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  • 12 Ulica Frana Supila
    The Adriatic Luxury Hotels group offers a number of lodging options in the city. The landmark Excelsior is a short walk from Old Town and faces the Adriatic. A recent renovation updated the 158 large guest rooms with natural tones and dark-wood furnishings.—David Farley

    This appeared in the March/April 2018 issue.
  • 73 Juta St, Johannesburg, 2000, South Africa
    This semi-outdoor market on Juta Street in Joburg’s Braamfontein neighbourhood is fun fun fun. Eat oysters from Namibia, drink craft beer from South Africa, and devour paella, gelato, cheeses, chocolate...a food lover’s paradise! Open on Saturdays.
  • Ul. Julija Nepota 1, 21000, Split, Croatia
    This designer store stocks three popular Croatian women’s clothing and accessory brands: Chicks on Chic, Little Wonder and Dott. They also feature an ever-changing selection of quirky T-shirts with illustrations by local graphic designers. The shop’s open from April to November and again during the week before Christmas when they showcase a winter collection.
  • 26B Vukovarska ulica
    One of Dubrovnik’s oldest fortresses stands atop a 100-foot rock, guarding the western land entrance to the Old Town. Vigilantly turned toward Venice, it serves as a monumental tribute to Dubrovnik’s foresight, encapsulated in the motto of the Ragusan Republic engraved above the main entryway: “We do not sell our liberty for any gold in the world.” After entering the Old Town through the Pile Gate, walk down to Kolorina Bay and climb the stairs to the fortress. Because it’s far less busy than the city walls, the theatrical space offers a more intimate way to experience Dubrovnik’s history and charm, with breathtaking views to boot.
  • 21 Ulica kardinala Stepinca
    This large, modern hotel on the Lapad peninsula—about a 15-minute bus ride from the Old Town—overlooks the green hills above Lapad Bay, the Adriatic, and the beachfront. Completely refurbished in 2015, its lobby and lounge feature floor-to-ceiling windows, low furniture, and white decor, so nothing distracts from the views of the sparkling sea and sky. For even more gorgeous vistas, guests can go just below the hotel to the long pedestrian boulevard, which is filled with cafés and restaurants with plenty of outdoor seating. Guest rooms here are done up in restful tones of sisal and cream, with oversize charcoal sketches by a Croatian artist hung on wall panels behind the beds. The full-service spa has an indoor pool, Finnish sauna, and steam room, while a large deck features a bar and outdoor pool. Also on site is a restaurant with a wide terrace, and the top-floor Zenith Bar, which is best for sunset views.
  • Old Town, Cavtat, 20210, Cavtat, Croatia
    A visit to the picturesque town of Cavtat, south of Dubrovnik, must include a visit to the imposing mausoleum of the Račić family. The tomb, on a hill overlooking the town’s waterfront, is worth the shady climb. Built of bronze and white stone, the mausoleum, designed by Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović, is quite moving—especially the carved angel faces floating in the dome, waiting to guide the departed to heaven.
  • Ul. Svetog Dominika bb, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
    This extraordinary restaurant holds a prime position in Dubrovnik: It’s located on the city walls with wide-open views of the old town harbor. The expert staff puts a unique spin on Mediterranean cuisine and presents it in an almost artistic manner. Enjoy the kitchen’s take on a regional favorite like sea bass roasted in cabbage leaf and drizzled with dill-and-mint-infused oil, or an elaborate specialty like the slow-cooked veal cheeks with morel mushrooms and parsnip cream. With its extensive wine and liquor cellar, Restaurant 360° is the place for memorable special occasions. (Open for dinner only.)
  • Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46, 21000, Split, Croatia
    Ivan Meštrović was undoubtedly Croatia’s greatest sculptor. In 1952, he donated his magnificent summer residence located in the foothills of Marjan Forest Park to the state, along with many of his works. Located a mere 20-minute walk from Riva, the collection includes some 190 sculptures, along with 900 drawings, paintings and architectural plans.
  • Ul. Jurja Barakovića 5, 23000, Zadar, Croatia
    Zadar’s antiques market is located in the old town, on Jurja Barakovića Street, and open daily from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and then again from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. Military memorabilia from the days of Yugoslavia and earlier is popular, but that’s just a small part of the selection you’ll find for sale here. There are also many lovely glass pieces—goblets, beads and objets d’art.
  • Obala kneza Domagoja 8, 23000, Zadar, Croatia
    Water views and lobsters that you choose yourself from large aquariums are the lure at this seafood restaurant. This Zadar hotel and its restaurant have been in business since the 1960s (and yes, all that gilt looks a little dated). It gets high marks for fish straight from the sea and those Adriatic vistas, though the menu is on the pricey side. Gluten-free requests can be accommodated.
  • Čilipi, Croatia
    Set in the picturesque village of Komaji on the southern side of the Konavle valley, the winery overlooks vineyards, cypress groves and green fields. For four generations they’ve produced Plavac Mali (red) and Malvasija (white), and their latest efforts with merlot and cabernet sauvignon led to a collection of award-winning wines, including Pomet (wonderful with red meat), Tezoro (pair with Ston oysters) and Vilin Ples (the smoothest of cuvées).
  • 115 Křižíkova
    On Karlin’s impossible to pronounce Krizikova street (where the neighborhood’s foodie scene is most visible), this inviting wine bar was among the venues to solidify the foodie scene here. Led by oenophile and poet Bogdan Trojak, Veltlin offers natural wines (what they prefer to call authentic wines) from the former Austro-Hungarian empire with a diversity of blends from the Czech Republic’s Moravian and Bohemian regions to Croatia and Austria. You can check the menu online to see the day’s open bottles on offer. A local illustrator is behind the whimsical map of the former empire adorning one wall.
  • Gundulićeva poljana, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
    You could expect no less than to find a bustling fish market in a seaside town. Explore the isles of this market that houses fishermen and farmers alike and watch the morning’s catch being descaled right in front of you.
  • Ul. pod bedemom 3A, 23000, Zadar, Croatia
    In the old town, near the waterfront, you’ll find Zadar’s green, meat and fish markets. They face each other and are open in the mornings from 6 a.m. to 1 p.m. Fishermen supply fresh catches every day, and you’ll also find herbs, fruits, olive oil and cheese in the outdoor stalls, not to mention an indoor meat market and, off to one side, a spot to buy clothes, flip-flops and other cheap items. The markets settled in this large open space after buildings in the area were destroyed in World War II; today, the only fighting going on is among the bargain hunters.
  • Ul. Tomića stine 3, 21000, Split, Croatia
    Avoid the many touristy Dalmatian konobas (taverns) and head instead to Konoba Matejuška, tucked into a tight alley in the quaint Varoš neighborhood just off Riva. This rustic family-run tavern offers seafood-focused fare, including a daily catch cooked on the grill and delicious black cuttlefish risotto.