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Wandering Chef: Robbie Wilson in Singapore

Australia’s Double Wild Appeal: Big City to Outback

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A famed food critic follows the legendary xiao long bao on its global route from Taiwan to California.

Tourist-Free Thailand

Selamat Datang is a Bahasa Malaysia phrase that roughly translates to “Welcome”. Though I’ve lived in the US for decades, I was born and raised in Malaysia. I’ve not been back in years, opting instead to see the rest of the world. but someday soon, I will be going back and I’m very excited about that. Here are some wonderful images, thanks to AFAR’s intrepid travelers, of the special country I call home.

Off the coast of mainland Malaysia, Langkawi is an expanse of sandy beaches, forested mountains, and unique wildlife. Socialize with the residents or find solitude on the shores of a private island for the day. No matter what you do, it’ll be a trip to remember.

One traveler returns to Laos.

Where Southeast Asian beaches are concerned, the longer the journey, the more worthy the destination. It’s true. It may take a bit more effort to reach Cambodia’s beaches than many of those in Thailand or Malaysia, but choose wisely and all the buses, taxis, and tuktuks will soon be forgotten. Adventurers eager to get off the grid entirely will love Koh Ta Kiev. If lounging by your own personal infinity pool is more your speed, then you should invest your vacation budget in a villa at Song Saa’s private island resort.

A 15-minute walk from Langkawi’s beaches, the Temple Tree resort redefines “home-stay.” Guests sleep in authentic Malaysian heritage houses—including a century-old Chinese farmhouse, a colonial-style bungalow, and a 1940s-era Malay home—that were disassembled at their original sites and rebuilt on the hotel grounds. Now updated with modern amenities, the structures are appointed with local antiques such as money boxes and birdcages. Don’t miss the resort’s lagoon or its eponymous Chinese temple, built around a tree tied with colored ribbons. As a feel-good bonus, some profits from the hotel benefit owner Narelle McMurtrie’s animal rescue organization.

This appeared in the March/April 2010 issue.

Serene. That’s how I would describe the pool at the Lone Pine Hotel in Penang, Malaysia. This lovely boutique hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Penang, established in 1948. Recent renovations have made it into a charming ‘modern classic’ beach getaway. It’s under the management of the exclusive E and O Hotel. So you can expect beautiful rooms and good service, but at a more affordable price.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

Usually when a restaurant tries to offer two distinct menus, they fail miserably. Not at fatCUPID. The beefburger smothered in fried egg and the lemon butter snapper are just as tasty as the nyonya laksa or the sambal udang, with their juicy prawns. You can eat here and satisfy both your urge to eat local and your desire for home comfort food. The restaurant itself feels distinctly Malaysian, but also fresh and new. The restaurant is only a year old; I hope they keep it exactly the way it is. Delicious.

Located in the heart of Orlando’s Little Vietnam district, this casual eatery does Pan-Asian cuisine perfectly, with a spread of affordable, piping-hot dishes inspired by hawker-style street food. It’s hardly a new concept in a city known for great Asian restaurants, but Mamak does it exceptionally well with small plates like beef bulgogi, golden roti canai bread, Indonesian nasi goreng, and a spectacular version of Malaysian char kway teow noodles. Come with a group so you can order a little bit of everything—it’s the kind of place where sharing just two dishes is nothing short of sin.

Located on the international culinary corridor that is Buford Highway, Food Terminal brings the flavors of a Malaysian food market to Atlanta. Here, Amy Wong and Howie Ewe (who also own Sweet Hut Bakery and Café and Top Spice, a Thai and Malaysian chain) cook family recipes, drawing from memories of their homeland. Grab a seat in the modern space and choose from a menu of numbered noodle and rice dishes. The Grandma Wonton BBQ Pork Noodles—served with fried pork wontons, tender pork belly, egg noodles, bok choy, and a fried egg—are a favorite, but the Hainanese chicken and roti canai are also popular.