then nudge up alongside a family of locals at the table and settle in for the feast. If you’re nervous about going it alone, you can sign up for a food tour with Canadian tour guide and all-round good egg Mandy Sinclair of Tasting Marrakech; she’ll help you find the best stalls while introducing you to the secrets and delights of traditional Moroccan street food.

After a day of exploring and shopping, it’s a pleasure to pass through the wooden doors of this Relais & Chateaux hotel (near the Koutoubia Mosque and souks) and into a world of fragrant orange trees, poolside loungers, and fresh mint tea served on shaded terraces. Housed in a 1930s-era riad with three swimming pools, Villa des Orangers features 27 elegant rooms and suites, complete with decor like hand-painted tiles, latticed woodwork, arched doorways, and carved mantles as well as modern conveniences like air-conditioning, Nespresso machines, and smart TVs. As at all Relais & Chateaux properties, food is a priority here. Days begin with a generous breakfast of local cheeses and homemade jams, and end with a refined Mediterranean-meets-Moroccan dinner, which can be enjoyed al fresco or by one of the indoor fireplaces. Guests can also look forward to a five-room spa, known for its traditional Moroccan hamman ritual perfumed with roses and orange blossoms.

If the Djemaa el Fna is the epicenter of Marrakech, the Rahba Lakdima—otherwise known as the Place des Épices, or Spice Traders Square—is surely the epicenter of the medina itself. Bursting with rambunctious energy and high-voltage color, the market is lined on one side by mysterious herbalists and spice traders selling everything from snakeskins to rose petals to ras el hanout (the famous Moroccan spice blend), and by carpet sellers on the other. Venture to the latter’s lair around 4 p.m. when sellers come down from the mountain villages, and you’ll be treated to the spectacle of them plying their trade with the professionals. And in the middle, heaps of woven baskets and woolen skullcaps are piled high. There’s no better place to sit and watch this daily theater unfold than at the Café des Épices, the first of several that have now opened there, but still our favorite for excellent coffee, fresh salads, sandwiches, and tagines.

Part Roman bath, part Turkish hammam, part massage parlor—it all adds up to a restorative haven in the concrete jungle that is Manhattan. Aire is part of a chain that started in Seville, Spain, and every location is specially chosen to include an underground bath area comprised of stone and marble pools, treatment rooms, a hammam, and relaxation areas. The Tribeca building dates to 1883; all original architectural elements were restored and garnished with lanterns from Morocco plus marble from Spain. Old wood beams that could have been thrown away during construction were turned into beautiful benches and tables, and candles are the only source of light in most of the 16,000 square-foot space. A salt pool allows you to experience what many travel all the way to the Dead Sea for: effortless flotation. The Eucalyptus-scented hammam cleared out my head so I could leave with renewed vigor for the day’s writing projects. My massage, too, was worth every penny, though you can use the pools and steam room without being treated by a masseuse. And extendd hours (from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily) mean you can drop in even after a full day of work or sightseeing.

In the Palmerie neighborhood outside of town, ethno-botanist Gary Martin and his wife, interior designer Meryanne Loum-Martin, have created a fairytale oasis—whose name translates to “big garden”—with five houses, five pools, and beautiful green spaces spread over nine lush acres. Set in three different villas, the 24 uniquely designed, boho-chic rooms range from the Small (which can be tight and somewhat dark) to the more spacious Standard, Large, Garden, and Pavilion options, which feature plenty of light and perks like fireplaces, terraces, king beds, and artisan details.

When not lounging around one of the pools, guests can play a set on the clay tennis courts, wander around the botanical gardens, take a Moroccan cooking class with Chef Bahija, or explore the surrounding area by bike, vintage sidecar, or camel. Kids are more than welcome here and can look forward to such programming as calligraphy and magic classes, while adults can expect in-room massages and outdoor yoga classes. Breakfast is included in the room rate and, like all meals, can be enjoyed in various spaces around the hotel. Dinner is particularly magical when served underneath countless glowing lanterns.

Haj Mohamed has made his name both as one of Marrakech’s top antique dealers and, for over three decades, one of its top tour guides, with clients ranging from U.S. presidents to celebrities like Nicole Kidman and Brad Pitt. Both of his passions come together at his 11-room hotel, which he crafted with teams of skilled artisans and furnished himself. Set in an 18th-century riad, it features a traditional central courtyard and pool as well as warm, intimate guestrooms, complete with rich textiles, carved wooden doors, and cushy, low-slung seating. The same welcoming aesthetic can be found in the hotel’s common spaces, which include a small plunge pool, various pillow-laden lounges, a rooftop terrace, and a courtyard where guests can enjoy live music. Riad Kniza is also known for its gourmet Moroccan restaurant, which features just nine tables and requires reservations at least one day in advance, as the chef purchases ingredients fresh from the markets each morning.

In the heart of the medina, not far from the entry to the souks and the main square, two French brothers have transformed a historic riad into an intimate, contemporary Moroccan hideaway. Opening onto two internal courtyards—one of which has a swimming pool—are seven rooms and suites, each named for a local spice (think saffron, nutmeg, and turmeric) and decorated in jewel tones like deep orange and royal purple. All have standard conveniences like hair dryers, toiletries, and air-conditioning as well as complimentary Wi-Fi.

The hotel’s public spaces are separated into a garden section, featuring trickling fountains and lots of flowers, and an oasis section, which houses the pool and a traditional steam hammam. The riad also enjoys a higher position than its neighboring buildings, resulting in particularly great views from the rooftop terrace. Here, you can take in the Atlas Mountains from the plush lounge chairs (each topped with a straw hat for extra sun protection), the fireplace, or the romantic dining tables, where you can enjoy cocktails or a candlelit dinner. Adding to its private home feel, Riad l’Orangeraie provides guests with a local cell phone to use while in town. The hotel is also available to rent out in its entirety for the ultimate house party.