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When Mike Richardson exploded onto the fairly limited Fes dining scene in 2007, he took the medina by storm. Suddenly there was someplace where locals, tourists, and a handful of resident expats could convene. They came to view exhibitions by up-and-coming young artists, to hear Sunday sunset concerts featuring the likes of Houariyat—an all-female drumming band—and to tuck into the café’s legendary camel burger. All these attractions are still going strong, but Clock has expanded and begun offering excellent traditional-cooking classes, and holds movie nights in a screening room furnished with vintage cinema seats. It now also has a sibling in Marrakech and another soon to open in Chefchaouene, and a country cousin in the Scorpion House in Moulay Idriss, which you can book for private lunches. If all this doesn’t whet your appetite at least come at brunch for the best coffee and Berber eggs in town.

With its carved arches, intricate tilework, and marble swaths, the scenic Palais Faraj feels like it’s from another time. Each room in the former palace is like a treasure chest of colorful rugs, stained glass details, and vibrant objets d’art; perhaps none are more enchanting than the library, with its arabesque and geometric patterns, though the lovely grounds, which are dotted with palm trees, rose bushes, and manicured hedges, are a close second thanks to their breathtaking views over the labyrinthine medina. Panoramic vistas also unfold from the hotel’s two restaurants, which serve Fassi specialties such as pigeon pastillas—try making them for yourself during an on-site cooking class. Other highlights include a spa with a traditional hammam and a courtyard pool for afternoon dips. As for the guest rooms, the hotel’s 25 suites are cloaked in the same elaborate tiling and carvings but stocked with mod cons like free minibars and Nespresso machines.

In 1923, the artist Jacques Majorelle acquired a four-acre plot of land just outside the center of Marrakech. Inspired by numerous travels around the country to paint scenes of village life, and funded by painting more illustrious portraits such as that of Pasha Thami el Glaoui, Majorelle was able to build a small studio and house, with enough land to indulge his other passion: ethnobotany. As his career grew, he added a splendid villa, and the garden took on a life of its own, featuring innumerable exotic species from around the world; he added pools and fountains, and, of course, the now iconic, eye-popping Majorelle blue that was lavished on the architecture. The property became so expensive to maintain that the artist was forced to open it to the public until his death in Paris in 1962. The garden gradually fell into a state of disrepair and was slated for development by a hotel chain until French designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé happened upon it during one of their many trips to the Red City. In 1980, they decided to buy it and restore it to its former glory, adding irrigation and doubling the number of plants and gardeners to look after it. They moved into the villa and set about transforming other buildings into what is now the legendary Berber Museum and a boutique. The latter is especially noteworthy for creative director Stephen di Renza’s commitment to reflecting Majorelle’s lesser-known passion for the decorative arts (which is manifest in the exquisite artisanal pieces, leather goods, and jewelry) and Saint Laurent’s inspired use of traditional Moroccan dress, such as the kaftan and djellaba, in haute couture fashion.

When in Marrakech it’s very difficult to resist the urge to shop, especially when it comes to carpets and textiles; the city probably has the best selection in all of Morocco. If you have nerves of steel, then the carpet souk on the Rahba Lakdima is a good place to start, but be warned that the traders in these parts are rapacious. If you prefer a rather less intense experience, head for Soufiane’s flagship store near Dar el Bacha, where you can view your carpets in the serene environment of a tranquil riad and then retire to the very sexy green-tiled rooftop for a glass of mint tea. For increasingly popular supersize Tuareg reed-and-leather mats, go to Kulchi (by appointment only), which has an extraordinary collection from the owner’s travels through the south. For gorgeous cotton bed linens and towels trimmed with delicate Marrakchi embroidery in muted shades—think aubergine, dove gray, and charcoal—Valerie Barkowsi’s (next door to Mustapha Blaoui) is the place to head.

Part Roman bath, part Turkish hammam, part massage parlor—it all adds up to a restorative haven in the concrete jungle that is Manhattan. Aire is part of a chain that started in Seville, Spain, and every location is specially chosen to include an underground bath area comprised of stone and marble pools, treatment rooms, a hammam, and relaxation areas. The Tribeca building dates to 1883; all original architectural elements were restored and garnished with lanterns from Morocco plus marble from Spain. Old wood beams that could have been thrown away during construction were turned into beautiful benches and tables, and candles are the only source of light in most of the 16,000 square-foot space. A salt pool allows you to experience what many travel all the way to the Dead Sea for: effortless flotation. The Eucalyptus-scented hammam cleared out my head so I could leave with renewed vigor for the day’s writing projects. My massage, too, was worth every penny, though you can use the pools and steam room without being treated by a masseuse. And extendd hours (from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily) mean you can drop in even after a full day of work or sightseeing.

In the heart of the medina, not far from the entry to the souks and the main square, two French brothers have transformed a historic riad into an intimate, contemporary Moroccan hideaway. Opening onto two internal courtyards—one of which has a swimming pool—are seven rooms and suites, each named for a local spice (think saffron, nutmeg, and turmeric) and decorated in jewel tones like deep orange and royal purple. All have standard conveniences like hair dryers, toiletries, and air-conditioning as well as complimentary Wi-Fi.

The hotel’s public spaces are separated into a garden section, featuring trickling fountains and lots of flowers, and an oasis section, which houses the pool and a traditional steam hammam. The riad also enjoys a higher position than its neighboring buildings, resulting in particularly great views from the rooftop terrace. Here, you can take in the Atlas Mountains from the plush lounge chairs (each topped with a straw hat for extra sun protection), the fireplace, or the romantic dining tables, where you can enjoy cocktails or a candlelit dinner. Adding to its private home feel, Riad l’Orangeraie provides guests with a local cell phone to use while in town. The hotel is also available to rent out in its entirety for the ultimate house party.

There are many things to love about staying at La Tangerina, but the panoramic views from the roof terrace are at the top of my list. In this photo, the Strait of Gibraltar is visible under a cloudy sky. Standing at this viewpoint, if you turn a little to the right, you’ll see the busy Port of Tangier and endless beaches. Turn a bit further to the right, and you’ll enjoy a spectacular multilayer vista, with the White City’s historic Kasbah in the forefront, followed by an array of more modern buildings, with the Rif Mountains as a distant backdrop. The hotel is perfectly located at the highest point on the Kasbah and has been beautifully restored and decorated. We enjoyed large breakfasts and a quiet retreat from the hustle and bustle of the medina.

Gonçalo Alves and his wife, Marta Fonseca, spent eight years turning an abandoned chicken farm on Portugal’s wild Costa de Prata into their dream retreat. “We wanted a big house to share with people,” says Alves. Their hotel, located a 45-minute drive north of Lisbon, is a whimsical escape with a hippie vibe. Each night Alves and Fonseca invite guests to join them for wine and traditional folk music around a bonfire. The architecture is modern, but the interiors have a fashionable flea-market feel. Inside the 10 rooms and four villas you’ll find bedding, rugs, and light fixtures from Morocco and India, driftwood-frame beds, and fireplaces that hang from the ceiling. Doubles from $345. 351/2-6193- 6340. This appeared in the October 2013 issue.

For those who can’t decide between staying in a historic, riad-style inn in Marrakech’s old town or a larger resort in modern Ville Nouvelle, this boutique charmer provides the perfect compromise. Located in the leafy, upscale Hivernage neighborhood (a short taxi ride from both the medina and the French quarter), Dar Rhizlane occupies an Art Deco-era villa, where 20 rooms share space with intimate lounges, a fireplace-equipped library bar, and a verandah with views of the gardens and fountains. Named after exotic scents, guestrooms feature handpicked furnishings, traditional tilework, ornate bathrooms, and flattering mood lighting as well as a fireplace and some type of outdoor space. Also on-site is a pool ringed with loungers (open year-round and heated in the winter) and a small spa with a hammam (located in the main villa).

In addition to overnight guests, the hotel draws a regular crowd for its cuisine. Le Minzeh serves light fare on a raised platform overlooking the pool; Le Jardin offers seasonal, Mediterranean-inspired dishes along with garden views; and the gourmet Le Mimouna—considered one of the best restaurants in town—features a Moroccan-French menu and glam setting. Also available are cooking classes, which start with a stroll through a local market, as well as services like in-room dining, on-site parking, and a 24-hour reception, which bring some of those “big hotel” touches to what otherwise feels like a wealthy friend’s estate.

An oasis so idyllic, you might first think it’s a mirage, Hotel Fellah is an eight-acre retreat that fuses Moroccan culture with a hipster design aesthetic and a farm-to-table ethos. Locals, artists in residence, and guests mingle in the art center and library, and at the educational farm, kids groom donkeys, milk goats or collect eggs that are sold in neighboring villages. The small café opposite the swimming pool is run by Touco, a resident of nearby Tassoultante village. Don’t miss his tagine, or—even better—pick ingredients from the garden and ask him to show you how to make it.

Spa lovers will enjoy spending a morning or afternoon getting acquainted with traditional Moroccan bathing and beauty treatments at a hammam. Traditionally, these public bathhouses and steam rooms were where both men and women would go for their weekly ablutions: to be first enveloped in olive oil–based soap infused with herbs, then exfoliated with a specially designed mitt, and finally slathered in a full-body clay mask mixed with rose water (hair washing optional). And while this is still an important part of the local culture, ultra-luxurious variations have crept in, especially at places such as the Royal Mansour, where you can bask in sensational interiors before forking out $350 for a hammam and massage fit for a king. The pool at La Mamounia’s glamorous hammam is one of the highlights, so allow plenty of time to make use of it before indulging in their luxury Evasion treatment, which includes an orange-infused olive oil scrub and amber-honey facial exfoliation for $130. If you want to try something a bit more local that still feels like a treat—at a fraction of the cost of the above—head for the Bains de Marrakech, which offers great value for what you get. A 45-minute hammam, including a ghassoul clay body wrap costs $24. Understandably, it gets extremely busy, so book ahead.

The plaza of Place Seffarine, dominated by the entrance to the al-Qarawiyin Library and a sturdy old tree, is one of the most pleasing areas in Fes. As you approach, you’ll hear the sound of the copper beaters tap, tap, tapping away. It’s well worth perusing the stalls to find high-quality cookware to take home, such as pixie pans for boiling milk for your coffee, copper tagines and teapots, and prettily etched bowls for use in the hammam. Stop at the café for seriously strong coffee and to watch the world go by, or scoot around the corner onto Derb Chouara for hot, sweet mint tea spiked with various other healing herbs at a hole-in-the-wall where you’ll rub shoulders with local craftspeople taking a break from their labors.

Hidden behind unassuming doors, this 17th-century palace provides respite from the frenetic bustle of the medina without sacrificing sense of place. The property hits all the right Moroccan style notes: there’s plenty of arabesque-patterned tiling and a lush courtyard complete with tinkling fountain and fragrant citrus trees. But the classic interiors also have contemporary flair—see the chrome lamps, cement-hued tadelakt baths, and leather furnishings in the eight guest rooms, or the panoramic rooftop and on-site restaurant, which not only serves local Fassi fare but also offers free cooking classes that begin with a trip to the market. For an alternate take on tradition, guests head to the hotel’s candlelit Carrara marble hammam, which uses indigenous ingredients like ghassoul clay from the Atlas Mountains, black-olive soap, and argan oil for its soothing pamper sessions.

Wandering around Rabat, trying to get to the waterfront, we stumbled upon this cemetery which turned out to be enormous and mysterious, with tombstones literally stacked upon one another and tumbling all the way down to the sea. Tens of thousands of beautifully engraved tombstones. I’d never seen anything like it before.

The great Almohad sultan, Moulay Ismail made Meknes his imperial capital and it is there that he is entombed. Although his mausoleum lies stone’s throw from Place El-Hedim and Bab al-Mansour, it’s not easy to find because it’s not marked. You will have to ask for help. When you enter in the mausoleum, you step inside a small entry room, painted buttercup yellow with a small fountain marking the center of the room. The entry room leads to the first of several interconnected open aired courtyards, each of which is also painted buttercup yellow. Surrounded in all directions by bright yellow walls, it’s hard to believe you’re actually in a mausoleum. The last courtyard fronts the tomb room and unless you’re a Muslim, you cannot enter. But not to be disappointed, the ante room will simply take your breath away. It soars up several stories high with a row of windows at the top that lets the sunlight filter in. Intricately carved plaster and delicately patterned zellij tiles adorn the walls. In the center of the floor is a small fountain collared by the eight pointed star that is classic to Moroccan design. There is perfect symmetry in all the design elements. It’s just a magnificent space!